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using only flexible brake lines? SVA?
blakep82 - 25/2/07 at 10:05 AM

anyone know if this is ok with the SVA? I wouldn't have thought it wold be a problem if using stainless steel braided line (goodridge or the like) since rally cars have them, and i guess they have to go through SVA.

not only would it be easier than making ridgid metal lines, it would also make work on suspension easier later as the back axle could be removed without diconnecting the brake lines...


bigrich - 25/2/07 at 10:09 AM

they are ok for sva but must be covered if they are exposed as they are abrasive. either have them coated or use spiral wrap to cover them


blakep82 - 25/2/07 at 10:13 AM

so i don't have to have the ridgid type at all? excellent news!
would make work on suspension (removing wishbones etc) much easier as they can just be moved aside rather than disconnecting the pipes and having to bleed them...

i hadn't thought about them rubbing though, so yeah, spiral wrapped up protects the paint on my chassis


RazMan - 25/2/07 at 10:52 AM

I used the Goodrich jobbies which are covered already in a clear plastic sleeve. They make things a lot easier and I have them all the way from master cylinder to caliper. My SVA tester loved them

[Edited on 25-2-07 by RazMan]


blakep82 - 25/2/07 at 10:57 AM

SWEET!

i'm only at the very early stages of my build, got it all built in my head though. but there's just a few thing i worry about. brakes are a while off yet though...


Peteff - 25/2/07 at 11:06 AM

Are you going to have some spare rolled up so you can stretch it out and remove the axle, like an extension lead? The wishbones are not a problem, just remove the calliper and hang it on the chassis, or am I missing something. If you want to spend money on flexible throughout you don't need to justify it to anyone, it's a pointless and expensive exercise but it's up to you.


RazMan - 25/2/07 at 11:21 AM

Expensive? I suppose it costs a little more but it will take a fraction of the time to fit - just a few P clips and you are done ( I even used cable ties around the trailing link arms and Mr SVA was ok with that) My whole setup - 6 hoses & two tee joints came to less than £80 iirc.
You still have a tee joint front & rear so dissassembly is just the same as a rigid pipe setup. If you want to remove the axle then surely the brake lines are the least of your worries


[Edited on 25-2-07 by RazMan]


blakep82 - 25/2/07 at 11:34 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Are you going to have some spare rolled up so you can stretch it out and remove the axle, like an extension lead? The wishbones are not a problem, just remove the calliper and hang it on the chassis, or am I missing something. If you want to spend money on flexible throughout you don't need to justify it to anyone, it's a pointless and expensive exercise but it's up to you.


like rzman say, a little more expensive yes, but would simplify the build of the brake system, without all this bending of metal pipes, flaring the ends etc. All i've got to do it take say, 3 metres of braided pipe (bear in mind my pick up is much bigger than a locost) fit one end with the right connections of the master cylinder, and the other end with back axle T-piece connections, route and clip the pipe in place. takes minutes.

also, I bought my chassis as an ex race car, so i don't want to go drilling it, should make it easier to clip in place, but i'm still working on that... i'm not sure that tie wraps are allowed, but maybe a rubber wrap around a chassis tube and the pipe held by hose/jubilee clips?

so for instance, if i want to remove the axle for any reason, I can unclip it to the back of the cab and move it to the side, no risk of fracturing a pipe, and no bleeding of the hydraulics needed


suparuss - 25/2/07 at 12:05 PM

i think i worked it out as being cheaper to use flexi all round actually. if you include to price of flaring tools into the equation an you can buy flexi by the meter instead of rolls. plus as said they are easier to fit, easier to service and look nicer.
im only covering them where they move though, not the whole thing. i hope mr sva doesnt complain.


Peteff - 25/2/07 at 12:17 PM

My brake pipe cost £8 (Kunifer wit some left over), unions were probably another £5 and standard flexible pipes about £15. Clarke flaring tool £9.99 and still using it now and none of the unions failed, the whole thing didn't take more than an afternoon so in the scheme of things it's not a long job. Flexible pipes need more clips as they try to straighten out under pressure and brake pedal effort is lost to this.


blakep82 - 25/2/07 at 08:00 PM

also, does anyone know what acceptable ways there are to secure the pipes? can they be tie-wrapped to chassis tubes, or do they have to be actually fixed to the chassis (drilled tapped and P clipped)?


RazMan - 25/2/07 at 11:00 PM

I used P clips wherever possible but where they had to go along tubular chassis rails I used cable ties. The SVA tester remarked that some testers regard them as 'temporary' fixing - he however was perfectly ok with them as he couldn't suggest a better way of fixing a flexible pipe to a tube.
Just use permanent looking cable ties!


blakep82 - 26/2/07 at 12:00 AM

i'm thinking rubber wrapped round the tube ( a peice of an old inner tube or something) and jubilee clips (probably with rubber again) they would look better and be stronger than cable ties.

Knowing my luck, by the time i finish this car they'll have changed it all to make it virtualy impossible to get an SVA...


Stu16v - 26/2/07 at 11:11 PM

Jubilee clips may well be stronger - but TBH, why do you need the 'extra' strength?

One cable tie would easily hold *all* of the brake pipe you will ever likely to need on this project, and your next one. And possibly the one after that too More than strong enough for the job


RazMan - 26/2/07 at 11:54 PM

More or less what my tester said - have you tried to break a cable tie?


blakep82 - 27/2/07 at 08:47 PM

i don't know, i tend to prefer metal over plastic, especially when holding my brake lines are concerned. i know they are near impossible to break, but i'd rather not worry.

if a SVA tester says its ok though...