I read a while back that if the roll bar is welded on, it is exempt from any sharp edges rules on the SVA because it is part of the structure.
My roll bar is not braced and at the moment and is bolted on with 3 M10 8.8 bolts at each end, it does not carry any harness mounts.
Am I better to weld the bar onto the chassis or leave it bolted, but not fitted for the test itself?
Will you ever need to remove it? Will the rear supports cover something like the fuel tank making it dificult to remove should you ever need to? personely i am going to bolt mine, it's easy to rad the edges of the feet and cover the bolt heads.
I have just posted some pictures in my photo archive of the anodised cup washers I am using to bolt my roll bar down with. Pictures are a bit out of
focus but should give you an idea.
I got them mail order from BSR Aerotek.
You could use button head allen bolts to get round the radius thing. I welded mine on but we took one to Derby with a bolt on rollbar and they never
looked at it.
yours, Pete.
For my SVA they were not bothered about the bolts (used domed allen key type), they were concerned with the edges of the square plate at the base.
Stupid really because it is no different to the one underneath it that it bolts to but apparently if it is 'bolted on' it must be radiused
(Down here in the Souf!) - believe me, after 4 sodding re-tests I have a bloody good knowledge of the SVA down here!!
My roll bar is bolted on and the base is 3mm steel .How is it possible to satisfy the 2.5 mm rad rule? or does it just need to have the sharp corners
removed?. I thought about putting some wing piping as used on the back wings around the edges.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by merlin
For my SVA they were not bothered about the bolts (used domed allen key type), they were concerned with the edges of the square plate at the base. Stupid really because it is no different to the one underneath it that it bolts to but apparently if it is 'bolted on' it must be radiused (Down here in the Souf!) - believe me, after 4 sodding re-tests I have a bloody good knowledge of the SVA down here!!
I used stick on foam from Woolies to cover any edges that are hard to radius. If it is "on show" its easy to Evo some vinyl over it to make it look finished. Comes in several widths, just buy a couple of metres, and good for under dash covering.
Mine passed with the 'tadpole' piping sandwiched between the rollbar plate and chassis (also done the same on the dash!) This has a soft
core and is about 5mm dia and comes in just about any colour (also easy to remove!?) 
Woolies also sell this!
I did use the sticky foam around the lock nut of the front shocks and that passed.