IVA retest issues - before / after.
stevegough - 23/1/11 at 10:57 PM
Ok, following this earlier post of mine: Fail list
I have now completed the fixes -and as posts are better with pics - here we go.....
Bias bar now lockwired:
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VIN position was not to his liking:
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Foglight - wrong lens - see also thread: foglight
Now much better:
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Steering column extension bolts have no locking device: now nylocked:
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Diff rear mount - only 2 bolts:
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and after....
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Rear camber adjuster locknuts hand tight - and better with 2 each side... Silly mistake - didn't tighten them up after setting the camber!
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Here is one I have never come across - he reckoned with the Sierra front upright 'mushroom' converters only being held in with the 12mm
pinch bolt (secured with a nyloc) there is a possibility of it coming out, so drill and fit a bolt as a secondary locking device. -Was easy enough -
8.8 grade M8 30mm bolt and nyloc inside.
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Horn wire exposed and uninsulated:
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Advised to change the wheelnuts:
The dished washers didn't tighten up - they were the wrong shape.
Fitted these instead...
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Sharp edges: Wishbone bracket not covered sufficiently here...
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Replaced with edge trim:
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Not happy with no cover under wiper motor:
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So this is the 'after'...
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And a couple of other jobs I haven't photographed:
Exhaust clamp and stud sharp edges sorted, and the handbrake cable blob of weld had pulled off - fixed with electrical connector blocks as advised by
a couple of other Locosters on here.
As always, comments are invited,
[Edited on 24/1/11 by stevegough]
blakep82 - 23/1/11 at 11:09 PM
i worry that you might need longer studs on those wheels, they normally like to see the stud sick out the end of the nut by a few threads dont
they?
though it don't know how that works with the closed end type of nuts, but they don't look right to me i'm afraid
RichardK - 23/1/11 at 11:10 PM
Mostly looking good mate, the two things I would pick up on would be the wheel nuts, I think longer studs are required as they tend to like to thread
popping out of the end, and the self adhesive foamy stuff I doubt would be deemed permanent.
I did sva and dont know much about iva so could be talking sh1te as usual, if I am please ignore me.
Cheers
Rich
Yazza54 - 23/1/11 at 11:19 PM
Another vote on changing the studs here, they look worryingly short. Everything else looks good.
adithorp - 23/1/11 at 11:25 PM
If those are slieve nuts then they go a long way down the stud and it's deceptive how many threads they're on. Tester might want to check
the number of threads though. Mushroom insert securing is a regular one. The original shocks had a fin in the slot that secured on the pinch bolt for
the same reason. Did it pass OK on the padding on the chassis? Rest looks good to me.
Davg - 23/1/11 at 11:39 PM
Yep with the above re the nuts, other point you will need to cover the top ball joint locknut, slit a bit of rubber hose should do.
cheers atb
D
Daddylonglegs - 23/1/11 at 11:41 PM
Another one for longer studs I'm afraid 
Sorry.
Dan. - 23/1/11 at 11:49 PM
thanks for posting, the odd bit of info for getting mine ready for iva 
Davegtst - 23/1/11 at 11:53 PM
Whats with the diff mounts? Do they all need the plate on the back. Mine only has the 2 long bolts through it.
stevegough - 24/1/11 at 08:21 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Davegtst
Whats with the diff mounts? Do they all need the plate on the back. Mine only has the 2 long bolts through it.
As I said in the failure list thread, my Luego chassis came with the square plate - I naturally interpreted having the plate as the rear
mount for the diff, and fitted it as it was on the Sierra. IVA inspector picked up that I had only fitted two out of the four bolt holes and
demanded the other two. Most kit car builders use the front fittings only - and I'm sure a few guys who have passed would be happy to
confirm this
stevegough - 24/1/11 at 09:04 AM
First off, I've removed that mahoosive pic of the original wheelnuts as it was boogering up the thread!
Most of you have pointed out the wheelnuts not looking right - can see what you mean - the harsh shadows on the photo make it look worse than it is -
as adithorp says though, they are pretty long nuts - I will count how many turns they are on later this morning and put it on here.
The bottom line is that the original wheelnuts (which were the closed-in type) were not a fail, only an 'advisory point' on the fail list.
If he's not happy with these (which I think 'seat' better) I can always replace the originals.
RichardK (knobhead) - how do you rise to that dizzy status?
- And adithorp - pointed out the foamy stuff - I presume you mean the bit I've put
around the ends of the chassis tubes alongside the upper suspension brackets? It was on at the IVA, and David pointed out the susp brackets only - he
never mentioned the foamy bit on the tubes - I think they are a good radius anyway - partly down to the immense thickness of the powdercoating!
Daveg - you are right - the tester did mention the front camber adjuster locknuts - he demonstrated that they aren't contactable with the 100mm
'knee' because of the wing stay - not too clear on that photo.
As usual, thanks for all your constructive comments - I'll go and have another look at the wheelnuts now.
Regards, Steve.
martyn_16v - 24/1/11 at 09:14 AM
It doesn't help at all, but I passed with no extra bolts threaded into my mushrooms and the VIN no in exactly the same place as yours. Go
figure...
stevegough - 24/1/11 at 09:23 AM
quote:
Originally posted by martyn_16v
It doesn't help at all, but I passed with no extra bolts threaded into my mushrooms and the VIN no in exactly the same place as yours. Go
figure...
