Hi All.

Theoretically speaking, do we think it's possible to reduce the height of a 2 post lift?

I'm wondering that since my garage roof is only 1.92 mts high and slopes up to 2.02 mts the other side,
if a two poster could be cut to fit?

Possibly cut the width as well as it's only 2.3 mts wide.

I assume that they are normally a bit bigger than this.


I realize that this would limit the height I could raise the car but it would get it up to a better work level.
It would save my poor old back no end when I do all that pre-IVA polishing.

Cheers,
Paul G

Wouldn't you be better off with a scissor lift if you can get one Paul? Could be sunk into the floor so it's level and wouldn't take up any space , also you could limit the raised height to miss your roof . If you have to shortening a 2 poster it would be possible with a chain type if you can machine the lifting screws and cut off the top plate from the pillars and rewelding. Not sure insurance company would like it though?

quote:

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Originally posted by rusty nuts
Wouldn't you be better off with a scissor lift if you can get one Paul? Could be sunk into the floor so it's level and wouldn't take up any space , also you could limit the raised height to miss your roof . If you have to shortening a 2 poster it would be possible with a chain type if you can machine the lifting screws and cut off the top plate from the pillars and rewelding. Not sure insurance company would like it though?

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Paul, having seen some of your work, I am pretty sure that modifying a two poster would not be beyond you. :-) Cheers Ray

Thanks for the vote of confidence Ray.

Having seen the standard of welding on a 2t engine hoist that I borrowed once
I haven't much to live up to.

Cheers,
Paul G

The chain types normally have the motor at the top of the column with a belt and pulley system driving a threaded (probably Acme) shaft that has a bearing top and bottom and a carriage with arms attached which rises or lowers when the shaft turns . At the bottom of the column there is a sprocket driving a chain which in turn drives a sprocket on the none motor column which also has a carriage . Both carriages should rise at the same rate and be level with each other. The lifting nuts tend to wear if not looked after and should be inspected regularly as should the safety nuts. Some variations use a horizontal shaft with bevel gears instead of a chain and some use hydraulics . Not a great fan of the hydraulic type due to some not lifting evenly. I use to have a semi portable lift that would go right under the car and would lift to about 6feet , not that I needed it to go that high, something like that may suit you?

A lift could be shortend but not easy. The biggest headache i could see would be shortening the screws as they are the tallest part of the lift (on mine anyway). You would need someone with a bloody big lathe to remachine the ends to refit the drive pulleys or sprockets depending on which end you cut. Then you would need to move the upper limit switch and skew switch lower down the post.
reducing the width would be an easier task just cut n shut the base with a bit of welding and shorten the drive chain.
My lift btw is a werther 255 screw lift.

Cheers Mel,

and

Cheers Fazerruss.

Both very useful posts.

I have the use of a big lathe so any turning isn't a problem.
I have Google'd the Werther 255 and downloaded a pic.

Thanks again,
Paul G

A guy near me has a 4 post lift in his garage at home that has been sunk into the floor to give him the clearance from the roof.
this might be the answer rather than changing the machine to suit.

quote:

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Originally posted by macc man
A guy near me has a 4 post lift in his garage at home that has been sunk into the floor to give him the clearance from the roof.
this might be the answer rather than changing the machine to suit.

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You don't need to shorten the lift just move the upper limit switch down.

quote:

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Originally posted by britishtrident
You don't need to shorten the lift just move the upper limit switch down.

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I am sure that the thought has crossed your mind, but,...

how about raising the roof?

Might not be an option, but, just a thought?

Think about it

Vertical height required = lift height + the height of the vehicle and for conventional ramp, even for a Seven style car that is going to be a minimum of 3000mm, for a tintop 40000mm

Lowest you will find are the old Laycock Coronation 4 post chain drive lifts they lift the underside of the car to about 1.7 m off the deck so the roof height required is about 2.5 m for a locost 3.5 for a tintop.

