hi all im looking at a robin hood i have heard the not nice to build b4 but what they like once done any one here running pref with pinto i had a xfow locost b4 which i had converted to bec but i want a cec this time. they seem to be a good price to
i heard thay are basic and rubbish
edit im drunk
[Edited on 31/7/09 by tomgregory2000]
got to be better than a locost by that i mean one like i had not a race spec one. i mean one built in a garage by some who doing for fun rather than
knows how to weld and jig it all right.
[Edited on 093131p://5723 by tjoh84]
The main problem with them is that they are quite heavy.
If you just want a comfy open top tourer and you are happy with it just being a bit faster than most regular cars then why not - they are quite
cheap.
If you want a track tool then look elsewhere .......
Cheers
Mark
poss odd track day but more road use
Agree with mookaloid re heavyer than most others. If you are having a seriously look at them look for the 2b plus. This has double front wishbones at
the front as apposed to macpherson struts which are poo. For an opinion from the owners themselves post one rhocar for their views.
http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?act=idx
As in life you get what you pay for. They are comfy tourers but not overly fast off the mark.
Good luck
Nige
[Edited on 31/7/09 by cryoman1965]
As already mentioned the 2B is a heavy tourer, the latest Zero is lighter and maybe ok on the track, mine is one of the first Sierra based monoque
chassis and was built to race in hill climbing events.
Mike
sorry dont get wish bone bit how caan i tell from a pic
The front shocks will be at approx 60degree angle , the sliding pillocks are almost vertical , hope that helps.
Have a look Here under model identification .
Mike
[Edited on 31-7-2009 by miikae]
From personal experience, I wouldn't touch another. Nothing fits as it should and everything will be modified to sort of fit. The 2b chassis is
made of heavy not very good grade stainless steel and weighs more than titanic. It also uses the whole rear sub frame from the sierra which also
weighs half of titanic and that is why there is a bulge infront of the rear arches as the sub frame is wider than the car.
Keep your money in your pocket and look for something better with independant double wishbone suspension allround, don't buy it just because the
price is right you'll spend more on it putting it right/changing everything than if you bought a better car in the first place.
My 2p worth.
dont bother .
your money is better spent elsewhere
the shiteiest of shite
beeen there done it could'nt do a thingwithit
only one way to find out for yourself
but i wouldn't. i've bought stuff from them before. not the best quality i'd seen
The new Zero looks to be a different story to their previous (and average/rubbish) models. It seems to be almost a clone of the Haynes roadster. The
kits also come with a fair bit of actual kit as well, pedal box, rack, wishbones, etc as compared to other kits I've seen at equivalent prices
(particularly in Australia). Please correct me if i'm wrong as I'm looking at buying one for rego here in OZ!
Cheers
Eddy
Scrap yard kits don't waste money you will regret it
I DID
quote:
Originally posted by skippad
the shiteiest of shite
beeen there done it could'nt do a thingwithit![]()
Come to an SG7 do at Baldock (not far from you) The club is based on a Robin Hood area group. They are very friendly and would show you around theirs. Alternatively a Robin Hood group meets at Tilbrook near Kimbolton.
They are heavy due to reasons already mentioned. But they are comfier than most other sevens, if you are bothered about that, but you pay for it in
the handling dept.
You can make them look nice but they take a lot of work to get them to what is in my opinion a presentable state. I have seen some good ones and some
awful ones. Most are decidedly average.
The Zero is much better, though there are a few flaws in the chassis and suspension design. Though most people probably wouldnt push hard enough to
find them.
David
My mate Dave Built a 2b and it was horrible to do.nothing fits and i had to do a lot of welding on critical items like the steering column mountings
,pedal box and wishbone mounts.Having said that after a lot of hard graft it is a very presentable looking car,though it does look a bit out of
proportion to the classic 7 shape.
personaly i wouldnt touch one but each to there own.
Andy
been there and done that
never again, awful, hateful, despicable things.
save your money or go to vegas and blow the lot - you'd have more fun!
As with all kit cars a lot is down to the builder. A good builder can make a good car out of a bad kit by putting in the time to iron out the problems. A bad builder can ruin a good kit.
Don't bother if you can afford more, agree with the above though. I'm treating mine as a load of metal that I have to design and
build a car out of, because that's honestly what its like. NOTHING fits or works well, if at all, bloody terrible.
I have one similar to the cut up one a few posts ago ^^, its getting there now, with redesigned rocker arms to take real shocks, tie rods, new
bulkhead and braking arrangement, etc etc, I mean it uses the front arb from a sierra FFS, that's about 109729477493KG on its own.
It'll never be an indy etc but it will look cool and be leagues ahead of tin tops in the fun stakes so I guess that'll do me.....
Sorry but i rather like mine!!
Though i cheated and bought it part built after Stuart_g on here did all the hard work :-)
740kg total at SVA.
Not the best handling and not a rocket ship but fine and comfy for touring, which was why i wanted it as the Indy blade was a nightmare for day 2 day
use. And it has a hood and screen which are very handy for Scotland's weather!
Edit to say it cost half what my Indy cost to build, but then its probably worth half if i sold it now!
[Edited on 1/8/09 by scotlad]