JB7
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| posted on 8/8/11 at 08:41 AM |
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The gloop I use is "Permatex Bearing Mount"
I've also got a technical drawing of the westfield box HERE
which also includes all the bearing reference numbers.
I'm about to head off on a two week tour of Austria in my westy so in the process of prepping the car I've doing some more experiments
with the reverse boxes (I have two & carry one as a spare when on tour)
Firstly I ordered a full set of bearings from www.simplybearings.co.uk who were by far the cheapest and fast delivery.
Test one was replacing the main and layshaft bearings - still noisy as hell & box get's as hot as ever
Test two was to then replace the two spigot bearings. Bu$$er to get out but improvement on the noise but still getting hot.
Test three was to remove the layshaft and chain (no reverse) big reduction in noise but still rattling when the transmission goes "slack"
on light throttle and box still get hot.
Test four was to then remove the transfer gear but leave it's bearing in place as a spacer. I also made a 1mm thick brass float washer to take
up the space. So effectively there are no moving parts inside the box now apart from the shaft itself. Box is now completely silent but still gets
hot.
Test five was to reduce the oil level to the recommended level (previously i had it overfilled) and box runs a lot cooler albeit still warm. All the
noise has now dissappeared totally except for a slight rattle on slack transmission. This can only be the dogs rattling as there's nothing left
in there to make any noise
So in summary i reckon the overfill was contributing to the problem with all the gears thrashing around in it , it was generarting heat and of course
sapping power. I'm going to do the tour with the box as is, ie no reverse, and see how i get on and carry the spare box fully assembled.
Hope this is of some use to someone
Jonathan
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 8/8/11 at 10:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JB7
The gloop I use is "Permatex Bearing Mount"
I've also got a technical drawing of the westfield box HERE
which also includes all the bearing reference numbers.
I'm about to head off on a two week tour of Austria in my westy so in the process of prepping the car I've doing some more experiments
with the reverse boxes (I have two & carry one as a spare when on tour)
Firstly I ordered a full set of bearings from www.simplybearings.co.uk who were by far the cheapest and fast delivery.
Test one was replacing the main and layshaft bearings - still noisy as hell & box get's as hot as ever
Test two was to then replace the two spigot bearings. Bu$$er to get out but improvement on the noise but still getting hot.
Test three was to remove the layshaft and chain (no reverse) big reduction in noise but still rattling when the transmission goes "slack"
on light throttle and box still get hot.
Test four was to then remove the transfer gear but leave it's bearing in place as a spacer. I also made a 1mm thick brass float washer to take
up the space. So effectively there are no moving parts inside the box now apart from the shaft itself. Box is now completely silent but still gets
hot.
Test five was to reduce the oil level to the recommended level (previously i had it overfilled) and box runs a lot cooler albeit still warm. All the
noise has now dissappeared totally except for a slight rattle on slack transmission. This can only be the dogs rattling as there's nothing left
in there to make any noise
So in summary i reckon the overfill was contributing to the problem with all the gears thrashing around in it , it was generarting heat and of course
sapping power. I'm going to do the tour with the box as is, ie no reverse, and see how i get on and carry the spare box fully assembled.
Hope this is of some use to someone
Jonathan
wow thanks for that jonathan - sounds like your making headway there - i would really love to keep the reverse gear for 2 reasons
when on FBB10 the road to Tongue is a single passing road - i nearly got ran over by a 40 ton truck who decided he had to get past without watching
his rear wheels which weren't on the same path of course as his front cab ones - god if i couldnt get the car into reverse and quickly i would
of been under the truck!!! what a nob. cant risk that again.. plus my drive has a slope.. tried pushing car - too steep.
when you took the chain off the sprocket how did the sprocket teeth look? were they worn? if so the chain may have stretched [they always do on bikes
and wears all sprockets to the new pitch]
the parts you got other than bearings were from westfield?
iv often wondered how much it would cost to get new gears made to suit it - mine also has the old thread nuts with 2 RH threads on the input / output
shafts.. pah.. damn thing is a pain!! but cureable i reckon - may cost tho but not as much as replacing with a different option of reverse.
electric starter - 200[props, bearing] 100 for ring gear, electrics etc - probably looking at 450 - 500
if i were to put another rgb in it would be the MNR - 500 plus maybe a prop [200]
rebuild westfield gearbox - maybe about 200 - 300ish depends on what works.. plus no refabrication of chassis and wiring etc..
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JB7
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| posted on 8/8/11 at 11:33 AM |
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Westfield are sodding useless for parts ...i'm still waiting for prices from them four weeks later however the parts are all available elsewhere
if you look.
The chain is a standard Renold one however upon checking neither of mine have stretched at all. If you think about it, the chain is under no load
whatsoever. Ok it is spinning freely at prop speed but under no load so it's not really surprising that it does stretch. The only time it is
under load is when you're going in reverse. There was no signs of any real wear on the cogs too.
The spec for the bronze float washer is 2mm .... again mine was bang on. The spec for the bronze crush collet is 3.85mm. The last time I enquired
about a new set of crush collets, which was direct from the manufacturer (not westfield) they wanted 120GBP for them plus VAT!!!
You will note from the drawing that there is no end float whatsoever built into the design. I suspect this is where the heat is generated from thermal
expansion but not proven it yet. There is a float washer but it only provides float for the transfer gear.
When you go to rebuild I think you'll find a new set of bearings and seals (50GBP) is all you'll need and throw it all back together
again.
The flange nuts are the only thing i've not been able to source. They are stake nuts M22 x 1.0 ..... let me know if you find a source for them
please.
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andyfiggy2002
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| posted on 8/8/11 at 07:37 PM |
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wow, its funny on a locost site i get better information than on the westfield site?? i shove a shot of molyslip gear additive in addition to the gear
oil in mine which might explain my RGB,s longevity & reliability, this stuff coats bearings and cogwheels with a molybdenum film, deadening
unwanted sound and reducing the effort of gear changes
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