IVA is happening in a little over a week. If you've got time to look over my pics and point out any areas that need attention that would be much appreciated. Also does anyone know any tricks to remove the protective plastic from the aluminium sheets as the last little bits in tight spaces are being really difficult to remove.



Still have to put a couple of bolts in the panels on the left.

Handbrake mech has some sharp edges but I think they are non contactable in the driving position.











Steering column has a collapsible section but no change of direction. Chassis number written with an engraver and didn't come out as tidy as I hoped.





I think I might need indicator extensions as they are very close to 400mm from the outer edge (too close to measure with a 300mm ruler...)



Will the inner edge of the bonnet exhaust guard need radiusing? Also do I need to do anything with the hole the 02 sensor wires go through?

I will be tidying these wires under the dashboard.





I still need to put a gauge in the vacant hole in the dashboard.













Tunnel sides removed

Tunnel sides removed. Looking at the fuel lines route past the gearbox

Tunnel sides removed. Looking at the fuel lines route past the gearbox




Inside the tunnel

[Edited on 24/1/15 by luke2152]

Nice looking car.

I'd put a few more p clips on that brake line, every 200mm. I'd also secure all loose wiring with more clips that's under the footwell.

If anything just to stop some big foot passenger ripping it out!

Few things I can see is
Cable ties holding wiring in tunnel. I would use P-clips
Your front braided hoses look short. What are they like at full lock
Top seat belt anchors - I had to remove mine so the examiner could check them
Under dash - as you said tidy this up. I made a cover for this so the examiner could not see under my dash
radius on rear view mirror brackets
wiring for the indicators on the cyle wings needs to be secured
and you will need a cover on the thread of your headlights.

Cycle wings look like they don't cover enough of the tyre towards the rear.

Harnesses shouldn't pass through the seats as this makes the seat backs structural.


[Edited on 24/1/15 by theduck]

Cant tell for sure but the fog and hazard switch seem to have the collars fitted that make them protrude, these have been known to fail due to radius, I removed the collar which them makes them sit almost flush to the dash. You might also want to put grommets in the scuttle as it clearly looks like there has been a windscreen fitted and removed. Also the tape round the handbrake holding the trim on? The might be seen as not a permanent solution. Also the thread protruding from under the headlamp I cut mine right back so the sphere could not touch it. Hole where O2 sensor comes through along with the )2 sensor, would be good to see a grommet in that, same for where the repeater wire goes through top of wing. Under dash wiring could be tidied abit. Top ball joint nut cover.

Just some points that I can remember from when mine was IVA'd. Good luck

[Edited on 25/1/15 by AndyW]

A few observations :-

Have you checked the front arch coverage - do they cover enough of the back of the wheel
In the pedal box photo - is the tunnel cover on the left loose - otherwise it may need some trim
Handbrake - IVA inspector won't like the insulation tape holding the edge trim on - everything should 'appear' permanent.
Have you checked the brake hoses do not touch anything throughout their movement
Edge protection on the nut on the top upright
Are their any sharp edges on brake hose/fitment
I would tidy up the wiring genrerally and try and conduit / wrap every cable. General rule I was told was no more than 25mm of unprotected wire showing.
Covers required for battery terminals
Fuel hoses I would look at securing regularly - less than 300mm - particularly under the diff
Centre mirror brackets - have they got the correct radius on.
Lambda sensor - check that the sphere cannot touch an edges - I suspect it could
Lambda sensor wiring hole needs a grommet
Under dash - same comments on wiring. Also anything under the dash is subject to edge regs - you might want to think about putting a cover under the dash - keeps him out and away from the edge regs.
Exhaust - looks to be sharp edges on the bracket and nuts
Steering wheel - not sure but do you need a padded centre?
Mirrors - they may need covers over the mounting points (I did on the same mirrors using cable glands)
Fog and reverse - are the heights correct? They look low but difficult to tell with the car up.
Brake tee - MUST be secured - this is a def fail. Must be mounted with a securing locking method - I,e, bolt and nylock - rivnuts not acceptable.
Are the handbrake cables secure and unable to touch the driveshafts?
On the handbrake cable you've got a clip from the dogbone to the eye. Is this locked shut? The inspector might need a positive locking method as it is safety critical - perhaps a blob of weld to stop the clip opening.