Even the Corination lift was a a paine in the neck to use even for my 5ft 8" --- to make ours usable we had to dig a shallow (18" pit below the ramp.

if you buy the cheap hydraulic lifts off ebay all you have to do is cut the channels down that the hydraulics run in,alot of work but can be down with a few slitting discs. and take a few links out of the chains to the size you need. the pain in the ass part is getting the wires shortened you need to get the ends crimped back on. because when you cut the old ones off you cant reuse them.
and if you use a brace on the top to stop them folding in with the weight and make some support legs you dont even need to bolt them down
adam

oh and make sure you put the limit switch back in the right place or when you take the ramps up you will smash it off lol.

[Edited on 20/7/11 by oadamo]

Get something like this and sink into the ground

Hydraulic Table Cart 500kg | eBay

quote:

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Originally posted by mark chandler
Get something like this and sink into the ground

Hydraulic Table Cart 500kg | eBay

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quote:

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Originally posted by oadamo
if you buy the cheap hydraulic lifts off ebay all you have to do is cut the channels down that the hydraulics run in,alot of work but can be down with a few slitting discs. and take a few links out of the chains to the size you need. the pain in the ass part is getting the wires shortened you need to get the ends crimped back on. because when you cut the old ones off you cant reuse them.
and if you use a brace on the top to stop them folding in with the weight and make some support legs you dont even need to bolt them down
adam

oh and make sure you put the limit switch back in the right place or when you take the ramps up you will smash it off lol.

[Edited on 20/7/11 by oadamo]

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quote:

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Originally posted by HowardB
I am sure that the thought has crossed your mind, but,...

how about raising the roof?

Might not be an option, but, just a thought?

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High lift pallet truck have been used by Locosters before they are quite cheap and can be found up to 1.5 ton capcity, however you will need to lift exactly under cg and will need 4 tall stands for safe working.

quote:

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Originally posted by 907

quote:

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Originally posted by HowardB
I am sure that the thought has crossed your mind, but,...

how about raising the roof?

Might not be an option, but, just a thought?

---

Hi Howard,

I did think of two vetical ducts, like chimneys, for the lift posts to sit inside.

I would still have to alter the width though.


Cheers,
Paul G

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A pal of mine has a pit and a hydraulic lift.
One of the timbers over the pit is replaced with a steel channel, the two rams are in the pit.
In the pit there is a hydraulic valve block and tank and a power steering pump powered by a single phase motor.

All of this stuff is wombled.

You park the lifting point of the car over the steel channel, fire up the motor, pull the lever and the car gets lifted to as much as you want.
Two channels and four rams would be a small addition.

When not in use, it takes up zero floor space and you couldn't even trip on it if you wanted to.

Wombling these things together is perfectly possible.

I'll video it some time and post a link.

Why don't get something like this

AIR OPERATED CAR RAMP WAIST HEIGHT | eBay

I would love one but its a extra cost. If you search 'car scissor lift' on google it brings lots of options.

We had a bespoke one built for a exhibition we designed/built. It was compressed air powered by a 25l silent aircompressor. Went up and down almost silently. Really cool. Some of you guys might have seen it at the Gadget Show. It had a VW Polo Bluemotion going up and down on it.

[Edited on 21/7/11 by Irony]

Hi All. Thanks for all the replies so far.


The pallet truck needs the room to manoeuvre it under the car so you need a garage a lot wider than the car.

I see the disadvantages of the pallet truck, the scissor lift, and the scissor ramp as twofold. Firstly, they block
working on the underside of the car to a greater or lesser degree, and secondly, what do you do with them
if you need the floor space for another job?

I keep coming back to a two post lift, with the posts mounted "in the walls" and the arms folded back against
the walls when not in use.
In the top pic below there's nothing on the underside of that car that you can't get to.
The problem is in the second pic. Those dims don't match my garage and a bit of cut & shut would be needed.
Maybe easier, for me anyway, than digging up the concrete floor to create a sunken area.
There are several items in that floor that I wouldn't want to have to get out. The rear end of a Sierra for one.

