aerosam
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posted on 30/3/09 at 12:06 PM |
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Why oh why did I bother???
Why did I even bother with a TIG welder? This morning I have got the MIG welder that was given to me by Wyn (aka lsdweb) working again and had a go at
welding on some spare tube.
MY GOODNESS HOW EASY IT WAS!!!
I've lost count of the number of chassis tubes I've had to cut out and re-make because my TIG welder blew a hole in them.
I'll definitely be using the MIG for the rest of the chassis. However I must say that I have noticed that the TIG welds are a quite a bit
prettier.
Lesson learned.
Had enough of this dictatorship known as LCB. Gone elsewhere, not coming back. Kiss my ass ChrisW.
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lsdweb
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posted on 30/3/09 at 12:26 PM |
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I'm glad it works!
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mark chandler
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posted on 30/3/09 at 12:29 PM |
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You blew the hole, not the TIG welder D:
Yes Mig is fast and efficient but TIG is so much cleaner, no little holes in clothes, except when you grind away.
If you are blowing holes with TIG it sounds like you are not moving the torch back and adding rod to the pool, also the rod cools the pool so maybe
just going a little to slowly or to much heat in one spot.
TIG also like to be horizontal so you have to keep moving the chassis around, MIG is all directions even from underneath until you get a fizzler in
you ear!!!
You need to persevere with TIG until you hit eureka, then it all starts falling into place..
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Howlor
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posted on 30/3/09 at 12:36 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by mark chandler
TIG also like to be horizontal so you have to keep moving the chassis around, MIG is all directions even from underneath until you get a fizzler in
you ear!!!
All been there and suffered the above, others to include are:-
Top of shoe, through sock!
Top of head when a spark lands against the mask bar.
Steve
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02GF74
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posted on 30/3/09 at 12:50 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by mark chandler
TIG also like to be horizontal so you have to keep moving the chassis around, MIG is all directions even from underneath until you get a fizzler in
you ear!!!
tell me aqbout it!!! I was welding bracket to underside of land rover bumper and got a molten lump in the left ear!!! as ^^^ say, you cna hear it
fizzling!!! really thought I had damaged my earing but seems ok.
now I owuld always put in a moisten wad of tissue before attempting something like that.
oh, and you can get good looking MIG welds, needs top quality equipment and loads of practise. I'm still on the learning curve.....
some good mig welds
here
[Edited on 30/3/09 by 02GF74]
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aerosam
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posted on 30/3/09 at 01:12 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by lsdweb
I'm glad it works!
Yeah Wyn it's great - just needed a new liner and some fresh wire.
Thanks again!
Had enough of this dictatorship known as LCB. Gone elsewhere, not coming back. Kiss my ass ChrisW.
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deezee
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posted on 30/3/09 at 01:15 PM |
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I learnt TIG for my chassis, because I had access to the equipment. I've never blown a hole in steel with it. It takes around 1 second just to
pool up nicely. What settings were you using? TIG is pretty awkward with its setting. Took me a while before I found the right mix of Argon, Amps
and tip distance from ceramic.
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Canada EH!
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posted on 30/3/09 at 03:14 PM |
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TIG is like oxy-acetelene, need lots of practice, but once you GET IT, it's the best for light work such as Locost parts.
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aerosam
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posted on 30/3/09 at 03:47 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by deezee
I learnt TIG for my chassis, because I had access to the equipment. I've never blown a hole in steel with it. It takes around 1 second just to
pool up nicely. What settings were you using? TIG is pretty awkward with its setting. Took me a while before I found the right mix of Argon, Amps
and tip distance from ceramic.
Most welds I'm fine with TIG, in fact, I'm damn proud of a lot of my TIG welding, but it's the awkward welds in corners when you
can't get the torch angle right, cant get the filler rod in right etc where I have blown holes, this is where the MIG will shine i'm
sure.
I'm using about 65A, biggest ceramic shroud i've got and 5 L/min flow of Argon. I have to turn the amps up slightly to weld in corners as
I can't get penetration on one side of the joint, this is where I blow holes.
[Edited on 30/3/09 by aerosam]
Had enough of this dictatorship known as LCB. Gone elsewhere, not coming back. Kiss my ass ChrisW.
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Hellfire
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posted on 30/3/09 at 04:04 PM |
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Now as a total ignoramus re: TIG welding (or any other type for that matter!) 5L/min????
Dear god that's never right is it?
Steve
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martyn_16v
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posted on 30/3/09 at 05:25 PM |
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5L/min is about half what you need. Whack the gas flow up to at least 8-10, and learn to accept that TIG costs you a fortune in gas
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quinnj3
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posted on 30/3/09 at 05:50 PM |
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I have used both types of welders and I have to say that Mig is p**s easy to use compared to Tig but there is no doubting that tig is so much better
looking. As said before its much better for lighter work. Its also quite a bit slower, and there is less chance of getting that fizzler.
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ashg
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posted on 30/3/09 at 07:22 PM |
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i have used the mig on my chassis for most of the fiddley bits and the tig for the other bits.
i tig on around 4-5lpm with a wp17 type torch. a good quality well designed tig torch is the trick to lo lpm
also think back and remember who told you that you need to run at 10lpm? (i bet it was your gas company or some nice person passing on the
message)
trick is to keep lowering the gas flow until you get poor welds then up the gas a little.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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Hugh Paterson
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posted on 4/4/09 at 06:23 PM |
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Power sounds about right try a smaller shroud for the tight spots, and change the tungsten for a worn out one and a smaller tungsten cover at the back
of the torch, are you welding right handed? and in what direction forward or back??
Shug
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NS Dev
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posted on 5/4/09 at 09:01 AM |
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another thing I have found, if talking the finer points of TIG use, is that a gas lens body works much better than a std collet body, and I'm
pretty sure none of the chinese tig's come with gas lens bodies in their torches?
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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