Well i have my IVA a week today, still got a couple of jobs left to do but the car is currently with Danny at MK getting the emissions set up ready.

I was wondering if you could look at the photos and let me know if you can see anything i may have missed, the jobs i know about are the following:

the fog light - got one to fit when i get it back
Steering wheel - getting a sierra one fitted
Back Panel - All made up ready to bolt on

Long time since i did mine but would question the radius on bottom of the dash.

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Originally posted by madteg
Long time since i did mine but would question the radius on bottom of the dash.

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Nice Build, Is the edge of your headlamp mounting 2.5mm radius & lower edge of dash 19mm

reverse?

Where is that battery cutoff switch located? The key wont pass the radius test I guess...

Yes it has electric reverse, how do I measure te radius myself to check these?

Also is it true that you have to make a bracket so you cant change your digi dash function while driving?

Most of your radius have to be 2.5mm (same as a 5mm drill bit & the bottom of the dash must be no less than a 38mm rod/pipe cut in half (pipe lagging won't do)

Seat belt mounts need covering. Not sure about the side panel radius where it sits on top of the chasis rail,i would puta cope moulding on to make sure and finish it off. Not sure but the top ball joints may need a cover. Apparently some people have failed on the side repeaters positioned where you have them. If you were to turn the steering they may not be visable at all angles. Let me know what they did to get the emissions down, I'm doing mine at the moment which will hopefully be the last job before my iva.

[Edited on 9/7/12 by Davegtst]

How are the mushrooms fixed to the uprights? If you haven't done it already they will need a second form of fixing so it doesn't just rely on being clamped in place by the pinch bolt.

I'd add some bigger trim and soft stuff to the bottom of the dash. It either needs the 19mm radius or be soft....

You should be ok with side repeaters, we passed with them there....

Digidash, if you can, cover it up.... I never did on the acewell but he didnt check.

[Edited on 9/7/12 by eddie99]

Rear tyres are rotating the wrong way, switch left and right.

Agree with comments above on the indicators and dash bottom.

7.
The instrument panel lower edge within the “specified zone” must have a radius of curvature not less than 19mm or 5mm and covered with a non-rigid material. Except where an adaptation for a disabled person makes it impossible to comply. (see note 7)

I doubt the rubber edging would be A; 5mm rad and B; classed as covered with a non rigid material'

Pushrod bases are expempt from radious as they fall with in the 'volume' created by the extents of the suspension arms/wishbones.

I think I would be inclinded to pannel the underside of the fuse/cut off as the stick on foam isnt very permanant and as mentioned, key may faile radius test.

What fucntion of digi dash do you mean? Speed must always be displayed.

front flexi brake hose must not contact wing stay on full lock

my harneses failed because you are unable to adjust the waist belt wilst starped in the car !!!

i was told by demon tweeks caterham had this isue so the had sabelt make diffrent belts for them and if you look at pics in the demon tweeks catalouge you will see that there the only ones with the adjuster in the middle ...

gbs have now altered there belts to the same method aswell ...

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Originally posted by parkiboy

Also is it true that you have to make a bracket so you cant change your digi dash function while driving?

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Hi
Nice car
I would say
You need to cover all edges to the fibreglass seats especially where the seat belts go through.
We used the edge trim with the metal grips & glued ( belt & braces), we also used this around the edge of the headlamp mounting glued & held on with a cable tie
Is the petrol cap tethered ?
Is the fog light mounted horizontally ?
Mushroom secondary fixing, was mentioned on our 1st fail. easy job , just drill & tap 4 or 5mm fit short bolt with loctite.
as mentioned dash bottom edge radius & kill switch.
see our archive picts.
good luck
René

Yep - definitely do the bottom of dash.

Secondary lock bolt on sierra uprights (drill straight through the upright and the wishbone and put a bolt and nyloc in.) - this is not always insisted on, but I failed my IVA on this.

The area with the ECU etc - is it above passenger footwell? - if so, the key in the killswitch is going to hit a leg / knee - they won't allow it. Also, as has been said - the spongey covers would be deemed inadequate (I used it to cover some chassis corners and was told it wasn't 'permanent enough'. Better to cover with a ply panel. (By the way - do the hazards still function with the killswitch off? 'cos that's a no-no...but I'm sure you know that.

