JoelP
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posted on 21/2/04 at 12:24 PM |
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A BTTT combined with 'does anyone know how much 3 meters of 35mm copper tube should cost roughly?' Dont want to get lashed on monday!
and what is a yorkshire fitting? 'scuse the ignorance...
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Screwy
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posted on 21/2/04 at 01:00 PM |
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couldnt tell you how much the pipe would cost but a yorkshire fitting is the one with a ring of solder inside just flux the pipe put on the fitting
and heat up till the solder runs job done .
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brianm
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posted on 22/2/04 at 03:11 PM |
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For all these copper plumbing bits try www.bes.ltd.uk. Most things in stock, next day delivery and carriage free over £40. £4-95 under £40. Used to be
free on all orders, but got taken advantage of I suppose.
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Terrapin_racing
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posted on 23/2/04 at 12:37 PM |
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Just my input on this. I've used copper frequently over the years with no problem at all. 15mm & 22mm are standard sizes. Any larger and it
gets very expensive. Vibration is not a problem with coolant pipes provided they are not mounted rigidly or stressed. Once you get above 22mm
I've found aluminium very cost effective (about £14 for 15 feet) - I have the special flaring tool for 1.25" od tube if anyone needs any
couplings making.
It's ideal for branches if you have access to TIG.
Another useful alternative is to use mild steel exhaust tubing and then buy smaller bore steel tubing for the branches (BQ stock this in 1m / 2m
lengths). It's great for brazing and especially where you want to braze in stubs for temp. senders/switches etc. With all these I then thoroughly
clean (blast clean is great) when complete and then either powder coat or prime with etch primer and the use plastikote metal paint (rated to 150c
easily). Internal corrosion with any of these will be no problem as long as a good corrosion resistant anti-freeze or corrosion resisting "water
wetter" is used. I have examples still in use in vehicles over 15 years of age.
[Edited on 23/2/04 by Terrapin_racing]
Rescued attachment front2.JPG
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JoelP
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posted on 23/2/04 at 01:35 PM |
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well, i got some 35mm copper tube today, £20 for 3 metres! bloody steep but it should work well.
does anyone know if i am best off soldering it or welding it to put a lip on it?
thanks!
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blueshift
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posted on 23/2/04 at 02:03 PM |
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best off squashing a lip into it, I think. I haven't tried solder but I expect it'd just run flat rather than make a nice ridge, and
I'm not sure what you'd weld copper with. oxy?
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Terrapin_racing
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posted on 23/2/04 at 02:10 PM |
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If you anneal the ends (heat to bright red and then quench in water) you will be able to form a bead on the pipe using a simple former - you'll
find the copper is extremely soft when annealed. Alternative would be to solder a compression ring in place - I hate to aske what 30mm cr's
cost?
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sgraber
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posted on 23/2/04 at 07:14 PM |
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A vise-grips can easily be bodged into a bead former. You can see the tips I welded onto the end of the VG in the photo below. It does the trick.
Annealing would have been a great idea. I just did it by brute force. Quite tiring after a few rounds.
[Edited on 2/23/04 by sgraber]
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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JoelP
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posted on 23/2/04 at 10:31 PM |
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i had to modify my plans today, it was nearly impossible to get them on without a lip, god knows what i'd've done to get it over the lip
as well! so i used a thin grinder blade to take a slit out of the pipe, jubilees to shrink it closed, a blob of weld on full wack to join it (seems to
weld ok), lower power to cover the rest of the gap, plan to grind flat and solder over it tomorrow to fill the tiny holes left. then put a series of
blobs of weld round the lip to help it grip, and clamp the jubilees on. the dude in the shop said they didnt have any 35mm olive thingies.
got loads left to play with anyway!
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James
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posted on 24/2/04 at 11:14 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Terrapin_racing
I hate to aske what 30mm cr's cost?
About 30p- I bought one for this very purpose yesterday!
I think I've finally managed to sort my cooling out.
I'm going to mostly use the Sierra pipes but I bought yesterday a couple of reducers (7 bloody quid each with York fittings ) to step down to
the Micra rad sizes.
James
[Edited on 24/2/04 by James]
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