sooty
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posted on 2/4/13 at 04:01 PM |
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Which trailer tie-down straps you think are best. ??
I know most car recovery firms use a strapping method where you place the strap behind the top of the wheel aswell as the front, strap hooked forward
of the wheel and rachet behind to tighten.
The other I've seen is where the major car/van transporters use a method of where the strap is hooked forward of the wheel and passes through
another hook right in front of the wheel and then up and over the circumference of the tyre and down to another hook right behind the wheel and
through to the rachet.
I personally think the latter is best as it ties the wheel down square to the trailer surface not putting any strain on the suspension, where the
other tends to pull the top of the wheel out away from the suspension.
So which do you think is best or some other method to tie a car down for transport on a trailer. ??
Thanks
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coozer
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posted on 2/4/13 at 04:04 PM |
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Machine mart have some good stuff...
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/transport
[Edited on 2/4/13 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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CNHSS1
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posted on 2/4/13 at 04:10 PM |
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sort above, but get the versions that have a padded cover over both the centre tie and the eyelets or they will mark alloys
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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mad4x4
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posted on 2/4/13 at 04:18 PM |
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Watch the Overall Length of thoes IIRC if there too long the won't work
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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mark chandler
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posted on 2/4/13 at 04:28 PM |
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For myself I prefer to tie the car down solidly and rely on the trailers suspension.
I run chains through the rear wishbones to each corner and pull it down hard at the front with a winch, then add a couple of safety chains in case the
winch gives.
When I raced and trialled land rovers as the suspension was so compliant then I put spare wheels under the chassis and pulled the car down on to these
using 2" Lorry ratchet straps.
Doing this does put more strain upon the car and leads to scratching but I find it is far more stable.
If you do want to just hold by the wheels then make sure that you are not also pulling across the car, the straps must only work vertically if that
makes sense or as the cars rolls upon its suspension then straps will loosen and tighten. So this is what you are effectively doing when pulling
through additional hooks (the correct way) if the anchor points are spread far apart.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 2/4/13 by mark chandler]
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rb968
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posted on 2/4/13 at 04:34 PM |
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I have a set of these and am really happy with them.
eBay Item
Rich
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sooty
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posted on 2/4/13 at 04:57 PM |
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This is the one I personally like as it puts no strain on the suspension etc. like the other version can. ??
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX6TopKRJI0
Thanks
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JonnyS
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posted on 2/4/13 at 07:04 PM |
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I bought these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/set-of-4-car-transporter-straps-20-in-holdall/48950
Car is sold now so of no use to me. I've only used them about 5 times. Interested in buying them?
Jonny
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hillbillyracer
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posted on 2/4/13 at 07:54 PM |
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We use the strap around the back of the wheel & link piece across the front of it, no problems at all other than I expect eventually we'll
need to replace the main strap due to fatigue where it passes through the buckle of the link piece. There may be the possibility of damaging the wheel
if the spokes stand proud.
I think the over the top of the wheel is fine too if that's what you prefer & your transporter has tie-downs in the right place for them but
there is more potential for the strap to slip off the wheel if it came slack.
I really wouldn't worry about the one with the link across the wheel putting loads on the suspension, it'd only be an issue if the car was
very narrow on a wide transporter so the straps had to pull sideways a lot to reach the tie-downs. Most of the load goes fore & aft & is
contained in the wheel, if you think it may damage the suspension in some way I wouldn't have much confidence in the car cornering too well!
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