Hi..
I was wondering if anyone here could give me the thumbs up with my eye bolts ..
Did them ages ago and now wondering if they need a hole in the top so Mr IVA man
can see that they are threded all the way through .. (getting ready to paint it)
chheers all
Jon

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Take a spanner with you then you can take them out and show the tester
just my own thought sure someone will say if im wrong
Ray

Not sure, but doesn't the cross bar have to be the same diametter as the roll over bar, did on SVA because that was one of my fail points. Ray

says in the manual, threaded bushes have to be welded at both sides of the tube, so they have to pass the whole way through the tube they're in.

interestingly though, it doesn't say what happens if you just weld the eye bolts to the tube, with no threaded bit, which is how my chassis was done before i got it (wasn't built as a kit car though)


All Vehicles
What to look for:

Evidence that anchorages in a vehicle of the same, or a very similar type have been subjected to a seatbelt anchorage strength test to “European Standards” by a recognised authority. This may be acceptable where there is clear evidence that the structure is identical to the vehicle originally tested.

Welding should appear neat and of good quality; whilst it is impossible to judge the quality of a weld just by looking at it, messy welding is rarely strong welding.

Bolts used in structural areas should be of grade 8.8 or better. Such bolts will be marked 8.8 or 12.9 on the hexagonal head, however, cap-head bolts or 7/16" ( 11mm ) UNF seat belt anchorage bolts (with an anodised finish) not marked in this way may normally be considered to be of equivalent strength. Bolts should be M8 or larger.

Threaded bushes should be welded (at both ends) through the tube, and not end mounted on the surface. (A threaded bush may be attached by its side surface to a structural component).

page 156 of the link below

[Edited on 14/8/11 by blakep82]