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Plumbing - T pieces
supercat - 24/5/07 at 01:32 PM

Hello, Anyone know where I can pick up a 32mm / 16mm / 32mm T piece for plumbing my polo rad to my pinto?

Ta, James


nib1980 - 24/5/07 at 01:33 PM

Try phoning car builder solutions they can make most things at a reasonable price


PeterW - 24/5/07 at 01:36 PM

You'll get either 28/28/15 or 35/35/15 in solder ring, which will give you a beaded edge to stop the pipe slipping off

CHeers

Pete


flak monkey - 24/5/07 at 01:38 PM

How are you plumbing it in?

I did this, and only needed one t-piece for the breather hoses. Available from a motorfactors for about a quid.


cadebytiger - 24/5/07 at 01:41 PM

if i am going polo then i will also need one of these Ts

just simpler than changing all the plumbing


supercat - 24/5/07 at 01:48 PM

quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
How are you plumbing it in?

I did this, and only needed one t-piece for the breather hoses. Available from a motorfactors for about a quid.


Like this...


Description
Description


Might have to visit the local plumbing shop....


James


jacko - 24/5/07 at 01:59 PM

That's a lot of pipe work
block the rad overflow off
block the small pipe on the thermostat off
pipe out of the head to top of header tank out bottom of tank to water pump .
if you block the head how do you get the air out ?
+ 2 big pipes going to the rad
this is how mine is
Jacko

PS i used the header tank with the auto air in air out top of a ford sierra

[Edited on 24/5/07 by jacko]


supercat - 24/5/07 at 03:23 PM

sorry made my drawing a bit clearer


Description
Description


I agree about not blocking off the outlet to the head, surely you need this to circutlate water around the engine when the thermostat is closed?

James


supercat - 24/5/07 at 03:30 PM

Won't that pump air from the top of the header tank into the head???


indykid - 24/5/07 at 04:42 PM

if you're happy with copper, i have what you need surplus after i put the bike carb manifold on.

it's a 28/15/28 solder ring T, but the solder rings make it near on perfect for 32mm rad hose and 16mm heater hose.

think the t on it's own was originally about £11, but you can have it for £7.50 posted if you're interested.

the 15mm outlet has a bit of extra pipe to get the heater hose to where i needed it, but it's easy enough to change.

i'll see if i can find a pic if you're intersted
tom


Testingone - 24/5/07 at 05:14 PM

Hi, i needed exactly the same thing.If you happen to have a demon tweeks catologue-look at page 257.item 11 which is available in 5 sizes and item 12 which is available in 4 sizes.Its an expensive way to do it, but is available in your sizes and is a proper hose adaptor to do the job.Hope this helps,Paul.


jacko - 24/5/07 at 07:34 PM

quote:
Originally posted by supercat
Won't that pump air from the top of the header tank into the head???


NO the water comes out the head to the top of the tank out the bottom of tank to water pump
mine has been like this for 3+ years with no problems
Graham


supercat - 25/5/07 at 09:42 AM

Ok, can I do this:


Description
Description


and use a 16mm t-piece, makes the plumbing a lot neater.. using a t between pump/head/tank.

James


flak monkey - 25/5/07 at 09:43 AM

Why not just block the head pipe off?

A lot of people do it with no major problems.

It was there on the original carb set up because the manifold was heated to improve fuel efficiency.

[Edited on 25/5/07 by flak monkey]


supercat - 25/5/07 at 09:59 AM

To be honest I didn't realise this was an option, but if its safe then ok. Just a bit nervous as my car is run on the track so cooling has to be good

James


jacko - 25/5/07 at 12:35 PM

quote:
Originally posted by supercat
Ok, can I do this:


Description
Description


and use a 16mm t-piece, makes the plumbing a lot neater.. using a t between pump/head/tank.

James

Yes that will be ok
Jacko