I have noticed that my R1 is unable to keep the coolant temperature at any reasonable level. Having read various threads it appears that 85 degrees should be ok but any reving of my engine starts the water temp to spiral rapidly

testing it today I kept the car (sitting static) at a constant 5000 rpm and the temp went up 1 degree every 10 seconds (with the fan on) and kept going up until I stopped revving @110 degrees.

I have felt all the pipes throughout the plumbing and every one is hot so it looks like the pump is circulating the water ok plus the fan seems to work as the temp started to drop (slowly) once I got the car back to idle revs.

In case you are wondering I did the test at 5000 rpm as I need to get my cat to temp for SVA retest but, with my current cooling problems, I will be boiling my coolant well before the cat gets to the correct temperature

any ideas ?

just to add my thermostat is placed in one of the pipes coming out of the top of the head so gets the water at its warmest

what fan and radiator do you have? and is this with the bonnet on or off?

also notice that you have no vents in the bonnet, are you sure the air from the fan can get out?

[Edited on 25/6/09 by Mr Whippy]

Have you tried "water wetter"?

Sounds to me like 1 of 3 things:

1. Fan blowing wrong way
2. Air Lock
3. Water/Pipework direction/flow not right

I had similar issues with the R1 and getting the airlock problem sorted means getting the header tank high. I had to unbolt it to get it right.

Hope this helps

[Edited on 25/6/09 by ChrisS]

Is your fan definately pushing the air through the rad?

There may be an airlock somewhere although if all the pipes are hot it may be unlikely. It may be worth wrapping the headers to help reduce the under bonnet temp.

And as mentioned above, ensure th ehot air can get out.

Steve

Running stationary at revs mine runns up to the fan cutting in at 105' then cones down to 100 (fan off) then goes up and down as the fan cuts in and out. The temp does climb fast as they aren't designed to rev stationary but will cope.

Either...
i, your pipe work is wrong,
ii, your rad or fan isn't big enough,
iii, you have an air lock (see i),
iv, your gauge reading isn't true.

adrian

Ive always wondered about the pipework on mine but it seems to match the original diagrams but may be worth checking out. Ive seen some with oil coolers water plumbing routed to the top hose but MNRs seem to be routed to the bottom hose not sure if this better/worse. When i had my emissions issues mine stayed around 80-90 deg at fast idle and above and it was there a good 30mins to an hour with no problems. my fan cuts in at 96 deg and never goes any hotter but is wired to the r1 fan relay and in parallel with the radiator fan switch. Have you got anti freeze in at the moment?

[Edited on 25/6/09 by bassett]

quote:

---

Originally posted by ChrisS
Sounds to me like 1 of 3 things:

1. Fan blowing wrong way


Hope this helps

[Edited on 25/6/09 by ChrisS]

---

"...but MNRs seem to be routed to the bottom hose not sure if this better/worse..."

Mine goes into the top hose. Reason I did it that way was that the hot water from the oil cooler goes through the rad' before returning to the engine. MNR's way feeds hot water back into the engine.

Fan direction won't help but shoiuld still work pushing when stationary...just not as efficient due to blade direction/shape. Really bad when moving though!

adrian

If your fan is a bit small then you could add another fan. I have two GSXR1000 fans on a polo radiator.

If you stage them (i.e. one starts at lower temperature than the other) then you get a bit more control. I haven't staged mine as I am too lazy, but I may drive one from the megasquirt when that happens.

"Idling" at 5000rpm is always going to be a challenge for your cooling system.

Matt