1. Brake pipes should be fixed at minimum of 300mm intervals with P clips.

2. Brake bias valve must be tamper-proof, however it need not be welded. A roll pin through both the adjuster bolt and the locking nut is OK. (He said they may knock it out slightly just to prove it goes all the way through !!! They had some guy cut a roll pin in two and insert the two pieces into holes drilled either side of the locking nut !!)

3. Pedals should have a non slip surface, does not need to be rubber, metal ribs are OK. Even said ribs welded across the surface of the pedal were OK.

4. The teeth of your handbrake, should officially be covered with pading however, a gaiter is normally accepted as OK, provided the material is thick enough.

plus usual stuff about sharp edges, proof of engine age and general build quality.


that is Derby SVA anyway, nice guys as well.

[Edited on 12/5/03 by givemethebighammer]

I went there a couple of years ago and they were brilliant. I asked how it was doing and he said you've failed on the rear reflectors. They gave me a pair of self adhesive ones and I replaced them by post. Also after the brake test the car started losing water but he said it didn't matter as it only had to run for the silencer test and gave me time to fix it. I only tightened the clip up and it's been o.k. since.
Does the brake bias valve only have to be locked if you can reach it from the driving position?

yours, Pete.

Nope, asked this question, needs to be locked full stop

last August i put my Stuart taylor into another SVA station (not Derby but local). The bias adjuster was not lockable. The very nice man told me that it had to appear locked and that he had to be able to say (to his boss if asked) that it appeared locked (ie he wouldn't check it!) they even suggested i go to the commercial workshop mnext door to scrounge a roll pin.
The pin is in two bits araldited into a nut

Chas

perhaps the awnser is to box in the bias bar/cyls what can't be seen etc.