Sounds like something we are all aware of, Martyn - consistant inconsistantcy. Like the DVLA! - Who is my next enemy.
stevegough - 24/1/11 at 09:38 AM
Just checked - there are 8 full turns on the front wheelnuts, and 11.5 on the rear.
monopoot - 24/1/11 at 09:58 AM
Just take some off cuts (half an inch) from a bolt with the same thread as the wheel nuts and screw them in the remaining thread of the nut. The
tester will see some thread sticking out but not that it is a loose piece inserted there...
Daddylonglegs - 24/1/11 at 10:17 AM
quote:
Originally posted by monopoot
Just take some off cuts (half an inch) from a bolt with the same thread as the wheel nuts and screw them in the remaining thread of the nut. The
tester will see some thread sticking out but not that it is a loose piece inserted there...
Oooh! you naughty thing 
stevegough - 24/1/11 at 10:38 AM
quote:
Originally posted by monopoot
Just take some off cuts (half an inch) from a bolt with the same thread as the wheel nuts and screw them in the remaining thread of the nut. The
tester will see some thread sticking out but not that it is a loose piece inserted there...
Good idea - as long as he doesn't ask me to unscrew one!
stevegough - 24/1/11 at 12:02 PM
Update - as I am not happy with the wheelnuts, just ordered some longer studs.
A1 - 24/1/11 at 12:44 PM
i thought theyd revised the manual to say that the area within open front wheels were exempt from sharp edges?
coozer - 24/1/11 at 12:51 PM
Now now boys...
I had to do the mushroom retention thing to mine back in 2008 for SVA.
stevegough - 24/1/11 at 06:00 PM
quote:
Originally posted by A1
i thought theyd revised the manual to say that the area within open front wheels were exempt from sharp edges?
I don't follow? The issue with the wheels is the wheelnuts, not sharp edges.
rusty nuts - 24/1/11 at 07:35 PM
Surprised that the tester failed the steering column UJ for not having a locknut, Fords never fitted them on a Sierra. I modified my nose cone and
put a bulge on either side to cover the front of the chassis.
wicket - 24/1/11 at 09:40 PM
Some useful info here about wheel nuts and thread engagement.
http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/htmlpages/TechWheels.htm
We had to remove a nut at the test to prove the thread engagement.
chunky2772 - 24/1/11 at 10:02 PM
Im pleased ive seen the mushroom fix because i aint done that to mine (i had better get it done or that would be a fail for me!) thanks for that.
stevegough - 25/1/11 at 01:09 PM
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Surprised that the tester failed the steering column UJ for not having a locknut, Fords never fitted them on a Sierra. I modified my nose cone and
put a bulge on either side to cover the front of the chassis.
The actual wording on the fail sheet was "steering column upper clamp bolts not using a locking device". The problem was the two bolts
should have been secured by tabs (under the bolt heads) and these tabs had both broken off. My solution was to fit longer bolts, then secure with
nylocs.
Interesting and useful information in that link there, Wicket - where is that info taken from? - my nuts are certainly more than the 6 turns - but as
some others have pointed out, it looks bad - and the front wheels look even worse - you can hardly see the end of the bolt!
adithorp - 25/1/11 at 01:22 PM
When mine was SVAd, the tester (Dave at Chadderton) mentioned my column clampbolt wasn't locked. I told him it had loctight like every Ford on
the road and he passed it but said it might be worth sticking a lock nut on the end just for peace of mind.
designer - 25/1/11 at 01:26 PM
Bias bar - no threads protruding from bolt
Steering column extension bolts - looks bad with the cut off nut. Can't you reverse to make it look better?
Diff. bolts - way too long and not secure.
Camber locknuts - Not secure and no thread protruding from nut.
Wheelnuts - longer studs required as no thread protruding from nut
Mix - 25/1/11 at 05:38 PM
Hi
I think this is an excellent post - it has prompted constructive criticism based on the informative photographic content and will assist others in the
future I'm sure.
Agree with the comments on the wheel nuts, (getting longer studs), and the steering column joint can be better sorted by the use of spacers and longer
bolts rather than grinding down nylocs, (my opinion).
Regards Mick
stevegough - 27/1/11 at 08:24 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Mix
Hi
I think this is an excellent post - it has prompted constructive criticism based on the informative photographic content and will assist others in the
future I'm sure.
Agree with the comments on the wheel nuts, (getting longer studs), and the steering column joint can be better sorted by the use of spacers and longer
bolts rather than grinding down nylocs, (my opinion).
Regards Mick
Nice comment, 'Mr Mix with the lips' - thank you.
After a bit of agonising - time running short etc, and taking the collective advice from you guys on here, I have gone and changed the 40mm studs for
some 63mm ones would have been better in - between but the only other size I could find was a 47mm - not really enough.
Picture?
Naturally. Bit long now - do you think it might be a problem tomorrow? ( retest at 2:30 ).
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stevegough - 27/1/11 at 08:27 PM
By the way, its my birthday (21 again!) - want to see the cake my daughter - in - law made for me?
I was pretty chuffed - tasted nice, too!
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Rallye_Mark - 27/1/11 at 09:11 PM
Not enough thread protrusion on the cake wheel studs.
stevegough - 28/1/11 at 08:35 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Rallye_Mark
Not enough thread protrusion on the cake wheel studs.
Don't worry, it'll be eaten long before the IVA man sees it!
welderman - 28/1/11 at 09:03 AM
When is the big IVA day
stevegough - 29/1/11 at 07:13 PM
quote:
Originally posted by welderman
When is the big IVA day
er- yesterday!
