yellowcab
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 07:29 PM |
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2004 MK Indy Busa Project
Hi guys,
Not really a 'build' thread as such, as it's already built - but I'll certainly been changing a few bits & bobs on the car
as time goes on, in between being on track, which is 99% of the reason I've bought it.
Throwing money at it isn't something I'm interested in, my mindset is very much - get it on track, like NOW. Avid track day & sprint
goer, I'm interested in nothing that doesn't make me go quicker, smoother etc.
My YouTube channel is (cringes at the username) www.youtube.com/trackdaynova
For now, here is the first photo of her at home, but being a photographer - they'll be plenty more.
Yes the heavy 15s will go along with the Kuhmo Ecstas, but got some reading up to do on whether to drop to 13s or not, as the FD is already at 3.14,
so wouldn't want to limit my top speed much more...
Thanks for reading
Olz
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danny keenan
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 07:38 PM |
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hi olz
please join our MK Owners page on facebook.i update this all the time with our new products and there are some real nice cars on there.
check out our new rear diffuser on there
any help you need with your car just ask me.
thanks danny mk sportscars
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yellowcab
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 08:01 PM |
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Hiya Danny,
Thanks for the warm welcome - I'll nip over to Facebook now to click Like have a read...
Got so many questions to ask, but would sooner search and read forums, rather than doing the annoying newbie thing of asking questions that have been
covered over and over again  )
Take care
Olz
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afj
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 08:04 PM |
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dropping to 13s wont decrease your top speed as long as your on 205/60 at the rear
eerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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yellowcab
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 08:10 PM |
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Awesome, Thanks... so the rolling radius on my current 205/50/15's is the exact same as a 205/60/13... in which case... what to buy...
I'm unfamiliar with even the PCD of my current wheels, I can only presume they are Ford fitment which I believe is 4x108... so I guess the R500
wheels won't fit as I believe they're 4x100...
What offset am I after, and also are they 6J fronts, 8J rears?
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afj
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 08:27 PM |
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the radius is about the same as 195/50/15 so may drop a couple mph my compomotive cxrs are 6 inch front 185/60 and 7 rear 205/60 and the off sets
are about et27 rear and 23 front and seem to sit about right on my old 15s had 6.5 wide and et36. the only problem with 13s is the rear brake
caliper clearance if using sierra calipers i and other here had to remove the coil return spring some on here have sourced a custom small spring, i
just fitted a compression spring on the hand brake cable, wheel choise is limted to compomotive cxrs team dynamics pro race 1.2 and some expensive
split rims oh think daniel mason on here has cateringvan wheels look very
eerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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daniel mason
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 08:38 PM |
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I have r500's on my Mnr. 4x 108
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Proby
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 08:47 PM |
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Great pic Olz....
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Andy B
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 08:50 PM |
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We dropped from 7 x 15's shod with 205 50 15's to 7 x 13's on 205 60 13, the difference in diameter is negligible but we took 12kgs
out overall. We are using pro race 1.2 wheels which are available in all the usual et offsets and ford fitment. Noticeable improvement in handling as
well.
Regards
Andy
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yellowcab
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 10:09 PM |
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afj - thanks for the gen on the radius' and wheel/tyre options, will certainly be looking into them!
Daniel - nice one, always imagined r500 wheels were 4x100, nice to know they'll go on Ford hubs!
Proby - just a quick snap using the iPhone, not cracked out my proper gear & rig on it yet lol
Andy - looking forward to unsprung weigh advantage and handing too )
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big_l
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| posted on 2/3/12 at 11:39 PM |
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your car looks nice mate congrats 
where you based ???
Check out my blog mnrvortxhayabusa@blogspot.com
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yellowcab
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| posted on 3/3/12 at 12:25 AM |
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Just in between Leicester & Coventry on the M69 :-)
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yellowcab
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| posted on 3/3/12 at 06:19 PM |
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lol broke it already, a spirited drive down the country roads going through the gears leaves me with a snapped gear linkage rod just where it enters
the engine bay... luckily it snapped whilst in 3rd gear, so pulled over, switched off, had a look, and then drove it home...
Can only presume its a relatively common procedure just due to the nature of the wear & tear such a joint... lol
Hey ho, great excuse to have a tinker
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daniel mason
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| posted on 3/3/12 at 06:32 PM |
