MikeR
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posted on 18/11/13 at 04:35 PM |
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As everyone has suggested everything else ......
is the exhaust clear on that side? No chance you've got something stuck in it / the gasket covering the ports? simple test is undo the manifold
and give it a crank.
I do like the starter motor idea as I'm sure you have to swap it round to do your install.
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clairetoo
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posted on 18/11/13 at 05:31 PM |
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Well - the starter motor is the right one for the V6 , and since it will start (on three cylinders...) I'm pretty sure its spinning the right
way
The only thing I can think of , would too large an air-gap on the VR sensor be a problem ? Its about 35thou at the moment , and not too much of a
mission to reduce it........
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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cs3tcr
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posted on 18/11/13 at 06:10 PM |
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I would check cam timing, get a degree wheel (print one off from the 'net) and a dial indicator. When I built the Coventry Climax for my last
car, the bloody thing wouldn't run. Turned out that the cam in the Climax turned opposite to the crank and i had installed the cam thinking it
spun the same way. I ended up printing out a degree wheel and recording when the valves opened and closed, which told me right way that the cam
timing was way off.
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rdodger
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posted on 18/11/13 at 06:15 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by clairetoo
Well - the starter motor is the right one for the V6 , and since it will start (on three cylinders...) I'm pretty sure its spinning the right
way
The only thing I can think of , would too large an air-gap on the VR sensor be a problem ? Its about 35thou at the moment , and not too much of a
mission to reduce it........
If it's easy enough to move then I would try it. By the sound of it you have tried everything else.
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MikeRJ
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posted on 18/11/13 at 07:29 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by clairetoo
Well - the starter motor is the right one for the V6 , and since it will start (on three cylinders...) I'm pretty sure its spinning the right
way
The only thing I can think of , would too large an air-gap on the VR sensor be a problem ? Its about 35thou at the moment , and not too much of a
mission to reduce it........
Quite honestly I think it's unlikely that an incorrect air gap would only permit every other cylinder to fire.
Going back to your observation that the spark looked a bit weak on the non-operating bank I would check the coil wiring one more time. It's
quite possible to wire up a wasted spark coil so that only one side works correctly (i.e. by connecting the 12v feed to the wrong terminal).
[Edited on 18/11/13 by MikeRJ]
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perksy
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posted on 18/11/13 at 07:42 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by clairetoo
I've tried two different megasquirts on it , and tried them both on my car - they work fine on mine , but just the three cylinders on this one
.
I've lifted the fuel rail out still connected (cable ties holding the injectors in after firing one across the drive....) , cranked it over on
the starter with a clean piece of cardboard under it - priming pulse , then regular squirts while cranking........and the plugs come out wet .
The sparks are a bit weak on the duff side - cant understand that , as when I put the whole coil and lead setup on mine it ran fine .
If the sparks are weak outside of the cylinder, When under compression they will fail completely.
Coil is definitely ok ??
Triple checked ALL circuit & coil connections & wiring ?
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theconrodkid
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posted on 18/11/13 at 08:10 PM |
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If the sparks are weak outside of the cylinder, When under compression they will fail completely.
Coil is definitely ok ??
Triple checked ALL circuit & coil connections & wiring ?
as above.
try holding the HT cap a few mm from the top of the spark plug as that normally creates a HUGE spark and the engine should fire that plug.
that should yes/no the ignition system,as to why it is weak on one side.....watch next weeks exciting episode
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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rdodger
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posted on 19/11/13 at 06:57 PM |
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Any joy with this Claire?
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clairetoo
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posted on 19/11/13 at 07:40 PM |
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I've not had a chance to look at it since Sunday - I woke up Monday morning with a rotten stinking cold and have just been keeping warm since
then........
I dont think its the coil or firing order - I lifted the complete coil and leads off , connected them on my car , and it ran .
I cant find any more wires to double and triple check - the only thing I've not tried is reversing the wires to the VR sensor (I'm 100%
certain its wired right , but with nothing left to try.........)
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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avagolen
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posted on 19/11/13 at 08:30 PM |
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So frustrating.
Spent a day trying to start a rebuilt engine in a Bond Bug once.
It would fire but never run. Towing it got the exhaust manifold glowing red....
Finally traced to camshaft / distributor drive problem. We had swapped the
distributor from the old engine which which went in the other direction. Had
To swap camshaft as well..
Not helping your problem though, just thought you might like a laugh. :-)
The Answer for everything, but never the last word....