Generally most bits are minor. Sounds stupid but appearance plays a part so things like covering wiring and going over the top with edge trim make a difference. I covered every edge possible on mine and he just walked around the car and didnt' get the sphere of doom out. Similarly he commented on the fact he couldn't find a single exposed wire anywhere. Everything should look permanent - not as if it has been chucked on for the test (they know what goes on after you leave the test centre but they expect you to play ball for the test!) If they get that warm fuzzy feeling then they won't dig as deep. Also remember that anything classed safety critical must be secured/locked - I had to add nuts to act as locking nuts against the ones welded to the chassis for my roll bar during the test (he did say spring washers would have done)

Good luck for the test and try and enjoy it - heads up on mine here -
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=186457

First impressions count. If the first impression the tester gets is good you'll have a head start.

Don't take this the wrong way, but some bits appear a bit scruffy. Lots of wiring exposed for instance (it needs to be taped, spiral wrapped or in split conduit). Check every edge for radius and make sure and trim is neat. Lots of tidying up to do.

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck


Harnesses shouldn't pass through the seats as this makes the seat backs structural.

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That silencer also looks pretty small, possibly too small to quieten it enough?

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Originally posted by blakep82

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck


Harnesses shouldn't pass through the seats as this makes the seat backs structural.

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Eh? Thats exactly what the holes in the seats are for.
They most definitely shouldn't be outside the seats!

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This is the section of IVA manual I am referring to.

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Note 10: The effective belt anchorage is the actual anchorage point to the vehicle unless a change of direction of the belt to the wearer is produced by a fixed intermediate device, for example, a belt guide fitted to the upper part of a seat back.
Note 11: Where a seat incorporates a belt guide that creates the “effective belt anchorage” consideration must be given to the strength of the seat back in relation to the loading to which it may be subject, (this being dependent on the position of the actual anchorage). The requirements Section 19 RS 3 should be applied to the effective anchorage location

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quote:

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Originally posted by luke2152
[Edited on 24/1/15 by luke2152]

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Sylva demo brakes

Note 8: The seat belt must be capable of effectively restraining the occupant  by the position of the lap belt (due to anchorage location) passing over the pelvic region  in the case of a harness belt or three point belt, by being positioned across the shoulder so that it does not slip off the shoulder of the occupant. Note 9: Where the seat is adjustable, this check must be carried out with the seat secured in the rearmost position and with the back rest in the normal driving position, in any case at a rearward angle of not more than approximately 25˚ from the vertical.

Note 10: The effective belt anchorage is the actual anchorage point to the vehicle unless a change of direction of the belt to the wearer is produced by a fixed intermediate device, for example, a belt guide fitted to the upper part of a seat back. Note 11: Where a seat incorporates a belt guide that creates the “effective belt anchorage” consideration must be given to the strength of the seat back in relation to the loading to which it may be subject, (this being dependent on the position of the actual anchorage). The requirements Section 19 RS 3 should be applied to the effective anchorage location

If outside the seats, the belt will not sit on the shoulders correctly, and risk sliding off
The holes in the seats are a belt guide, and the seats are designed to accomodate harnesses. Thats what the holes are for. Theres nothing in note 10 that says its a fail, and i've never seen anyone on here fail for having them through the holes. The belts should be installed correctly, as per section 31 diagram, showing the reference point block placed on the seat, and the upper belt mounts must be 450mm above that point. If they were bolted to the floor, then yes, it would fail, but bolted at the correct height, and through the guides, then it is not a fail

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck

quote:

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Originally posted by blakep82

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck


Harnesses shouldn't pass through the seats as this makes the seat backs structural.

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Eh? Thats exactly what the holes in the seats are for.
They most definitely shouldn't be outside the seats!

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For IVA it will fail passing through the seats and most definitely SHOULD be outside the seats!

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There have been fails on this before, but whatever, I wouldn't risk it.

[Edited on 24/1/15 by theduck]

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck
There have been fails on this before, but whatever, I wouldn't risk it.

