moochofun
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| posted on 9/1/09 at 07:47 AM |
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1340cc Megabusa - First Start, No Spark
Gents,
Finally got to the point where I have the engine fitted into the car and all the wiring completed (except the parts described below).
First off we took the plugs out and turned the engine over for the first time. Oil pressure came up fairly quickly so all seemed well.
We put the plugs back in and turned the engine over again to start....no fire. Took plugs out and plugged them into the coils to check for spark - no
spark.
I tried looking/going over all the wiring; ECU earth, Side stand switch, clutch switch etc. No matter what I changed or tried nothing would give me a
spark. All the wires and connectors seem to be behaving as they should; 12v where 12v needs to be and earth where an earth needs to be. Even checked
to make sure the 150k Ohm resistor for the ignition was indeed a 150k Ohm one.
To give you some background: my engine is a 2008 1340cc model but seems to be the same as previous generation engines as far as the general install
goes... Same shape etc, same sensor locations etc.
I followed the Westfield Wiring Instructions that is in the build manual except I missed out the following parts:
Possible Issue #1
Part 6 - Fuel Pump. I never spliced the yellow/red wire from the Busa loom into the Westfield fuel pump fuse. I never removed the white wire and
looped it into the next fuse.
Part 9 - Fuel Pump Relay. I never removed the red/blue wire from the fuel pump relay & fuse box and also didn't connect it to the Red/White
on the starter relay.
Reason why I did this is that the car was installed with a blade (carb) engine before hand so I just kept the fuel pump wiring the same from that
install. The fuel pump works fine (new one for injection) and petrol is reaching the engine.
Possible issue #2
Part 10. Tip Over Sensor. The 08 Busa loom has three wires instead of the two as described in the westfield instructions. It does have two wires the
same colour as described but it also has a red wire in the connector as well. This red wire looks like a common (live?) as it runs to the crank sensor
and cam sensor as well. I chose not to connect the 62k Ohm resistor to the two wires but to leave the tip over sensor connected and to mount it
instead under the dash in the direction the arrow indicates as up on the sensor itself.
The other parts of the Westfield wiring instructions were completed as instructed (a couple of the wires were different colours but I referenced old
and a new 08 wiring diagram to make sure I still got the correct wire.
Other than the above I can't think of anything else. I have done a search on the forum and see that folk have had the same problem before but it
is usually in conjunction with faulty injectors or fuel pump. Nothing stand alone.
Things for me to check tomorrow (what I've though of when writing this) is:
12v at injectors? 12v at coils?
Anybody help me in my hunt for the all spark?
All help/advice/thoughts greatly appreciated.
Ta
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 9/1/09 at 07:56 AM |
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power at the coil would have been my first check tbh, but make sure you check it while the starter is spinning to.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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moochofun
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| posted on 9/1/09 at 09:12 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
power at the coil would have been my first check tbh, but make sure you check it while the starter is spinning to.
Yeah looking back this should have been the thing to do, but it was late and frustration was setting in!
The injectors are getting a live as they were clicking when the ignition was switched on. The coils 12v is also by the same wire, so my guess is there
is no signal coming from the ECU - immobilizer perhaps? It is the only unknown as I have neither the ignition barrel nor key to play/experiment
with.
I've left a message with the engine supplier so should hopefully get his expertise shortly (he advised at the time of buying that neither the
barrel or key were required).
Any other thoughts peeps?
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Triggerhappy
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| posted on 9/1/09 at 09:37 AM |
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When i did my investigation all 2008busas on all markets has the imobilizer.
I bought my engine kit complete with corrsponding keys and ignitionbarrel.
I also got the dash to read out any fault codes.
BUT im not that far in my build yet to confirm that it all works...
Will follow this with highest intresst...i will eventually be at your stage also.
Hope it resolves quickly!
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 9/1/09 at 09:50 AM |
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modern ECU's can be a pain. Mind reading about a vw camper that had a TDI fitted from a car. He actually had to have the cars instrument panel
tucked away next to the engine and still connected to get past the immobilizer. No wonder so many folk fit mega squirts or bike carbs etc
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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moochofun
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| posted on 9/1/09 at 11:48 AM |
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Just a thought, but if it is immobilzer based, would it allow the engine to turn over at all? My experience with immobilser in cars previous was that
all I would get was ignition lights, the engine wouldn't turn over at all until the immobilzer had been erm mobilized?
Spoke with the engine guru - I need to try fitting a 100k ohm resistor between two of the ignition wires. If this works this is maybe the signal that
the ECU needs to see (i.e. from the ignition barrel with the key in) before applying th power to the coils?
Will let ye's know how I get on.
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moochofun
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| posted on 9/1/09 at 05:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chris mason
just too confirm what your gura has said, it should be a 100 resistor, or at least that's what i've always used and my 2008 ign barrel is
telling me 
Chris
Oh pi$h, I've just went and bought a 100 Kilo Ohm (100,000) resistor - should it be just a 100 Ohm resisitor? I've not installed it yet so
no great worries as yet....
[Edited on 9/1/09 by moochofun]
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moochofun
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| posted on 10/1/09 at 11:44 PM |
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I finally got it sorted this afternoon and got the engine up and running . I spoke with the boyo that supplied my engine again today after the 100ohm
resistor didn't change anything, and he turned out to be a massive help - thanks Malc!
Basically the outcome is that if you're installing an 08 Busa motor into your car, only a couple of the steps in the Westfield wiring
instuctions are compatible. I don't know what Suzuki has changed from previous years but no matter what I tried I couldn't get a spark
(lack of signal from the ECU to coils).
Boy does it sound good.....
Thanks all for the input/help
Ross
PS Chris, you can ignore my U2U plea for help now!
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Triggerhappy
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 11:37 AM |
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There would be very interesting to know what modifications are needed to loose the original ignition key.
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Jason Fletcher
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| posted on 12/1/09 at 10:20 PM |
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There's no resistor in the 2008 busa ignition switch. That was only there to confuse the thief when trying to hotwire the thing and the new
immobiliser does an even better job. So unless you have a US spec engine without a immobiliser then the resistor needs to come out.
Jason
Edited to say that I didn't read the post where you said you got it running, sorry. So what actualy made it run and have you got a UK spec
engine with the chipped keys and chip reader that goes on the ignition barrel?
J
[Edited on 12/1/09 by Jason Fletcher]
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88musar88
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| posted on 23/4/13 at 08:39 AM |
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Hi,
I have the same issue as above, what was the solution?
Neil
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