Andy D
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| posted on 21/7/07 at 02:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Darren i had 1mm planed off the head .
The other thing i have done is when i altered my sump i put the extra tank at the front + a s/steel hinge between the old part and the new part so oil
would not swill forward on braking but will flow to the back where the oil pick up pipe is i hope this makes sense
Graham
That's the key, I reckon. If the oil is splashing round the sump getting whipped up by the crank, it doesn't matter how good a breathing
system you've got, oil and oil-mist will be blown out into the catch tank.
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 08:01 PM |
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could someone help tell me what I have? I bought the car in the current state and have a box of buts but not sure whats what. thanks 
 
Rescued attachment Photo00003.jpg
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 08:02 PM |
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and Ive this in the box:
 
Rescued attachment Photo00005.jpg
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DarrenW
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 09:26 PM |
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First pic looks like std Sierra oil trap with PCV and pipe to inlet manifold. Where does pipe go to. The valve should pull out of the grommet - std
has a ball valve with spring behind. Inlet vacuum opens it to pull our crankcase gasses and burn them off. No good with multiple carbs - hence this
thread.
The second pic is a cortina oil trap - the bit i had to search long and hard for. Keep it. Useful for multiple carb set ups. Replaces the std sierra
oil trap (round bit). See my pics above and you will see wrong way and correct way to fit it.
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 09:30 PM |
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excellent, Ive got twin 40s so the pipe just vents to air. Im assuming this means its doing NOTHING? Im getting oil out the cap and dipstick.
Ive ordered the burton filler cap with breather and a catch tank so hope to fit the cortina bit and run them both to the tank.
how did you attach the cortina bit to catch tank pipe to the cortina bit? Just push in a pipe?
thanks for the reply this is all new to me, used to more modern stuff lol.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 09:42 PM |
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Have a look if the current connection has spring loaded plunger in. If it does then this is the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. stp 1 is
remove the spring plunger ofr just pull it out and fit cortina trap. Read my post above ref fitting cortine trap. I found 1/2" id tube pushed
into gromet ontop of cortina trap nice and tight. You can see in posts how i connected to catch tank.
I thing mucatch tank is bad design (hence taking top off and fitting baffle). I also think my modded sump is bad design and needs better bafles. As a
result oil is flicked about in crankcase and fills catch tank - i have compensated by fitting a drain back to sump. Have a good reda of this post and
do a search. If you have further Q's let me know.
also take note that Jacko doesnt have issues but i do / did - main difference is sump baffles.
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 09:56 PM |
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thanks darren appreciate it!
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DarrenW
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 10:39 PM |
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No probs. Sorry for spelling mistakes. Using wifes laptop - suffered abuse and kids spilling pop on keyboard. Keys dont work well!!!!! Screen has
nearly fell off.
Pinto breathing shouldnt be such a black art. I strongly believe sump design has a big part to play. It seems good baffles to prevent crank being
swamped is a good precaution. How to do that is another matter (trial and error i guess).
Have fun and keep in touch. Welcome to the forum.
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jacko
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| posted on 24/7/07 at 08:27 PM |
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As Darren say's just ask
Jacko
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 24/7/07 at 10:27 PM |
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Cheers guys I ended up getting this breather as the cortina one didnt fit too well. it went into the block ok but getting the hose in from above was a
bit tight. I had the car up at a local mechanic tonight to get it booked in for a timing and carb setup and he suggested it. So for £7 Ill have a
breather that fits much nicer.
Here is my half baked effort from tonight. Havent got my catchcan yet so improvised with a tub of nutriprem baby milk powder
Thanks for the advice guys steep learning curve here
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 24/7/07 at 10:28 PM |
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oh yes Darren the 1/2" heater hose was spot on!!!
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DarrenW
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| posted on 25/7/07 at 12:15 PM |
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he he, that made me chuckle. A bling breather outlet feeding into a babymilk tin!! On a serious note you dont need a fancy off the shelf catch tank. I
had mine made up and only cost about a tenner. Several people have used £1.99 ali drinks bottles or old fire extinguishers etc. Do a search for diy
catch tanks for inspiration. At last Teesside trackday JoelP's mate used a 2l milk carton to trial his breathing.
Personally id use the milk tin for a while and see how you go. You could always stick some foam in to stop any oil sloshing about, or glue the plastic
lid back on and feed pipes through a hole (not tight fitting ones). At least then you can fine tune the breather pipes etc then get a better tank
later that will be exactly what you want (design and size).
