chrisjb111
|
 posted on 4/12/12 at 09:18 PM |
|
|
Part built locost with mazda 1.8
Hi all,
This is my first post so please bear with me as I am a bit of a novice.
I have just purchased a locost kit that is part built on flebay (only needs some cosmetics and a bit of fettling to finish, apparently). It is a
locost chassis made to what looks like quite a high standard with a mk1 mx5 1.8 engine, gearbox, running gear, new brakes/clutch etc, avo coilovers
and all the bodywork fitted and painted. It also came with a trailer so I thought it was worth a bash at the price I got it.
The car runns ok just not been started in a while so a bit lumpy but overall looks ok. It also came with a chassis number from the DVLA and what looks
like most of the bits to finish it.
The only worry on my mind is that if want to use it on the road then I will need to go through the IVA and from what I have read so far it sounds like
it can be a bit of a worry not to mention a costly exercise. If it looks like it will be too much hastle then I can always just use it as a track car
as I have a trailer now.
Sorry for rambling on but was just looking for any advice I can get really as I am a novice and could do with a bit of a point in the right direction
or any ideas and thoughts.
I know its a bit of a brief description of what I have got, but hopefully when I get chance to have a good poke around at it I will have a better idea
of what it is like, just not sure if there is anything in particular I should be looking for.
Any help would be most apreciated.
Thanks.
Chris.
|
|
|
|
|
Jimfin
|
| posted on 4/12/12 at 09:43 PM |
|
|
Hi Chris, I built a 750MC Locost race car and used it for track days and then chose to convert it for road use by going through the IVA process
etc.
Big part of the reason for doing that was that just going to a few trackdays was extremely expensive and constraining when I wanted to work on set up
etc. Some trackdays are open pit lane others have organised session so you get 20 minutes every hour so typically a maximum of 7 X 20 minutes = 2hr
20min running time for your day - also you might find that not all trackdays accept unregistered cars. While it seemed like a good idea at the time,
it made using the car very very restrictive. Basically, a couple of track days would have paid for the IVA!
Getting through the IVA (and registration process) requires very careful compliance with the regulations but ultimatly gives you a more flexible (and
marketable) vehicle. Apart for the IVA cost an awful lot of the effort goes into making sure detail is right - so it's about your time rather
than expense in the main. e.g. getting the edge radius correct just needs either work with a file, adding knock on edging etc. which costs not a lot.
Having a standard Mazda engine should make it "simple" to meet emmission and noise regs.
What you should try to get from the vendor is as many photos of the build underway and as many original receipts as they can handover along with the
originil Mazda V5 and VIN plate if they have them. It all helps to establish the credibility of an amateur build for the car.
I am sure there will be many other views - but thats my pennies worth.
Remember - you can still do track days with a road registered car.
|
|
|
mitch2b
|
| posted on 5/12/12 at 06:59 AM |
|
|
hi Chris,
dont want to scare you off the build but if it came from lancaster way, check the wheel studs, a friend of mine viewed one up there recently and the
"studs" were just threaded bar with nuts on,
if this is the std of the b uild so far, check with fine tooth comb that everythings done to a good std,
Mitch
|
|
|
JAG
|
| posted on 5/12/12 at 12:12 PM |
|
|
Howdy new builder
Do NOT be put off by IVA.
It can be time consuming to get all the bits in place to pass but it's not hard.
Once done you'll find it's really worth the effort and will make your whole experience so much better. Driving the car on the roads is so
much easier than trailering the car to trackdays just to get a driving fix.
The Mazda MX-5 engine is a good basis and will reward you with lot's of fun in the standard tune and if you get the bug for more power then
there's a whole world of tuning kit out there.
Get on with it and you could be on the road by Spring 
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 5/12/12 at 12:26 PM |
|
|
IVA is not as scary as you think
The manual takes a lot of interpreting so your best source of knowledge is those who have passed
Join a local club, go to kit car shows and ask a lot of questions
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
chrisjb111
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 02:07 PM |
|
|
Thank you all for the advice and comments.
I will hopefully get a chance to have a good look round it in the next week or so (the lead up to christmas is always a busy one) and let you know
what the state of it is.
I'm hoping that there isn't much left to do, fingers crossed.
Again, many thanks for the advice.
Chris.
|
|
|
chrisjb111
|
| posted on 11/12/12 at 04:12 PM |
|
|
Hi all.
Just a few quick questions regarding my build.
- Can you fit 4 point harnesses to one anchor point at the back (I have got a set that I can use but only one anchor point at the back of the
seats)?
- Are snap fit harnesses acceptable for IVA?
- Does anyone know where or if it is even possible to get rear arches that are 9.5 - 10 inch wide (the ones fitted are about 12 inch and way too
wide)?
Many thanks.
Chris.
|
|
|
Jimfin
|
| posted on 12/12/12 at 03:38 PM |
|
|
Chris,
3 point fixing is OK - see the IVA manual S19 annex 1 and S31 note 3 -
Note 3: A suitable single bolt fixing of adequate strength would be, for example, a bolt of at least 11mm (7/16" diameter of grade 8.8 (the
grade may not be shown on a bolt produced for a seat belt anchorage). Other bolt fixings may be acceptable providing they are of equivalent strength.
Two adjacent seat belts may be secured by one bolt. In this case consideration must be given to the additional loads on the anchorage
Snap fix I am not sure about, but others may know better, I went for direct bolt in as the bolts were nicely marked 8.8 - so one less item to have a
discussion about
The standard book locost arches are 9.5 inch so have a look in for sale on this forum or stick a wanted ad up and I am sure they will be forthcoming
for the appropriate number of beer tokens.
Jim
|
|
|
chrisjb111
|
| posted on 12/12/12 at 08:39 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Jimfin
Chris,
3 point fixing is OK - see the IVA manual S19 annex 1 and S31 note 3 -
Note 3: A suitable single bolt fixing of adequate strength would be, for example, a bolt of at least 11mm (7/16" diameter of grade 8.8 (the
grade may not be shown on a bolt produced for a seat belt anchorage). Other bolt fixings may be acceptable providing they are of equivalent strength.
Two adjacent seat belts may be secured by one bolt. In this case consideration must be given to the additional loads on the anchorage
Snap fix I am not sure about, but others may know better, I went for direct bolt in as the bolts were nicely marked 8.8 - so one less item to have a
discussion about
The standard book locost arches are 9.5 inch so have a look in for sale on this forum or stick a wanted ad up and I am sure they will be forthcoming
for the appropriate number of beer tokens.
Jim
Thanks Jim.
I think I will try to find a set of bolt in 3-point harnesses, it will save time in the long run.
The arches that are fitted are that wide they must have come off a truck, I'll post a wanted ad and keep my eyes open for a set.
Thanks,
Chris
|
|
|
