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SVA Piccy's NOW RE SIZED
Tinks1 - 10/4/09 at 10:02 AM

SVA on 17th some photos in my
PHOTO ARCHIVE UNDER SVA
for your comments please...Have I missed anything obvious etc

Cheers


Dangle_kt - 10/4/09 at 10:08 AM

is that a collapsable boss that the whell is on? and do you have any padding for the centre metal bit?


daniel mason - 10/4/09 at 10:10 AM

rear reflectors?


Slater - 10/4/09 at 10:16 AM

Far too clean!!!

Tie wrap bases for battery wires stuck on with sticky foam pad, I think they need to be "permantly" fixed. Either riveted or I used PU adhesive which was OK.

Cycle wing rear edge needs to be below the level of the wheel centre. Take some home made mud flaps to stick on if he spots this. My tester didn't spot it on mine.


iank - 10/4/09 at 10:17 AM

It will need some edge trim around the harness triangles.
Steering wheel pad?
Is the shock adjuster sharp?
Can he get his ball on the cap head holding on the exhaust, or the sharp looking ally plate (Exhaust1)
They might not like the (pipe foam) on the bottom of the headlights as it looks a bit temporary.

Other than that looks a nice neat job.


craig1410 - 10/4/09 at 10:43 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Slater
Cycle wing rear edge needs to be below the level of the wheel centre. Take some home made mud flaps to stick on if he spots this. My tester didn't spot it on mine.


I'm not trying to pick an argument but I think the actual requirement is that when viewed from above, the tyre must be covered by the trailing edge of the cycle wing. I evaluated mine simply by putting the car on level ground and bringing my large square up against the back of the tyre. If it touched the tyre before arch then it is a fail, if it touches the arch before tyre then it's a pass.

As for the front edge of the cycle wing, it needs to cover the wheel (not tyre) when viewed from above.

That's my understanding but of course if you do what you have suggested then by definition you will have satisfied the criterion above. From your pics I think you'll be fine.

I agree that your harness upper triangles will need edge trim - I used the thin plastic edging normally used for sheet metal edges. It expands up to fit the harnesses and with a small amount of super glue will stay in place.

I also agree that the grey foam on the suspension upper balljoint and under the headlight mount looks temporary. I would wrap this in self amalgamating tape rather than using tie-wraps. Don't use insulating tape though, must be self amalg.

Cheers,
Craig.

[Edited on 10/4/2009 by craig1410]


Tinks1 - 10/4/09 at 10:52 AM

Rear Reflectors are around brake lights inner set.
Putting Seirra steering wheel on for test.


ReMan - 10/4/09 at 11:14 AM

AFAIK the mudguard only has to cover the RIM in plan view.

[Edited on 10/4/09 by ReMan]


Xtreme Kermit - 10/4/09 at 11:22 AM

I would watch out for the mirror falling off at an inopportune moment.

I have the same one on my windscreen at the bottom, and every few weeks it decides it has had enough and throws itself into the passenger footwell


MautoK - 10/4/09 at 11:49 AM

The width of the mudguard must cover the tyre (including sidewalls) in plan view - I had a few mm of sidewall visible and had to 'adjust' the stays to comply.
The leading edge of the mudguard must be forward of the rim.
Not sure about the back edge (re. above/below axle)
John.


quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
AFAIK the mudguard only has to cover the RIM in plan view.

[Edited on 10/4/09 by ReMan]


adithorp - 10/4/09 at 01:57 PM

Looks very tidy.

Just a couple of things...
Edge trim on harness ends. I used small edge trim and tucked the ends in under the belt loop.
Pipe insulation on front suspention. Think someone tried this last week and failed.


Humbug - 10/4/09 at 04:55 PM

Foam and cable ties on the suspension may not be "permanent" enough.

Are the front indicators high enough, close enough to the outside edge and visible from the required angles?


richard - 10/4/09 at 09:43 PM

Nice car.
For our shocks I cut up a old inner tube into one inch strips about 9 inches long.
One end i stuck with evostick to the top of the shock and then progressivly wound round gluing to itself and managed to cover all the sharp bits at top and then did the same in the other 3 places on both shocks.
For the top ball joint i used a cable gland cat at both ends, stretched over the threaded bit and the wishbone, held it self all this time to stop water getting in.
Good luck


Valtra - 11/4/09 at 10:52 PM

Headlamp bracket could do with some edge trim but nice looking car very neat . tester will like it good luck