BATHO
|
posted on 27/4/08 at 09:23 PM |
|
|
Anti rollbars or no anti rollbars???
Hi, i,m after opinions on the advantages and disadvantages of anti roll bars front/rear and any other infomation on this subject. This is for a seven
replica.
Any help would be great!
cheers
Batho
|
|
|
nitram38
|
posted on 27/4/08 at 09:36 PM |
|
|
I would say for dry races on tarmac, yes, for general road use, No.
|
|
BenB
|
posted on 27/4/08 at 09:50 PM |
|
|
Generally I'd say a light car like a Se7en won't need an ARB, then again it depends on how you like your car sprung...
I've got firm springs and no ARB and I love it Much nicer than most tintops with soft springs and a firm ARB...
|
|
BATHO
|
posted on 27/4/08 at 09:53 PM |
|
|
Thanks but would that be yes front and rear or just front.
|
|
blakep82
|
posted on 27/4/08 at 09:55 PM |
|
|
i'm not bothering with them for the road on mine..
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
jambojeef
|
posted on 27/4/08 at 10:03 PM |
|
|
I think to limit roll they might not strictly be necessary on a 7 style car but to enable you to adjust over / understeer it seems to be a useful
addition.
If using them for this purpose you can get away with just a front ARB.
The added weight and complexity is only worth it though if you are prepared to spend time correctly setting it up at the end of the build of
course.
Geoff
|
|
JimSpencer
|
posted on 28/4/08 at 07:52 AM |
|
|
Hi
Up until this winter I've run the Striker with no front anti-roll bar, and increasingly stiffer front springs and dampers to get the roll out of
the chassis. Just changed to a front ARB and been able to soften the springs and dampers off considerably - car is much much better on the road and on
track - wish I had done it years ago!
Disadvantage is a bit of weight and some packaging issues to overcome.
Advantages are that you can have better spring and damper compliance and still limit chassis roll when 'pushing on'
And lastly - unless you are very confident in your ability to set a car up - do budget for somebody with all the right kit and/or experience to do a
full chassis set up on your car when you've finished it.
I couldn't belive the difference a set of very small, but extensive, list of changes made to how the car drives.
|
|
RazMan
|
posted on 28/4/08 at 09:38 AM |
|
|
For road use (even fast cornering) I doubt you would even need an ARB. In fact I reckon your ride suffers and becomes too harsh as a result.
Track use however would probably benefit from an ARB, but even then you need to have a fairly light one.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
Bob C
|
posted on 28/4/08 at 11:11 AM |
|
|
Rather than try to calculate "roll couples" an the like, I think the practical approach is to run with no ARBs & see if either end of
the car feels relatively short of grip. If so put an ARB on the other end to balance the handling.
I reckon 7s generally have such low COG & such stiff springing that actually reducing body roll is just not an issue.....
Bob
|
|