DIY Si
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 09:11 AM |
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How to board out my new garage
Morning all.
I'm coming to the point of needing to decide what I line my new garage/workshop with, and I am undecided as to what's best. This will be a
"hobby" workshop as opposed to a full time working place, but there will be welding and so on going on. If I line the walls with wood, the
welding area will be lined again with metal sheet to prevent and direct contact with splatter. Wood appeals to me the most at the moment as it's
something I can do as I go and doesn't need any outside help or time consuming processes.
The garage is 7m x 3m x 2m, so I'll be needing about 15 8'x4' sheets of whatever I go with, and cost is as always important! For
example, I don't want to put up cheap OSB if it then needs loads of expensive paint to make it look half way decent as that seems to defeat the
point of cheap wood.
11mm OSB is cheap, but could be a PITA to paint and may look rough. I'm also not sure how good it will be when I come round to putting cupboards
up.
Cheap 12mm ply is the same price, but decent ply is about £8 a sheet more expensive. Not sure how difficult either will be to paint, but should be
easier than OSB. And I know I will be able to hand anything anywhere.
Taper edged plasterboard I can put up and then maybe get someone in to do the jointing, but if I use square edge, will the entire thing need
skimming?
So either what did or would you pick, and why? Is there something out there I'm not thinking of that would be better/cheaper to use?
[Edited on 2/7/13 by DIY Si]
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 09:24 AM |
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OSB in the areas where there are no cupboards going, or even throughout. Then where the cupboards are to go, just overlay and fix a sheet of ply.
This will add more strength as well as provide a good mounting point for the cupboards.
Paint with an oil based paint, and OSB isnt too bad.
I would stay away from plasterboard, unless the garage is attached to the house, or heated.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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scrappy_7
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 09:26 AM |
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Try a farmers supplier they sell white plastic sheets to go in milking parlours easy
to put up and fully washable
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DIY Si
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 09:33 AM |
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It's a detached garage that is currently unheated but getting insulated. I hope to have a small wood burning stove in by the winter time, but
where ever that goes will be fire proofed regardless.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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HowardB
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 09:36 AM |
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25 mm / 1 inch of expanded polystyrene,.. and then low cost board,.. however don't run right to the floor so that any spills aren't
absorbed by your walls.
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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DIY Si
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 09:44 AM |
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It's already getting 100mm of Rockwool RWA45 between the studs as it is! Since the Mrs is a child minder, I've had to go a bit OTT on the
insulation. There's 220mm of loft stuff in the roof joists as it is.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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HowardB
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 09:50 AM |
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that will all help to make it easier to work all year round - cooler in the summer and warmer in winter,.. perfect,....
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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DIY Si
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 09:59 AM |
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That is very much the idea. I just need to finish the verges and the outside drainage to keep the Mrs quiet and then I might be able to get the inside
sorted.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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jossey
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 10:04 AM |
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Just doing mine.
Gone for 1mm foil insulation £26 100 sq m
That goes on wall glued. Then 2x2 timber frames then plasterboard
As above the areas that have cupboards ill put plywood under the 2x2 and the space out any none ply walls.
Ill fill the gaps with insulation roll. 200mm stuff.
Not sure how the plasterboard will get effected on cold weather but I may cover it with paper n paint.
Ill use a heater n dehumidifier in winter....
Don't ply in a damp garage....
[Edited on 2/7/13 by jossey]
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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ashg
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 10:32 AM |
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my garage is a bit bigger than yours but i went for 12mm external ply inside. managed to get the price down to about £18-20 a board in the end but i
did order 50 sheets. once it was up i painted it all with white emulsion, looks good and you can hardly see the gaps between the boards. as for
welding no issues to date.
my whole garage is timber frame and is constructed as follows. (from the inside) 12mm ply then 4X2inch frame(with rockwool in the middle) then 12mm
ply on the outside covered by a damp proof breathable membrane then batons on top then cladded in 25mm shiplap every bit of wood in it is pressure
treated and tanalised. stays warm in the winter cold in the summer. it wasn't cheap garage build but im very happy with the result.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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JoelP
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 11:08 AM |
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Plasterboard is fire retardant, which is worth bearing in mind, and around 6 pound a sheet over that quantity. You could get taper edged and fill it
yourself. It would be more prone to damage than other finishes though.
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JAMSTER
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 11:43 AM |
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give chd whittlesey a ring all they do is insulation and plaster board and plastering equipment 01733 202 299 they deliver too
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Canada EH!
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 03:19 PM |
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I have a 20' X 30' workshop, insulated 6" glassfibre in the walls, 10" glassfibre in the ceiling, sorry to scare you but it
gets down to -30 here a few times each winter.
The shop has in floor heat by hot water, but the temperature is kept a 10 C when I am using it and 5 C when not. The walls and ceiling are all what we
call dry wall a 1/2" paper covered plaster.
There has been no problems with the drywall in 6 years of use, I try to keep the humidity down to 50% which is helped by the heat source and limited
air exchange during humid summer weather.
I have welded a complete chassis in the shop and there is now the Locost and a restored 58 Sprite being re-assembled in there.
If oil based paint is still available and is used to paint the drywall it cleans up well.
The drywall is far superior as a fire supressant than any wood product I can think of.
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