over the last few weeks ive been stripping my donor cars and now ive got a problem removing the reamer bolt from the ppf
ive now broken two sockets trying to loosen the bolt
what i was thinking of doing was to remove the diff with the ppf still attached and then cut the bolt off
would this be advisable or not
i dont need the frame anyway
You can do it this way. They are still a pain to get out cutting them as there is sleeves and collars to deal with. Also the one that threads into
the pff its self has to go out head first as the bolt its self is stepped and wont push through from the head end only to the head end.
Cheers
Stot
Local tool supplier should be able to supply 6 (as opposed to 12) point impact sockets.
These are a) harder and b) provide more grip.
Then use a breaker bar and lump hammer to shock the bolts (or frighten them - whichever...)
Bolts are torqued up to c120NM so are tight!
Also bear in mind you can sell the PPF as they have been known to crack.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe10
Must admit, I've never heard of a PPF cracking outside of accident damage.
I removed the diff with the PPF attached, I don't remember having issues with removing the bolts, but I had a job getting the PPF off the diff
due to the collars IIRC. Ended up cutting the PPF in 2 and getting a couple of quid as scrap; there was no call for them as spare parts.
OK.
Must Admit...
What is a PPF???
I might have waitede for someone to ask first, but, what the heck...
I even looked for it on Acronym finder... Nno joy...
Thanks..
AA
Power Plant Frame - clever piece of Jap engineering which connects gearbox and diff to help rigidity.
Simples - for those hairdressers..
Cheers, Pewe10 
quote:
Originally posted by Angel Acevedo
OK.
Must Admit...
What is a PPF???
I might have waitede for someone to ask first, but, what the heck...
I even looked for it on Acronym finder... Nno joy...
Thanks..
AA
quote:
Originally posted by pewe
Power Plant Frame - clever piece of Jap engineering which connects gearbox and diff to help rigidity.
Simples - for those hairdressers..
Cheers, Pewe10
I've just had a half inch breaker bar and a tube about four foot long and all it done was Cracked my socket
Was a six point socket aswell
So that's three sockets broken now
Think I'll just remove it with the diff and cut the bugger off
quote:
Now to look for the meaning of Hairdresser..
AA
tried to loosen it using an impact socket aswell and it started to round the head of the bolt
so its proper seized in there
i now think cutting it is going to be the only way
Maybe a bit late but have you tried giving the bolt head a proper p*sser with a lump hammer?
The shock can sometimes free the threads.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe10
Thinking about it, and having spent ages cuting one out before, I think If I were to do it again I would drill down the center of the threaded end of
the bolt with successively bigger drill bits unttil the threads are drilled off and then knock them out.
Cheers
Stot
Well I finally got the bolt out after much cutting and hammering
But in doing so I cracked the cast iron spacer that fits between the frame and diff
Looking at it though I don't think I need to use that bit anyway
It's the bit that's bolted to the bottom of the diff
Same thing happened to me, the shouldered bolt had seized to the cylindrical spacer, thus cracking the spacer that is bolted to the diff. Thankfully, Autolink had that part in stock, and I did need it. Part number is MA02-27-158 if you do find that you need it.
If reusing the bolts ensure you apply a good amount of chassis/waterproof grease to them.
Cheers, Pewe10.