Cheers everyone,
Paul G


2 post lift dims

Lot of money for at most 1 metre clear of the deck --- invest in a couple of high lift jacks and high stands

http://www.cjautos.org.uk/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/cjautos?opendocument&part=7




[Edited on 21/7/11 by stevebubs]

Thanks for the post Steve.

The lift in the first pic has a minimum height of 125mm. My Locost wouldn't go over that.

The floor of my garage is 150mm of concrete (plus), with a self leveling hard layer on top.
I would be very reluctant to mess with that so I still prefer the two post option.


As for the second, those things look frightening. I know they work, safe and all that,
but I wouldn't feel comfortable using one.


There's a chap lives near me that runs wedding cars, and has a 2 post lift.
He says I can go and look at it if I want. That will give me a much better idea
of what's involved in shortening one.

Cheers,
Paul G

quote:

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Originally posted by 907
The floor of my garage is 150mm of concrete (plus), with a self leveling hard layer on top.
I would be very reluctant to mess with that so I still prefer the two post option.

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I've been working "on site" for the last 3 days at an agricultual engineers and talking to the owner
about this project, hoping to glean info should I go for a hydraulic jobbie.

He told me that Danny, (a general builder) that lives 200mts away took one out of a garage that had a
small fire in their office, an insurance job, "new for old".

Lunch time, phoned him and went for a look.

Now bearing in mind it was stood up in the corner of a barn, surrounded by all manner of other stuff
I climbed over with an LED torch and had a look.

Damage as far as I could see was confined to the plastic electrical switch box which had sagged out of shape
and the plastic cover on the end of the motor. Since it's 3 phase and I would want to convert to single phase
stuff I didn't see this as a huge problem. The plastic oil tank just below the switch gear has a 50mm hole
melted in it jut above the max level.

The lift looks new. No scratches in the paint, the moving parts had no signs of wear, nice crisp edges to cogs
and racks etc, and a slightly blistered sticker on the side near the motor says SWL 3500kg.

There's a sticker still readable on the electric box that says "SUN" but this could be just the controls.
(When Googled this came up as part of Snap On.)

He wants £400 for it. A bargin, possibly?


It's painted mid grey, a ram in each post I assume as the floor joiner just has 2 pipes (about 10mm) run through it.
The rams are covered but a toothed rack is visable inside the upper part of the posts.

Any ideas? Make? Value? Er, fixable / convertable?

Cheers,
Paul G

p.s.

DH2. I have noted the possible need for concrete mods. Thanks.

Hi Paul.

googled sun garage equipment and found these guys that sell Sun lift parts, £400 if not worn is good price. If panel contents are useable converting to 240v should be easy, motor might be expensive,

I would go to local rewind company to make sure you get a motor that is a direct replacement, ie HP, Torque, RPM .

Nice alloy control panel would be good advert for your skills.

http://www.jhmbuttco.com/acatalog/Shop_Lifts__Sun__693.html

[Edited on 29/7/11 by Myke 2463]

Thanks for that Mike. ^^^

Cheers
Paul G

Have been reading this topic before. And I'm sure a 2 post can be shortened, although it might be a lot of work, with little margin for error. And that got me thinking outside the box. Or really... making the box bigger.

Not having seen your garage, but most garages simply have a wood roof structure with some waterproof layer on top. Seeing your roof is nearly flat I'd assume it's tar based (can't recall what you guys call it). If so then I think it would be about an afternoons work with really basic building technology to create a raised section to fit your 2 poster.

An additional benefit would be that you could simply fit another 2 poster 'off the shelve' might the original one die on you.

Just my 2 cents.

Hi JF.

Garage number 1 has an apex roof. I built number 2 afterwards and has gentle sloping roof.
There is a stud & ply wall that seperates the two with a doorway between them. The idea is
to have a dirty side (apex) for grinding & welding etc and a clean side (slope) to keep and
work on the car.

