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brake system locking up
Ken - 17/6/08 at 09:20 AM

Help,

I have ecsort mii drums on the rear cortina discs on the front, mii escort duel circuit master cylinder. the drum cylinder. disc brakes and tobing is all new, the master cylinder has new seals. However the system locks up with the brake pedal rock hard.
Does anyone have any idea's as to why?


Mr Whippy - 17/6/08 at 09:30 AM

Slacken of the shoes a bit more at the back, plus if your brake hoses are old they may have collapsed inside and are acting like a valve preventing the fluid releasing pressure. Check if the drums are hot, if so slacken them off, if that’s not fixing it then it’s the hoses.


Bob C - 17/6/08 at 09:50 AM

Such "lockup" is often caused by the master cylinder plunger not coming back out all the way when the brake pedal is released. Make sure you've got this adjustment right (brake pedal backstop and clevis/plunger rod thing length)
Bob


wilkingj - 17/6/08 at 10:07 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Bob C
Such "lockup" is often caused by the master cylinder plunger not coming back out all the way when the brake pedal is released. Make sure you've got this adjustment right (brake pedal backstop and clevis/plunger rod thing length)
Bob


Yep I have had this on my Land Rover. ie not enough slack in the m/Cylinder push rod.
A common problem.


britishtrident - 17/6/08 at 10:48 AM

By locking up you mean binding to the point of locking the the wheel solid.

As already sugested this is Master Cylinder piston movement problem, something is stopping it returning fully, this effectively blocks off the fluid passage to the resevoir causes hydraulic lock as the brakes warm up and the fulid expands.

A apart from the pedal not having enough free movement to allow it to return fully this problem is often caused by the mushroom pedal push rod fouling on the end stop washer and not allowing the piston to come fully off.

As already sugested try shortening the push rod or adjusting the pedal stop to allow the pedal to come further back ie "off"

If the that dosen't work look at the mushroom and washer on the end of the cylinder, sometimes careful work with a grinder and or using a thinner washer with a very slightly bigger hole is enough to do the trick.


The best solution is to use a proper non-servo tandem master cylinder that come complete with pushrod than adapt a cylinder designed for use with a servo.



[Edited on 17/6/08 by britishtrident]


02GF74 - 17/6/08 at 02:21 PM

i think I am right in that there should be a return spring on the pedal too.


ReMan - 17/6/08 at 10:30 PM

Probably not, to prevent it pulling the pushrod out of the cylinder.
BTW great avatar!


britishtrident - 18/6/08 at 11:53 AM

quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Probably not, to prevent it pulling the pushrod out of the cylinder.
BTW great avatar!



The push rod shouldn't be able to come out the cylinder, the end of the cylinder should have a washer and circlip that prevent the mushroom head end of the pushrod coming out. --- that one of the main reasons why it is important to use a master cylinder designed for use without a servo. Rescued attachment 173.jpg
Rescued attachment 173.jpg


britishtrident - 18/6/08 at 11:54 AM

quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
i think I am right in that there should be a return spring on the pedal too.


Yes it should pull the push rod back.