Just got my plates today so I thought I'd go for a spin and appear to have broke it already!

It's not the first time I've driven it I drove it to my iva test and back twice (60miles) and it was fine, but that was a steady drive and today is the first time I've give it some! The car is an mk Indy r with a hayabusa engine using a hole shot sump with baffle plate.

Basically the oil light came on for a bit on my koso dash, and it started sounding rough with a loss of power also was a smell of burning oil! I checked the oil before and after the run and it is at the full line on the window, or checked the engine for leaks and all seems ok. The oil light didn't stay on for long but then flickered a few times which mainly seemed to be when changing gear. After checking it over I started it up again and it sounded ok again but I daren't drive it again til I've diagnosed why it did it in the first place.

Also the battery is pretty flat ATM it will start it but the electric reverse won't work but doubt this could affect it in the way I have experienced.

[Edited on 19/8/12 by parkiboy]

does not sound good

Problem with oil lights coming on is that they trigger at very low pressure, typically 15lb when running along you should be
nearer 60psi.

Take the sump off and make sure the pickup aint blocked or damaged and is in the correct position.

Did you check the level in the sight glass with the engine running or stopped?

I know that with GSXR1000's with shortened sumps it is recommended to check the oil level with the engine running at 3000rpm.
Fill until the oil bubble just disappears - then add another 1/2 pint of oil.

Also important that oil filters are 'burped'.

I got told to check it with the engine off with the busa??

I'll take the sump off tomorrow and have a look, I didn't do that part (bought part built) I just hope they did it right!

I hope the engine isn't knackered I can't afford a rebuild and shouldn't have to, I did none of the engine work just interior, some electrics and iva prep, I'll be royally pissed of if they have done something incorrectly which is gonna cost me :-/

Bloody first day - the joys of kit car ownership eh lol

yes engine off

That's all the fun of buying a part built. You have absolutely no idea what's been done or how until you take it apart to check!

Acusump
You know it makes sense

Drain the oil and look for any metal flakes. Ideally this would be done with warm oil nut in this situation dont start it. Just drain and look.

Your looking for flakes ot small bits of metal so if you spot any metal its bad.

I hope you have not brake it. Burning bol may be overflow so have a look.

Well i drained the oil and it seemed ok til i poured it out and was left with a sparkly oil tray



As you can imagine i am fuming, first day on the road and this happens and i can only suspect it being an existing problem caused by the guy who built it, i have lost a lot of love for this car now really wish i never bought it, what seemed like a good deal is now going to cost me money i dont have to spend!

Whats this suggest? full rebuild or just top end? and anyone know the cost of a rebuild for a busa?

Oh no, gutted for you.

I wouldnt worry about little bits like that, and would try and find the cause of the oil starvation, resolve and re-fill with oil. A few filings like that you might get away with, but be gentle with it. Doing this would certainly be cheaper than a rebuild.

Can i ask if you know where the engine came from? Its possible that no-one would have known the engine could have been damaged or incorrectly installed, so wouldnt get too excited until you know the root cause.

it was apparently from yorkshire engines but the previous owner couldnt find the receipt.

are bike engines like the old A series where they share engine/gearbox oil? if so that level of sparly bits could just be normal? personally i would re fill, new filter and try again. if it dies it dies, just chalk it up to life/experience and buy a new one or get it rebuilt

It could be bits from the clutch plates, as the engine and box all need the same oil, and it's a wet clutch. Might be worth opening the clutch cover up and having a look. It'll only cost you a gasket to do it.

Any more close ups of the bits. Do they look like grains or shavings?

They could be wear from else where.

Correct me if i am wrong but i was under the thought big end shells are the first to go on becs. If Thats the case then it wont be as bad as your thinking cost wise.

Its not like its a conrod through the block situation.

Oh, sorry about my previous bad post,1am drunk posting on a phone!!

quote:

---

Originally posted by bi22le
Any more close ups of the bits. Do they look like grains or shavings?

They could be wear from else where.

Correct me if i am wrong but i was under the thought big end shells are the first to go on becs. If Thats the case then it wont be as bad as your thinking cost wise.

Its not like its a conrod through the block situation.

Oh, sorry about my previous bad post,1am drunk posting on a phone!!

---

Well i've took the sump off and its not looking good, the bottom was full of metal flakes, mainly copper/bronze in colour



I couldnt see anything obvious wrong but im not a mechanic so ive took a couple of photos to see what you guys think.




Whats my next move?

Looks like you need to be removing the engine and ordering some new bearings.

You can do it yourself if your up to the challenge (not difficult if you can use spanners and a manual) or send it off to someone else for a bottom end rebuild

Failing that sell it on for spares or repair and buy a replacement.

It's the bottom end then your thinking, the head should be ok?

I've noticed the bikes are as much as the engines thought about buying one and stripping it down.

if you buy the whole bike, you wont loose out by the time you have shifted the rest on ebay....
fairings go for reasonable money if not scuffed/broke

I've just realised, I think it is missing a baffle plate?

The guy who built it said it has a holeshot racing baffled billet sump, shouldn't they have been a baffle plate between the sump and the block?

But still guessing the lack of this wouldn't cause the engine to give in within such a small amount of use?

For some yes, but (no busa expert) think the baffle might be what can be seen in your first pic in the top half

[Edited on 20/8/12 by ReMan]

It has got a baffle plate but it doesn't look like it goes the whole way across. The drain tube is missing ( has to be cut shorter to allow the pickup to swing) but that shouldn't make any difference.

How are you getting on with this. Any news?

Not as yet, got a good deal on an accusump so waiting for that to turn up before taking it anywhere, think it will be going to day tuners hopefully by the end of the week

Dont loose sight of the fantastic machine you will have in the end.

I recently bought an MK that i was going to fettle with some new parts, turned out a total rebuild in the end, but i plan to keeep it for many year to come.

Good luck

quote:

---

Originally posted by jakeob

I recently bought an MK that i was going to fettle with some new parts, turned out a total rebuild in the end,

---

Well i planed to re paint it , but ended up with a new body,

Then a full cage

Fitted new wheels and tryes and disks all round,

That was the original plan,

Then found out the engine not a proper cossi and on its way out so,////

Got a propper Cossi lump,, then decided i might as well go the whole way and change the to a T5 box, a cossi Diff and drive shafts

Cost about 9k to refurb it, If i could start again i would have just got MK to build me a new one

Well the cars gone to day tuners today and spent a fortune before that cars even started getting repaired. The engine is now getting upgrade to a dry sump system and is having a mapping session!