The roof is made from flat galv sheet that I folded to give it strength.
There's a row of bricks on the edge of the concrete floor, a damp proof membrain, and wood
on top of that. Vertical studs, then the frame clad with 10mm ply. The wood was pallets from work.

My plan is to remove 3 or 4 bricks and 1 stud and recess the lift posts into the wall to give me
maximum space. (Red line in pic) I may have to under pin the floor for the outside post.
The red X's in the other pic shows where they will be under the roof. (taken from landing window)

I hope you understand my ramblings.

Cheers,
Paul G


possible lift position

I'd really consider raising the roof if it were mine. Either raising it entirely to the top height of your 'dirty' garage. Or just a small section for the lift. Raising it entirely will be more work. But will let you raise the cars higher if you need it. And will give you a fair bit of storage space aswell. Which is always handy, atleast if you don't chuck it full of stuff you'll never use again

You could probably simply reuse the current roof sheets. But would need some timber and some material to close up the sides. And well ok doing the entire roof will be more then an afternoons work. But should be doable in a few days, certainly if you can get a few helpers around, and have the materials ready to go.

Not saying it would be cheaper then shortening a 2 poster. But I think it will be easier and give a much better result.

Reducing the width of a lift doesn't seem to difficult though. Most seem to have 2 hydraulic connections and a cable for synchronisation. Which is quite hard to achieve with hydraulics alone, so I do suspect the 2 poster you looked at should have a cable link down there somewhere. And I suspect that the toothed rack is for synchronisation and or to lock. As a lift should never alone depend on hydraulics, if it springs a leak there should always be some mechanical backup.

So to shorten them you'll probably will have to shorten the rams, racks, cables, and posts themselves. Making sure the cut off switch gets back in where it should. As well as making sure the mechanical locks are reset properly. That does seem like a lot more work to me if I'm honest. Or atleast harder to get right then lifting your roof up. Which in turn gives you much more practical use of your lift.

That is certainly an idea JF.

I had a measure up tonight and the existing apex is 550mm high, so could probably gain 475 ish.


see pic. Sorry for the mess. The wife's been sorting out the sweet peas.


I think the next step is to get the lift home and run a tape measure over it.

Cheers,
Paul G


height gain

Don't worry about the mess, I see worse on a daily basis at work. Both in the shop itself as what comes in to be fixed.

Let us know how you get on. I hope it all works out.

A customer of mine showed me some plans from the internet to make a 4 post lift using high lift (jackall) style jacks i will try and contact him for the link, it looked pretty simple to build and it could be adapted to size 7
keith

http://www.hamercarlift.com/
try the above link
keith

quote:

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Originally posted by HowardB
I am sure that the thought has crossed your mind, but,...

how about raising the roof?

Might not be an option, but, just a thought?

---

Well, I picked it up today; although that may be a bad choice of words.

Big heavy bu**ers aren't they.

Good job the bloke had a fork lift.



Do you ever get the feeling you've bit off more than you can chew?

Yours,
Worried.

Thanks for all the replies btw.

I had all this when i was looking for a 2 post lift,they were all to tall or to wide, there is also single post lifts which may have worked for you but they are not cheap, i ended up luckliy with a 240volt 2 post lift which was a liitle wide but got my mate who`s a welder to make it narrower, made a great job then i had to shorten the chain wasn`t too bad, best bit of kit i have ever bought, best of luck getting it sorted it`ll be worth it.

Worked in a garage few years ago.was only the height of normal single garge shall we say had a two post lift with a half depth pit in it as well.
worked really well as one person could do the underside work at a normal height whilst the other guy did the brake work at his normal height.had a sensor fitted to the roof so that if beam got cut would shut power to ramp (ie bonnent left up)

all we had to do was every now and then take ramp to the top (no car ) so that the motors on each post could keep in sink.

Camera's playing up at the moment Paul. I tried to take some pictures of our scissor lift at work on Thursday , will try to borrow the other halfs during the week .