Board logo

Brake fluid level warning
twybrow - 27/3/07 at 03:38 PM

Do you need this for SVA and if so, how do people using a Wilwood dual cylinder system do this? I cant see how you can fix the sensor into the small resevoir/s... Anyone done this already or is there another way?


BenB - 27/3/07 at 03:43 PM

Yes, you need it for SVA. I'm assuming you've got intergral resevoirs in the Wilwood MCs (otherwise its easy- just add on to the common resevoir)....

I can't remember what make MC I've got but the standard Ford brake fluid sensors fit them just fine (they might be Girling ? the same thread as Wilwood). Doesn't leave much room for the fluid but it leaves enough(!) and it will pass SVA....


twybrow - 27/3/07 at 04:07 PM

Ah, I see. So if i raid a scrap yard for the brake fluid tank lid that would do me just fine... Does that mean one for each resevoir?


BenB - 27/3/07 at 04:19 PM

Yup! Sure does. Be aware that the contacts inside the switch rust easily. Both the switches I got off scrappers had rusted up internally so didn't work (even after scraping and sanding off the rust down to shiny metal). I think both cars had had bits nicked off their braking system and water had got into the brake fluid resevoir. In fact, the mirky yellow/brown liquid inside the resevoir may have been mostly rusty water!!
I ended up getting new ones (part number 6174635- which I got through www.edwardsford.co.uk)- I think they were about 15 quid each... I suppose its worth getting a scrappy one just to make sure it fits the thread on your MCs....

[Edited on 27/3/07 by BenB]


twybrow - 27/3/07 at 04:43 PM

I was reading the wiring diagrams last night and finally thought - 'Wow, I understand the handbrake/low fluid warning light'. Now I dont! I guess you just put the switches in parallel.... But that is some way off yet, it is barely a rolling chassis at the moment! Thanks for the info.


blakep82 - 27/3/07 at 05:19 PM

this was also a thought i've had, as the SVA manual seems to say you don'tt need a light with test swich as long as the resevoir is see through with Min and max marked, or is that just the test switch that wouldn't be needed?


John Bonnett - 27/3/07 at 06:05 PM

I have spoken to the SVA man in Exeter and his ruling is that you do need a warning lamp that is tested each time the handbrake is applied. This is just to check that the bulb hasn't blown. At the time of the test it must be shown that the float switch will indicate low fluid level.

John


TGR-ECOSSE - 27/3/07 at 06:28 PM

Rally Design do diy switches.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=13322

I have also seen ones where you drill a hole in the cap and screw it in but can't remember where i saw it.


John Bonnett - 27/3/07 at 06:29 PM

quote
that the float switch will indicate low fluid level.

I should have added, "by operating the warning lamp"

John


iank - 27/3/07 at 07:07 PM

quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
I have spoken to the SVA man in Exeter and his ruling is that you do need a warning lamp that is tested each time the handbrake is applied. This is just to check that the bulb hasn't blown. At the time of the test it must be shown that the float switch will indicate low fluid level.

John


I believe he's wrong if he requires the switch to be on the handbrake.

You need something that tests the bulb and most do use a handbrake switch, but I believe a switch on the dash (like the mini) or even a timed turn on from power up (like the new bright 6 T shape panel) are also OK according to the letter of the manual.

I know people who have passed with the mini switch (a later one with the correct symbol) at Nottingham SVA.

The test for the cap switch seems to be to unscrew it and lift it out of the fluid. So don't make your wires too short


John Bonnett - 28/3/07 at 11:39 AM

quote

I believe he's wrong if he requires the switch to be on the handbrake.

Wrong or not, he will be testing my car and he makes the rules against which there is no argument. I want to pass so I shall be playing by his rules.

John


iank - 28/3/07 at 12:02 PM

quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote

I believe he's wrong if he requires the switch to be on the handbrake.

Wrong or not, he will be testing my car and he makes the rules against which there is no argument. I want to pass so I shall be playing by his rules.

John


I can see where you are coming from with that. However don't assume you can't argue if you feel they are wrong, they do need to justify any fail points against the manual. They certainly don't have carte blanc to make it up as they go along. If they can't point to a line in the manual that supports their view you can appeal. As other test centres are passing alternative bulb testers he wouldn't have a leg to stand on IMO.

Whether appealing causes you more pain in the long term depends on whether you passed on everything except that point.

I'll look up the exact wording in the manual when I'm next at home.


[Edited on 28/3/07 by iank]


FEZ1025 - 28/3/07 at 02:11 PM

Ian,

The wording from the SVA manual I have is

"fitted with an operational 'test facility' that enables it's operation to be checked from the driving position without opening the reservior"

So my Mini switch filled the requirement if only it had had the correct symbol on LOL. By the same token fitting a handbrake switch does the same, however the inspector in Exeter is incorrect to say it 'must' be fitted to the handbrake.

Alan
(Phaeton somebody nicked my userid)


John Bonnett - 7/4/07 at 05:38 PM

Quote
Rally Design do diy switches.

Your post was really timely. I was just about to order a pair of float switches from RS at £11.00 each not knowing that Rally design have just added them to their range and at only £7.50 each. They are really neat and easily fitted. I've used a Volvo microswitch (mainly because it was the most easily accessible in the Breakers Yard)fitted to the Escort handbrake. All wired and works so another job done!!

John


John Bonnett - 7/4/07 at 05:40 PM

Volvo microswitch fitted