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Author: Subject: Won't go from 1st to 2nd gear with out hitting neutral first??
Steve

posted on 1/6/15 at 08:26 PM Reply With Quote
Won't go from 1st to 2nd gear with out hitting neutral first??

As the subject says. It's an 89 zx10b. Also there's no travel on clutch peddle at all prob only 10 to 15mm. Is this normal??
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adithorp

posted on 1/6/15 at 09:21 PM Reply With Quote
Has the clutch always been like that? Clutch travel depends on pedal ratio and lever length (plus cylinder diameters if hydraulic) and shouldn't change unless something is bending, broken or worn. If it's always been like that look at design.

Gear change could be related or different issue. Again has it always been like that? Could be a leverage issue not giving enough throw (at the box) before the levers/pivots reach there max movement. Look for play, wear and flex and after that design.





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kj

posted on 1/6/15 at 09:23 PM Reply With Quote
Adjustments have you checked it and oil





Think about it, think about it again and then do it.

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Steve

posted on 1/6/15 at 09:28 PM Reply With Quote
Engine only been in the car 6 month not really driven it far only up and down the street.
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Steve

posted on 1/6/15 at 09:36 PM Reply With Quote
Adjustment????
I've no clue how to do this, will have to google it😉

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CosKev3

posted on 1/6/15 at 09:40 PM Reply With Quote
10-15mm travel in total on the pedal?If so deffo got something wrong quite badly there.
Is it cable or hyd clutch?
Usaully need to fit a pedal stop when fitting a bike engine in a car using a clutch pedal,as the pedal travel usaully over pulls the clutch,which can lead to damaging the clutch.
Does the pedal go solid 10-15mm from the top?Or the pedal does nothing until 10-15mm from the bottom?

Gearchange could well be your not getting enough throw going from first through neutral to second.

Sort the clutch first though before messing with your gearchange.

Pics will help people help diagnose your issues

[Edited on 1/6/15 by CosKev3]

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adithorp

posted on 1/6/15 at 09:54 PM Reply With Quote
Think from memory the ZX10b was hydraulic. It could be too big a diameter master cylinder or the push rod could be too far from the pedal pivot.

How did you decide on pedal ratio and master cylinder size?

On a BEC you really want a long travel on the clutch pedal to give you better control setting off. Short travel gives a very binary clutch (either on or off) making it very easy to stall.





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/

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Steve

posted on 1/6/15 at 10:15 PM Reply With Quote
Pedal does nothing till10-15mm from bottom and needs a lot of pressure to work the clutch. First time tried to use the clutch it just stalled the engine when I tried to put it into gear, so I bled the slave cylinder to check for air (which there was none) then it worked like it does now.
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CosKev3

posted on 2/6/15 at 06:48 AM Reply With Quote
If its totally air free/bled correctly you've got a bad mismatch between cylinders, or something is wrong inside the clutch itself.

When your pressing the pedal down is the slave cylinder pushing out but there is no feel to the pedal?

Or is the slave cylinder not starting to move out until the last 10-15mm of travel you talk about?

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adithorp

posted on 2/6/15 at 09:13 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
If its totally air free/bled correctly you've got a bad mismatch between cylinders, or something is wrong inside the clutch itself.

When your pressing the pedal down is the slave cylinder pushing out but there is no feel to the pedal?

Or is the slave cylinder not starting to move out until the last 10-15mm of travel you talk about?


Agreed.

If there is no air in the system, then there shouldn't be free play unless the slave is retracting/pushed back. So is there a return spring or something causing that? Alternative is you still have air and the free play is the air being compressed... but that would feel spongy. You need to visually check what is happening at the slave as the pedal is pushed asCosKev says.

Heavy clutch and very short throw indicate too big a master cylinder choice or too much distance between pedal pivot and push rod... or both. What diameter master have you got fitted?
The danger is you solve the play issue and then the master moves the slave too far (overthrow) and damages the clutch!

All this assumes the clutch is engaged (so it drives) when the pedal if free and dissengaged (allowing gears to be selected) when it is pressed.

[Edited on 2/6/15 by adithorp]





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/

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Steve

posted on 2/6/15 at 08:46 PM Reply With Quote
I will get all the info you've asked for this weekend and get back to you ..
Thanks for the advice so far lads

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