GeoffB
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| posted on 9/12/06 at 07:12 PM |
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blade running help needed..
Now i taken off all the airbleed system for the sva..i put back the 3 blanking plugs and the little take off union all in thier correct postions..I
now dont have a problem with it running on no matter how hot it is it just turns off straight away..
It will rev cleanly untill about 6k then if i keep pushing the throttle down it will not rev higher and it seems as though its gonna stall..if you
back off untill about 6k it just seems to stay revving at 6 ok..
i know i probably need adyno kit and rolling road but i wanna just get it working so i can drive it safely and at least keep up with traffic and not
do any damage to the engine..so that when i get reg number i csan drive it somewhere to have it tuned up.
i read all about blocking of this brass tube and raising the floats etc, etc but as i am a complete numpty when it comes to bike engines and the
haynes manual doesnt show you in complete simpleton terms like i need it.I have attached some pics so i can get some help..
1997 blade engine,standard airbox and filter standard mk manifold going into a cat then to standard mk silencer..
[img]http://Forum Code: .JPG) [/img]
straight picture of engine with airbox removed.
[img]http://Forum Code:  [/img]
Is it one of these i need to block and is there a certain way of doing it (i suppose i will do a temp test first)
[img]http://Forum Code:  [/img]
Carb balance screws.?
Forum Code: 
I think these are mixture screws..i think they only adjust at idle.?
[img]http://Forum Code:  [/img]
Do you turn these to adjust needle height to help it rev higher cleaner.if so which way?
Sorry for the long post but i wanna drive it down to dvla office for inspection asap and dont wanna have to fork out for a trailer/truck again and
then to have to pay again to have it moved to a tuners
i just want to be able to drive it without doing any damage and get home again..
Geoff
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esn163
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| posted on 9/12/06 at 07:22 PM |
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Hi yes they are the mixture screws and balancing screws. There are only three balancing screws because you set them up to the carb that hasn't
got one (carb 3 think). The mixture screws adjust the pilot jets effective up to about 3-4000 revs before main jets take over.
We are running our mixture screws at about 2 turns out ATM without blocking any extra tubes etc and seems to run fine.
The screws on the bottom of the float bowls are to drain the fuel out.
HTH
Ed
[Edited on 9/12/06 by esn163]
Indy Build Photos
** Build pages **
Photo Bucket Pics
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GavBurns
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| posted on 9/12/06 at 07:52 PM |
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Ian Gray off Stuart Taylor Motorsport told me to bolck the very middle hole.
What's the running problem, hows it running?
I think the screws in the bottom of floats are just drainage screws.
[Edited on 28/11/06 by GavBurns]
Go BEC you'll never look back (literally)!!
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stevec
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| posted on 9/12/06 at 07:54 PM |
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Mine has 3 carb ballance screws. You ballance carbs 1 and 2 with the end one. you ballance carbs 3 and 4 with the other end one and then ballance the
two pairs with the centre one.
Clear as mud eh?
Steve.
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ReMan
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| posted on 9/12/06 at 08:30 PM |
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You could "try" to raise the needle height.
To do this you need to take of the top of the carb and remove the diaphram and slide assembly as per the Haynes book.
Once you have it out, remove the needle holder with a screw as per the book.
once it's out you have 2 options...
"IF" there are multiple grooves on the needles and a clip, then set the clip so that it raises the needle.
If not then you could try and fit a set of small washers under the clips to raise the height of the needles.
There is a possibility nothing other than biggerer main jets will do , but it might be worth a try
Regards
[Edited on 10/12/06 by ReMan]
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