It's all about impressions, if the rest of the car is well screwed together, and the fuel/brake/electric fluid lines are fastened properly he won't bother to look.
It's not as scarey as you think, you'll be fine!
Cheers
Having searched the SVA forum for info on transmision tunnel issues I have learnt lots about how things must be routed, wired and secured. However..
If I was to rivet the tunnel cover down how is Mr SVA Inspector going to check all these things? (I am building a Stuart Taylor ZX9R Phoenix which
has an alli floor-pan so inspection from underneath is not possible)
Likewise if it is secured using riv-nuts will they remove them all to take a peek?
Exactly same as mot test the tester can't unscrew anything or even lift carpets or boot trim.
[Edited on 12/12/04 by britishtrident]
The SVA inspector is not allowed to remove anything, but they can ask you to remove covers etc.
It's all about impressions, if the rest of the car is well screwed together, and the fuel/brake/electric fluid lines are fastened properly he
won't bother to look.
It's not as scarey as you think, you'll be fine!
Cheers
My SVA inspector had a good look down the tunnel from both ends while the car was up on a car hoist. I had a look as well - you could see a fair
bit.
David
So lets say he/she is slightly suspicious of my wiring/routing and I have pop-riveted my tunnel top down. Surely they can't ask me to drill them all out to inspect?
naaah, he can't ........ but he'll then find something else to fail you on!
These are real people, if they think your car is well made and in the spirit of the law (and they are having a good day) they'll help you
pass......
If they think you've bodged it all, they'll look (and probably find) faults!
Now instead of worrying about the SVA man, what are you going to do when you want to get into the tunnel?
[Edited on 12/12/04 by MikeR]
David - I'm with you on this. Although ages from SVA, I've spoken to many who have been through it, and they indeed can see lots from each
end of the prop. I've been under my car a few times, and with the aid of a small mirror on a stick (shufty-scope we used to call them in the RAF)
one can, knowing the approx length of the tunnel, easily calculate the spacing bewteen p-clips etc., also see the quality of the routing (AND more
importantly, be able to ensure that fuel and wiring runs are well away from each other.....!!)
Pete
quote:
Originally posted by Oldgitpete
(AND more importantly, be able to ensure that fuel and wiring runs are well away from each other.....!!)
Pete
The rules don't say how far apart they need to be - just "apart". If they're firmly held 40mm apart then that has to be good
enough for anyone.
It's when they're close together with a risk of rubbing that the testers get twitchy.
David
Good point - taken, David. Most of our (RH) members have put the fuel line one side and the wiring the other so there's no doubt. By well away I
didn't mean thus, but as you pointed out, i.e. "comfortably" separate. Sorry all for the confusion....
Pete
I wasn't having a pop at anyone, honest!
The testers are pretty fair folk - they just want to see a safe arrangement, however it's done. There's a hundred and one safe ways of doing
most things.
David
Cheers for the advice...
It has been suggested that riveting the tunnel top down aids torsional stiffness and I was intrigued at how it would then be inspected.
The floorpan makes it very difficult to look down the length of the tunnel from the front and the diff pretty much plugs the rear. Anyway, I will
probably go for rivnuts for easy removal in the future.
For the record, I have routed my brake line down the right hand side of the tunnel along the top rail, my fuel line down the left side along the
bottom rail and my wiring loom (in braided sleeving) also down the left side but along the top rail (about 70mm above the fuel line). All are
P-clipped using rivets so I am hoping it will be fine anyway.
Thanks
Marc
birt,
I'm probably going to get jumped on here, but all my interior panels are going to be velcroed into place. It's not like they're going
to move because the seat belt fixing bolts go through them, and with the exception of the tunnel top, they're an incredibly tight fit (seats hold
in place). As for tunnel top, it could move without velcro but handbrake, gearlever and and scuttle prevent it leaving vehicle.
ATB
Simon
If your chassis is not bending why should they rub? Mine haven't budged in 5 years.
My father has to make sure the tunnel cover can be removed for his retest so the inspector can inspect the loom etc fixings and also see how the
handbrake works.
I spoke to the supplier of my kit (Mac1 Motorsport) and they have advised that i take a photographic build history with me so that i can show pics of
any areas not easily viewed during the test.
I hope this helps.
Darren.
Yeah,
At my test the examiner starting poking about where the seatbelts are anchored. I then produced pictures of the said mounts and he was well chuffed!
He said he was mainly looking for the captive nut.
Cheers
quote:
Originally posted by Northy
captive nut.