Another couple of points - what radius is the bottom edge of the rear panel? I can't recall but I think it has to be 2.5mm here.
Check the positioning of your cycle wings against the IVA regs - the trailing edge may not be quite far enough down (I may be wrong with this, but better to point it out now than say after "I thought it looked out on your pre-iva photos"


On a positive note, it looks a superrb quality build which you should be well proud of - it also sets a good impression with the IVA man which can't hurt!

Good luck!

[Edited on 10/7/12 by stevegough]

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Originally posted by stevegough
Check the positioning of your cycle wings against the IVA regs - the trailing edge may not be quite far enough down (I may be wrong with this, but better to point it out now than say after "I thought it looked out on your pre-iva photos"

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Originally posted by loggyboy

quote:

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Originally posted by stevegough
Check the positioning of your cycle wings against the IVA regs - the trailing edge may not be quite far enough down (I may be wrong with this, but better to point it out now than say after "I thought it looked out on your pre-iva photos"

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I thought this too, but upon checking the regs the regs are 30degrees forward of vertical centre around the centre of the wheel and 50 degrees rear wards, which looks to be achieved on the arches (must be about 30-40 forward, and 90 rearward)

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Originally posted by stevegough
I was looking at the position of the horizontal line drawn from the rear of the wing - this has to pass some way below the centre of the wheel - I can't recall how far.

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Thanks for all your replies guys you have all been a big help, I havent had change to reply sooner as I am on 24 hour call so when I'm not working I'm in the garage with the car, it's fallen at a bad time and I have really been struggling to find the hours to do the work!

However I am getting there an am addressing all the comments listed above, I ended up buying a new dash from mk with the correct radius however I could only get a gastly red one on such short notice, it will do for the test then I'll wrap in in black vinyl afterwards, while the car was at mk they were concerned about the radius of the digi dash so I am sinking it in so there is no radius to worry about.

I'm hoping to have it finished Saturday so I'll get some more photos up and see if any last minute changes are needed on Sunday!

Thanks again and wish me luck :-)

Luck!

Good luck! What did MK have to do to get the emissions down?

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Originally posted by Davegtst
Good luck! What did MK have to do to get the emissions down?

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*Update*

Bit of an update of the new dash and fuse cover - guessing all is ok there now? Theres been alot of stressing over all this last minute work but im nearly there!

Those are excellent fixes in such a short timeframe. That dash looks reet great! Best of luck on monday! - up at 5 am is it?

Haha not far off aiming to leave the house around 6.30; have to be there for 8.30 and it's 1 hour 15 away do gives me plenty of time to allow for traffic etc

I can't believe the hoops they make one jump through for these IVA's

Just got back from the test and it failed on emissions which is bloody annoying as i took it to MK to set it up, they think either the power commander somehow lost its map or there equipment needs calibrating.

There were aswell of a couple of little niggles i could have sorted while i was there to get it through if it was not for the emissions but since it was not passing i figured i'd sort it at home.

I trailered the car there so i knew it was 100% getting there because the car had not been road tested and i didnt want to brake down on the way. i braved the rain on the way home and drove it home all seems spot on, had no problems or niggles at all so i think ill drive it to my retest which will hopefully be next week!

Hard luck... but thats not bad as fails go.

What were your emmisions figures? The car emmision test on a BEC can be hit and miss to pass and (to be fair to MK) it can easily read right one time and not the next.

Fast idle 1 co2 was 3.96
Fast idle 2 co2 was 2.28
Natural idle test co2 was 1.97

Readings were really high, seemed to be running really rich.

Should that be co not co2? After setting mine up I have got it to 0.1 co but that was with the fuel pressure turned right down to 23psi.
Do mk use a gas analyser or is it just guesswork? Real shame you didn't get through.

sorry yes its co thats what i meant. Do you have a power commander? after i get it sorted this time i could send you the map?


[Edited on 16/7/12 by parkiboy]

No not a power commander but similar system called a healtech fi tuner and a fuel pressure regulator. Probably would be a good idea to take it to a friendly local mot station and get it checked properly or take it back to mk and get them to sort it. You did pay them to sort the emissions after all. Youre welcome to use my gas analyser but it's a bit of a trek for you.

thanks for the offer but ill just get MK to double check it once its done and hope it doesnt adjust by the time i get to its retest!

