What's the best approach to steering wheels and IVA?
It was suggested to me that I'm best to leave my donor (Sierra) wheel on for IVA as it's nice and padded, however this is pretty big
restricting knee room for getting in an out of the car and it means I will probably need to make two dashboards since I'll need to put
instruments in a different position for a smaller wheel.
What's your experience? Will aftermarket wheels pass IVA?
Thanks.
quote:
Originally posted by Rosco
What's the best approach to steering wheels and IVA?
It was suggested to me that I'm best to leave my donor (Sierra) wheel on for IVA as it's nice and padded, however this is pretty big restricting knee room for getting in an out of the car and it means I will probably need to make two dashboards since I'll need to put instruments in a different position for a smaller wheel.
What's your experience? Will aftermarket wheels pass IVA?
Thanks.
The problem with asking this question on here, is that it has been asked before, and the answer is usually, "don't use an aftermarket wheel,
it will fail and you'll be killed to death. You must fit a sierra wheel", which simply isn't true
Below you'll see a link to the iva manual, have a look on there, I think its under protective steering? I cant remember the wording, but
it'll tell you what you need to know.
You may possibly have to get info from the wheel manufacturer to confirm certain standards to make things easier, but theres no reason why it
won't pass as long as the iva guidelines are met
I popped into my local vosa and asked them the very same question..
the first pointed out in the IVA bible that unless the steering wheel fitted has a certificate to prove that it conforms to the steering column fitted
blah blah blah go with the factory sierra one...
another time i went in i spoke to a different inspector and showed him some pics on my phone of my 10inch mountney with a centre pad and he said its a
pass...
either way for my test i'm packing my wagon wheel sized sierra just in case i get the other guy..
found it...
Steering wheel construction
It is vital that the wheel is constructed so as to minimise the risk of facial injuries or concussion. The rim of the wheel should be padded or at
least made from a material which when deformed does not splinter or fragment. The centre boss should be padded or recessed below the level of the rim.
Wheels with a very deep dish are stiffer than flatter wheels and, as such will absorb less energy.
The centre boss will often be of a collapsible type comprising a convoluted crushable section or a series of metal fingers with a deliberate fold
introduced to initiate a collapse.
Bolts used to secure the wheel to its boss (if exposed) should ideally be flush with the wheel surface but otherwise are required to meet the radius
requirements if contactable.
Bare metal spokes are allowed as long as they conform to the edge radius requirements. Components likely to catch in the driver’s clothing or
jewellery are not permitted.
Note: It is possible to fit an 'aftermarket' steering wheel which has been approved for use on any design of column. These will be referred
to as “Separate Technical Units”. If the presenter can provide satisfactory documentary evidence that this is the case, a “Separate Technical Unit”
may be acceptable.
I have fitted a quick release after market wheel. I was planning to pad the center and cover the fixing nuts ect. Im not sure what paper work is being
referred to on here. I have a standard sierra wheel but its close to the front roll cage loop and i believe there is a min distance?
Cheers
Rog
I havent passed the IVA yet but i hope what i have will be ok. I too have an aftermarket wheel with a quick release, collapsible boss and padded
centre. The centre I made myself from scratch. I plan to disable the quick release for the IVA though.
Padded steering wheel centre
quote:
Originally posted by Rogthebandit
I have fitted a quick release after market wheel. I was planning to pad the center and cover the fixing nuts ect. Im not sure what paper work is being referred to on here. I have a standard sierra wheel but its close to the front roll cage loop and i believe there is a min distance?
Cheers
Rog
I could remove the release section and the wheel would go straight on the bose i made. I was planning to knock up a pad but nothing like yours sloan! Thats a work of art! How pick are the iva on home made pads? Do they need to look mint or would younget away with foam and tape?
I passed in December with a 10" mountney wheel, horn in centrr, no pad.
I took the spoke covers off, radiused the edges and repolished the spokes and refitted the spoke covers, sorted,
quote:
Originally posted by Rogthebandit
I could remove the release section and the wheel would go straight on the bose i made. I was planning to knock up a pad but nothing like yours sloan! Thats a work of art! How pick are the iva on home made pads? Do they need to look mint or would younget away with foam and tape?
quote:
Originally posted by Mr C
quote:
Originally posted by Rogthebandit
I could remove the release section and the wheel would go straight on the bose i made. I was planning to knock up a pad but nothing like yours sloan! Thats a work of art! How pick are the iva on home made pads? Do they need to look mint or would younget away with foam and tape?
They shouldn't look like a temporary after IVA throwaway fix ie with velco I made mine out of mdf a bit of foam and some leatherette, drilled toe holes in the wheel for a couple of bolts which went into rivnuts
Ya, i recon i will make one that looks fit for the job. I have used stick foam on the gear stick and handbrake and also on the edges of panels in and out of the car. Are they ok with stuff like that? Just rying to cover edges that maybe questionable