Im surprised the Cortina trap didnt fit. Mine is a nice tight fit in the block. 1/2" bore pipe squeezes into the grommet nicely. I like the
design of this as it is a good size to allow oil to be seperated by the baffle plate and run back into block. I suspect mine is overfilling however
due to bad sump design, oil is then forced up pipe as it has nowhere else to go while the engine is running. This si why i have fitted a drain back to
sump (which in itself is a second breather from the crankcase).
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 25/7/07 at 12:31 PM |
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well I gave it a good run last night and there was no oil in the can just vapour coming out of the pipes.
I got my (£30) catch tank today and have plumbed that in but Im now thinking with the tank being pressurised is it really going to do me any good? I
think the open top tank might be better as its allowing the vapour to go free and stopping the pressure getting too high to blow the oil out.
Ill see what happens with the catch tank but Im a little worried I must admit as now the oil cant even go out the filler cap as its plumbed to the
catch tank and thus still pressurised.
maybe venting the catch tank via a little filter would be more appropriate.
PS my catch tank has 2 inlets only. both being used (filler cap and block tap)
PPS the problem with the cortina trap is that the gap between the top of it and the bottom of the weber is quite small so the pipe is slightly
kinked.
[Edited on 25/7/07 by 2b_pablo]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 26/7/07 at 08:34 AM |
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The cortina trap defo fits in neatly underneath twin webers. You need to remove the sierra trap first though - i didnt on earlier pic in this
thread.
im curious about your catch tank. Do you have pic? In my mind it does need to be vented, but also i believe the inlet pipes should run to somewhere
near the bottom of the tank. This si why i have fitted a baffle in my tank.
i would be tempted to run the milk tin for a while as this proves the crankcase ventilation is good. Then if you fit new catch tank and you get bother
then it suggests it is more down to the tank itself.
Mine seems to be working well since i fitted the drain. Ill cover the top shortly.
Interstingly i was talking to the owner of a 4WD Dax Cosworth Turbo last night - he has all sorts of breathing issues as well. he is also of the
conclusion that half the battle is good sump design.
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 26/7/07 at 08:46 AM |
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here is the tank mate:
http://i10.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/99/ff/d614_1_sbol.JPG
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DarrenW
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| posted on 26/7/07 at 09:01 AM |
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That is very nice indeed. Looks like you can unscrew the top to see the pipe configuration inside. If one pipe goes to the bottom and one stays at the
top ypu maybe able to use the top one as the breather. My only concern is you will need to tee your 2 breather pipes into one which will leave a
constriction (possibly).
Other option is you may be able to drill and tap the top cover to fit a vent. Some airline fittings have suitable threaded bit bit they are usually
fairly small diameter. Have a go and see what happens first, but like you suspect i think being unvented it just creates a pressured area outside the
crankcase which may not be what you want.
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 26/7/07 at 11:08 AM |
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well it went rather disasterously. didnt like that setup one bit. blew a LOT of oil out the dipstick as it cant get out the filler cap anymore so Ive
taken the top off the tank and run the pipes into it and left the lid off (same setup as the milk tin only a lot neather).
If that makes it happy then it will stay like that!
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Ratters
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| posted on 26/7/07 at 05:05 PM |
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Making interesting reading all.
I had breathing trouble with mine before in the past, the main problem being not oil spillage as much as the dipstick, pipes & inside rocker cover
going all 'mayonaisey' [sp] as if water or condensation was getting in the oil.
This time round I have a different rocker cover with 2 outlets & the block with one outlet from the breather box. All pipes are about 1/2"
bore. At the moment these are just vented to air & I have not had a problem yet with oil spill though you can see a mist coming from them [mainly
the rocker ones]. I have seem them with the block vented to the rocker, then a second rocker one vented to catch tank which did work on this
particular engine though in my eyes you only have half the venting by not using the 2 seperately - does that make sence??
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jacko
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| posted on 26/7/07 at 06:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Hi i dont under stand why you all have this problem
All i have done is
1 remove the one way valve in the sump[ block side ]
2 blocked the oil filler cap
3 fitted a 10mm bore pipe from were the one way valve use to be fitted to a old WD 40 tin the pipe goes two thirds in to it and i have drilled 6
3mm holes around the top rim .
I have had No problems at all doing it this way and the car gets a lot off stick
Graham
As i above
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