Sounds like a damn good fail to me! - Dare I say "well done that man?"

What were the 'niggles' ?

How long did you spend getting the cat' hot?

It can take quite a while at quite a lot of revs to get the cat to "light up", especially if there's no heat shield or wrap to keep the heat in.

What were your HC and lambda readings?

He seemed to try his best to get it to warm up and tested it several times the guy is spot on at Nottingham he does anything he can to help you! I'm driving it to the retest so the cat should be nice and hot then!

Here is a full list just how it reads on the ticket first values being what it should be, can I ask what is hc?

Fast idle speed 1
Co 0.20 3.96 fail
Hc 200 251 fail
Lambda 0. 97 1.03 0.882 fail

Fast idle speed 2
Co 0.20 2.28 fail
Hc 200 170 pass
Lambda 0.97 1.03 0.930 fail

Natural idle test
Co 0.30 1.97 fail

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Originally posted by stevegough
Sounds like a damn good fail to me! - Dare I say "well done that man?"

What were the 'niggles' ?

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quote:

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Originally posted by parkiboy

quote:

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Originally posted by stevegough
Sounds like a damn good fail to me! - Dare I say "well done that man?"

What were the 'niggles' ?

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Because the steering column is adjustable it can be dropped to the chassis do the adjuster needs cutting off
Fuel cap needs to be tethered
Bit of sanding and trim to put on the seats (he offered to give me some edging if I didn't have enough!)
Speedo needed changing from kph to mph (2 min job forgot to do it of I'm honest)

The Front indicators were 10mm too low too but we just bent the extension bar up during the test for it to pass, they will "fall off" after the test anyways lol

But other than that which could have all been done there it was all spot on!

[Edited on 16/7/12 by parkiboy]

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quote:

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Originally posted by stevegough

quote:

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Originally posted by parkiboy

quote:

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Originally posted by stevegough
Sounds like a damn good fail to me! - Dare I say "well done that man?"

What were the 'niggles' ?

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Because the steering column is adjustable it can be dropped to the chassis do the adjuster needs cutting off
Fuel cap needs to be tethered
Bit of sanding and trim to put on the seats (he offered to give me some edging if I didn't have enough!)
Speedo needed changing from kph to mph (2 min job forgot to do it of I'm honest)

The Front indicators were 10mm too low too but we just bent the extension bar up during the test for it to pass, they will "fall off" after the test anyways lol

But other than that which could have all been done there it was all spot on!

[Edited on 16/7/12 by parkiboy]

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As you said - all easy fixes you could have done on the day.....shame about the emissions, but there again - should have gone CEC not BEC!! (Its a CAR.....not a 4-wheeled beancan!)

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Well the rest are easy enough fixes.

HC is hydro-carbons measured in parts/million and is basically a measure of un-burnt fuel. Overall I'd say that was running rich rather than the cat not ho (altough that might not be helping)t. High CO, high HC and low Lambda all point towards that.

A couple of other things worth noting...
Holding the revs and throttle steady during the test isn't easy and variations effect the readings. Try using the idle screw to speed it u.p
My fan was cutting in and out on my first test and making it hard (failed) so for retest I'd wired in an override switch and kept it on.
If you've been doing lots of running in the workshop it might benfit from a new set of plugs as there performance is affected by that and the don't seem to recover.

Did you have a laptop with the P/Commander software with you? Then you can tweek it at the test should it need it

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Originally posted by adithorp
Well the rest are easy enough fixes.

HC is hydro-carbons measured in parts/million and is basically a measure of un-burnt fuel. Overall I'd say that was running rich rather than the cat not ho (altough that might not be helping)t. High CO, high HC and low Lambda all point towards that.

A couple of other things worth noting...
Holding the revs and throttle steady during the test isn't easy and variations effect the readings. Try using the idle screw to speed it u.p
My fan was cutting in and out on my first test and making it hard (failed) so for retest I'd wired in an override switch and kept it on.
If you've been doing lots of running in the workshop it might benfit from a new set of plugs as there performance is affected by that and the don't seem to recover.

Did you have a laptop with the P/Commander software with you? Then you can tweek it at the test should it need it

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