Is it possible to have over efficient brakes. Obviously the car is very light weight, and the brakes are setup to lock the fronts before the rears, but it seems very easy to lock the brakes .
Both wheels on one axle or is one locked well before the other ?
[Edited on 20/5/08 by britishtrident]
It seems possible to lock both the fronts then the rears without having to apply tons of pressure. I would expect to have to really stand on the
brakes to get it lock up.
Actually i was trying to see at what point they would lock up, but was suprosed at how little effort it took.
Then on another occasion today i was going a little to fast and needed to stop quicker than normal, which also give a quick squeal.
[Edited on 20/5/08 by ChrisS]
What leverage ratio do you have on the brak pedal?
moving the pivot point may make for better feel and travel of the pedal before reaching the lock up point.
Do you have a brake servo?
If so you could remove it for more feel.
If not changing the master cylinder bore size could help.
Whats your setup ie, M/c ,calipers etc?
Brakes are running through an OBP bottom mounted pedal box with with brake bias setup, locked to give front bias, with 0.7 rear and 0.625 front master
cylinders.
moving brake pivot point is not an option really as this is designed into the pedal box.
I guess im just far to used to driving the tintop with all its gizmos. Just need to learn how to drive the car properly i guess.
Putting another O.7" dia master cylinder on the front should improve things after that if you find you have too much rear brakes you can't
get a balance by adjusting the balance bar rathr than change the other mastercylinder I would just fit an Fiat Uno or Fiat Strada/Ritmo brake
regulator valve.
Should be easy to find a buyer for the 0.625" cylinder
[Edited on 20/5/08 by britishtrident]
What tyre pressure are you running? I found with my CEC that if i ran with the tyres too hard the wheels would lock up way too easy... but in a BEC
that has got to be even more of a factor , basicly harder tyres = smaller contact patch = quicker lock up....
I would ask what tyres?
Normally it is the opposite problem to yours (pedal too wooden)
As BT says, try a larger m/c bore to increase pedal pressure required.
Im running Toyo Proxy T1R's, which are meant to be good tyres. Ive tried 18psi, and yesterday 22psi.
I dont want to increase pedal pressure, i want to increase travel i think, so that the the brakes arent locking up so soon.
I think i might try winding the master cylinder connector rods out a bit.
I run 18 lbs in my CEC and that seems jsust about right so mabe in a BEC 18 is still a bit high.
22psi is way too high for a bec generally. 16-18psi is more like where you want to be.
quote:
Originally posted by gingerprince
22psi is way too high for a bec generally. 16-18psi is more like where you want to be.
drop them down to say 16 lbs and try it out again
with mine I started out with 28 lbs and found it was like driving on ice no grip at all , I droped it progresively down until I settled on 18, whic is
as Goldylocks says "just right"
quote:
Originally posted by ChrisS
I dont want to increase pedal pressure, i want to increase travel i think, so that the the brakes arent locking up so soon.
I think i might try winding the master cylinder connector rods out a bit.
As a matter of interest what brakes (calipers/discs/rears/pad material) are you using?
I couldn't see from your photo archive unfortunately).
quote:
Originally posted by iank
As a matter of interest what brakes (calipers/discs/rears/pad material) are you using?
I couldn't see from your photo archive unfortunately).
quote:
Originally posted by ChrisS
Im running Toyo Proxy T1R's, which are meant to be good tyres. Ive tried 18psi, and yesterday 22psi.
I dont want to increase pedal pressure, i want to increase travel i think, so that the the brakes arent locking up so soon.
I think i might try winding the master cylinder connector rods out a bit.