[Edited on 24/1/15 by theduck]

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Not IVA, but having the lambda sensor on the underside means it will collect moisture and not last very long.

what have you used for the edging on the tunnel and rear deck?

note:
Items such as covers unless specifically designed for the purpose (rubber or otherwise) that are held in place by being stretched on, or attached by double sided tape or other inadequate means, rubber hosing, pipe lagging etc are not considered acceptable methods or materials. This is not an exhaustive list but provided as guidance as to the type of item considered to be unacceptable.

Are the prop/diff bolts long enough? Should be 3 threads IIRC.

Good Luck!!!

quote:

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Originally posted by ceebmoj

You need to fix the brake Tee permanently to the chassis, and use lock nuts or other locking mechanism. You can't use a rivnut in the chassis but you can rivit a plate to the chassis and then out a bolt through that. there are some good picture of this being done on an SJ15 on the site.


Sylva demo brakes
the prisoners build

Also why so many joints in the break lines?

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quote:

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Originally posted by theduck

quote:

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Originally posted by blakep82

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck


Harnesses shouldn't pass through the seats as this makes the seat backs structural.

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Eh? Thats exactly what the holes in the seats are for.
They most definitely shouldn't be outside the seats!

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For IVA it will fail passing through the seats and most definitely SHOULD be outside the seats!

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quote:

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Originally posted by killerferret666

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck

quote:

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Originally posted by blakep82

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck


Harnesses shouldn't pass through the seats as this makes the seat backs structural.

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Eh? Thats exactly what the holes in the seats are for.
They most definitely shouldn't be outside the seats!

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For IVA it will fail passing through the seats and most definitely SHOULD be outside the seats!

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I passed with mine passing through the seats. As long as the eye or mounting point is above the required height and means the strap passes through the hole straight on to someone's shoulders and not pulling down on the chair it's fine.

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No grommets on the fuel line where it passes through the rear bulkhead, even if it's a return Rear exhaust clamp , lambda sensor likely to fail on sharp edges, whilst probably not a fail rubber fuel lines running from tank to engine is not a good idea, (there's a sticky in the engine section of the forum ) As others have pointed out the upper seat belt mounts look wrong, I suspect they are too low , a lot of cars have an extra rail welded between the roll cage just for the anchorage points. The NSF flexi brake hose looks very close to the overlong lower shock absorber bolt, does it touch when turning from lock to lock? Not sure if it's a clutch or brake line near the pedal going through the tunnel without any grommet. As others have pointed out why oh why is there so many brake pipe joiners? A tester would rather see pipes that are too long but neatly secured rather than bodged .Again as others have pointed out ,first impressions count and although each car is supposed to be tested to the same standard ,a car that is neat and tidily presented for test stands a better chance of passing

quote:

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Originally posted by luke2152


[Edited on 24/1/15 by luke2152]

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Is your fuel cap tethered?

I had to cover this whilst at IVA, luckily I had trim with me and the tester allowed me to do so!!



Description

Is that edge not within the exempt Zone inside the wishbones?

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck
Is that edge not within the exempt Zone inside the wishbones?

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quote:

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Originally posted by theduck
Is that edge not within the exempt Zone inside the wishbones?

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Thanks all for the pointers. Should be enough to keep me busy til the test. Tunnel is fully riveted so I'll just wait and see what happens with the carabiner and get on with the other bits.

[Edited on 25/1/15 by luke2152]

quote:

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Originally posted by CosKev3

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck
Is that edge not within the exempt Zone inside the wishbones?

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Looks to be outside the 'box' you would make going from bottom wishbone to top wishbone to me?

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If I was an inspector I would fail that handbrake carabiner. Those non locking types aren't reliable even in their intended location on a climbing harness, to have it here can't be good.

There must be hundreds of other solutions, an immediate thought would be a proper handbrake t piece probably obtained for a few pence.

Are jubilee clips on fuel lines still a fail?

I would expect your execution of the brakes, both hydraulic and handbrake would draw heavy scrutiny to the rest of the car. The flexis need to mount with bulkhead fittings to brackets on the frame and the number of pipe joints, especially pipe on pipe joins would be a real concern.

The brake pipe at the rear of the transmission tunnel looks like it's starting to kink.