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i assume its a stick shift,so have you thought about a paddle shif setup? think andy bates does a nice one if my memory is correct!
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yellowcab
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| posted on 3/3/12 at 07:09 PM |
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I kinda liked the idea of a stick shift, up until this afternoon lol
Just felt with paddle shift it'd take some of the 'driving' out of things, but maybe not...
What kinda money are they? any links to any pic setups?
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danny keenan
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| posted on 3/3/12 at 08:25 PM |
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if its and old linkage its madde from rpush rods.we now make them with a push pull cable.they work alot better and never break.
its the same cable we use on our paddle shift system which works really good.
thanks danny
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yellowcab
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| posted on 3/3/12 at 08:38 PM |
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Danny, would you recommend that I replace with cables either way then, rather than what I currently have?
Regardless of sticking with stick shift or going paddle?
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danny keenan
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| posted on 3/3/12 at 08:42 PM |
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its alot smoother gear change with a cable instead of rods.i would change it for what it costs.
you have my mobile numer if you need any help or advice.
thanks danny
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yellowcab
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| posted on 3/3/12 at 08:49 PM |
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I'll give you a tinkle tomorrow is that's OK? Or would you rather me wait until Monday?
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danny keenan
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| posted on 3/3/12 at 09:00 PM |
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tomorrow is fine mate any time you want.
thanks daany
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yellowcab
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| posted on 5/3/12 at 08:42 PM |
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Managed to see what's actually broke on my shifter, and it's the DynoJet Quickshifter itself, it has '07 1 PULL' written on
it, and the threaded bar has sheared off... Surely these should be high tensile no?
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yellowcab
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| posted on 13/3/12 at 09:41 PM |
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Just a small update, sent the unit back to Dynojet UK who confirmed that the fault was not a manufacturing defect which I kinda knew, they told me to
look out for a slight twist in my gear throw... As a gesture of goodwill, they have offered me 25% discount on a replacement unit which is good of
them, so doing that.
For now, I went down to B&Q, got 30" of steel tubing (£4.18), 1mm wall thickness x 16mm diameter, rounded the shoulders off two m8 nuts,
popped them in the ends and seam welded them, smoothed them off, popped the rose joints back on, and job jobbed... Car fixed... Just means for now I
have to use the clutch to change gear, ad no full throttle up changes!
Here is a small video I made because I was bored from before I broke it last week sometime )
http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=mhee&v=MZekIs2zkv4
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yellowcab
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| posted on 17/3/12 at 01:01 PM |
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broke it again, luckily I was with a group of mates in a well kitted out garage at the time - so removed said broken part, looked at why it broke, and
improved it - win win!!!
The supporting bracket that was operating/ holding the clutch arm into the gearbox stripped the threads out of the gearbox upon a hard 'rev
up' (it was in gear at the time, but clutch was depressed)
Rolled the car forward thinking it was proper broke to find an M8 nut (not snapped) with the last three threads being full of alloy... offered up the
bracket to put the bolt back in, and it was only held in by those three turns of the bolt...
So we got a longer bolt, and screwed it in the correct amount, whilst cutting a new thread into said gearbox hole.
Clutch pedal feels more solid than before now, not as much 'loose play' as it were... however it could be tighter with some of the sloppy
joints being replaced, in the near future )
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yellowcab
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| posted on 20/3/12 at 04:40 PM |
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Some old pics that I took that I forgot to upload...
 
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Bought a mini-mic so I could record on my iPhone with zero wind noise, so the mic is placed behind the dash
 
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Gear shift indicator cheap eBay bobbie came today
 
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The fix on the broken gear linkage
 
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yellowcab
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| posted on 20/3/12 at 04:43 PM |
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Decided to measure up and design my own MK Indy rear diffuser, so we got making a ply-wood template so its a constant continuation of the flat floor,
which will prevent the rear clam acting as a parachute slowing the car down under hard acceleration
Underside showing the continuation, large fins on the outside, slightly shallower fins on the inners to channel the air correctly
 
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Larger out fins
 
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Being made out of 1.2mm alloy sheeting, with folded outer fins, and TIG welded inner fins
 
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Edge will be rolled and rounded to keep Mr.MOT tester happy, and to keep within guidelines, protrudes the rear of the car by 25mm
 
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