ShaunB
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| posted on 21/2/10 at 08:32 AM |
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Which thermostat?
What temp thermostat do you guys run in your race cars? Or do you use a blanking plate?
The stat cover had been weeping, so I took it off to re-seal it only to discover no stat was fitted. This ties in with the PO's comments that
the temp never went over 80. I had a Mk2 Escort back in the 80's and took the stat out after it over-heated a couple of times due to stat
sticking shut, but with it removed it just never got up to temp. My car has an ali rad from a Golf fitted, so cooling capacity should not be a
problem.
Cheers,
Shaun.
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DRC INDY 7
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| posted on 21/2/10 at 09:10 AM |
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my pinto has a 88 degree stat in but then im running a 4 core westfield radiator only have to switch on the fan if im stuck in taffic
[Edited on 2/21/2010 by DRC INDY 7]
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Puddle Dodgers Club
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britishtrident
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| posted on 21/2/10 at 10:33 AM |
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83c or 88c thermostat standard part as used on Xflo, BL Mini, MGB and most other 1960s cars.
Best to drill at least one bleed hole 2 to 2.5mm dia in the thermostat valve plate before fitting.
Be aware if you have a thermostat fitted you must have a by-pass hose connected or as on most 1970s Fords a heater in which the temperature
isn't controlled by a water valve.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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prawnabie
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| posted on 21/2/10 at 01:10 PM |
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Be aware there a 2 different diameter stats fitted in the crossflow!
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procomp
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| posted on 22/2/10 at 09:26 AM |
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Hi
The majority of the racers do not use a thermostat. They chop the center section of the thermostat out leaving just the outer ring as a flow
restrictor. If using a thermostat the one to use is the 74deg one. As the crossflow needs to operate at no more that 78 deg to produce best power.
Getting the water pluming right is the most essential part though and using a header / expansion tank and return bleed from the rad and thermostat
unit are essential to get the system fully operating to its best potential. Also using the smaller DIA crank pulley to reduce the water pump speed if
using high revs on a track is a very good idea.
Cheers Matt
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ShaunB
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| posted on 22/2/10 at 07:23 PM |
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Thanks folks. When I said blanking plate I meant a flow restrictor. I've read that running without some form of flow restriction causes uneven
cooling (probably not much coolant flow around #4 cylinder).
Matt - Do you blank off the small connection on top of the water pump? I assume originally it was just a return from the bypass/heater circuit.
It's currently plumbed directly to the header tank, as is the stat housing, but I do not have a bleed connection on the rad.
I have a steel crank pulley, will have to check the diameter.
Cheers,
Shaun.
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procomp
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| posted on 23/2/10 at 09:29 AM |
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Hi
Yep the fitting on top of the Pump is used as a return. And as you have it plumed direct to the header tank is correct. Or alternatively blank the
fitting of and plum the header tank return back into the cold return from rad closer to the rad. I do it that way so as to have less clutter with the
pluming around the engine its self.
Not everyone can get a bleed from the rad particularly if using the Polo rad. Best solution there is to raise the rear of the car ( assuming the
header tank is on the scuttle ) and run the engine till warm and squeeze the bottom hose gently a good few times to tease any air from the top of the
rad back up to the thermostat housing which will bleed back to the header tank.
Or alternatively if you have the Polo rad with the bleed fitting blanked of just bled the air from there when doing the initial first few runs and
then re seal with bung. Just keep checking for a good spread of heat all over the rad. IE no cold spots.
Cheers Matt
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