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SPYDER
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posted on 19/11/13 at 11:48 PM |
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Isn't there a feature in some flavours of Megasquirt to log the trigger output? Are the VR's identical on each car?
My MS1 V3 has two trimmers on the PCB to calibrate the VR sensor. Has your ECU got the same trimmers?
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mcerd1
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posted on 20/11/13 at 09:25 AM |
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I know its a drastic step, but its sounding more and more like the the cams since you've checked nearly everything else and its affecting the
whole bank.....
could the exhaust / inlet cams be swapped over ? (I don't know whats possible on these engines)
it might be worth taking the cam cover off just to check the actual valve timing
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mark chandler
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posted on 20/11/13 at 06:03 PM |
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So is it working now ?
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sjmatthews
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posted on 20/11/13 at 06:45 PM |
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Oh do tell
I'll be in the garage dear!
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The Black Flash
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posted on 21/11/13 at 01:01 PM |
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I've come to this late, but I would definately guess at the cam timing. It's easy to get it 180 degrees out. I'd go with the
"print out a timing wheel and check the timing with a dial gauge" approach. Or without a timing wheel, a stick down the plug 'ole
on cylinder 1 to see roughly where TDC is.
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v8kid
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posted on 21/11/13 at 01:23 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by The Black Flash
I've come to this late, but I would definately guess at the cam timing. It's easy to get it 180 degrees out. I'd go with the
"print out a timing wheel and check the timing with a dial gauge" approach. Or without a timing wheel, a stick down the plug 'ole
on cylinder 1 to see roughly where TDC is.
+1 I hate cam timing it's so easy to get it backwards.
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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The Black Flash
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posted on 21/11/13 at 01:32 PM |
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Another thing - are you batch injection or sequential? If it's sequential, then check the wiring to the camshaft sensor - the wires could be
the wrong way around, and there's no way to tell from. You just have to swap the wires round and see if it works.
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clairetoo
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posted on 22/11/13 at 10:40 PM |
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Still not running
The cam and ignition timing are good - its got fuel pressure and working injectors - a leakdown test showed all cylinders to be near as dammit the
same - and every electrical component works fine when tested on my car .
I did find one thing wrong on the wiring - the live feed to the coil was on the wrong end of the connector - but even with that sorted , it still only
ran on three.......
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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mark chandler
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posted on 23/11/13 at 09:09 AM |
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If you disconnect the injectors on the bad bank, get it running on 3 then dribble some petrol down the TB's on the dead side and it picks up you
have located as a fuelling issue.
Wasted spark with it running on one side, especially as you have tried swapping the leads around to no avail means you either have the firing order
wrong on the bad side or it's mechanical, have you had the cam cover off and looked for a broken cam maybe ?
Although painful take both cam covers off and rotate the engine by hand and verify the firing order by cam lobe position and piston position, maybe a
cam has slipped upon its pulley on the bad side?
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GeoffT
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posted on 23/11/13 at 09:29 AM |
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Maybe as a further check on firing order you could remove all the HT leads on the dead bank and whilst it's running try each lead on all the
dead cylinders in turn, just to make make doubly sure there's no combination that fires up the dead cylinders......?
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clairetoo
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posted on 23/11/13 at 09:38 AM |
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I'll say this again.......its not firing order - I fitted the coil and leads (without taking the NUMBERED leads off) to my car , which is
identical , and it fired up and ran fine .
Swapping anything around on the firing order just causes massive backfires through the throttle bodies .
[Edited on 23/11/13 by clairetoo]
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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MikeRJ
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posted on 23/11/13 at 10:09 AM |
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Which coil pack are you using?
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r1_pete
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posted on 23/11/13 at 10:23 AM |
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How is the cam sprocket and gears keyed to the camshaft? it would be worth checking they are intact, and haven't failed, or been left out and
allowing the wheels to move on the shafts.
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rdodger
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posted on 23/11/13 at 11:22 AM |
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Claire. I think we need a recap and start again.
Have you had the engine running on all 6 cylinders using parts for your car?
Have you had your car running using ecu, coils, leads, plugs etc off Matts car?
On Matts car can you get both banks running individually by swopping the leads around?
You now have a strong spark on all 6?
All 6 injectors are firing? Do they fire at the correct time?
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clairetoo
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posted on 23/11/13 at 12:03 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by MikeRJ
Which coil pack are you using?
Ford coilpack - choice of four , all work on my car , none work on Matt's
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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