Andy W
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posted on 18/3/09 at 05:24 PM |
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MNR ZX10 SVA Fail
Had my sva today, all in all a good day, but failed on brakes (not handbrake). During the build the brakes have been a right pain
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=107465
The brakes seemed ok this morning, we had tested the near side front, then as we went to the offside the pedal went spongy. I've bled the brakes
numerous times lately and always get some air out the backs to get a good pedal, but after a few days it doesn't feel quite as good, bleed the
back brakes and there is more air in them, but I can find no leaks. After the test, came home bled the back brakes again, got more air out the backs
and now back to a solid pedal, I just don't know were the air is coming from. Do I change the rear master cylinder, or go for the calipers?
Andy
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maximill666
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posted on 18/3/09 at 05:29 PM |
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Andy just out of curiosity, did you bleed the master cylinders one at a time? i.e. did you disconnect the bias bar & do one master cylinder at a
time or leave both connected when bleeding each of them?
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Hellfire
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posted on 18/3/09 at 05:31 PM |
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Sound slike you haven't got rid of the air in the first place.
How have you routed the rear brake line - sounds like you have not got all of the air out of the rear arch line to me. You need to shoot it out quick
if this is the case.
You will get a hard one with constant pumping but that doesn't mean your line's are totally devoid of air. Keep pumping and eventually
your hard one will stay...
All to be read with tongue firmly in cheek!
Steve
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Andy W
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posted on 18/3/09 at 05:32 PM |
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I left them connected, but have been using an easy bleed. I'm fairly certain you can leave them connected and bleed in the normal way
Andy
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westf27
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posted on 18/3/09 at 05:38 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Hellfire
Sound slike you haven't got rid of the air in the first place.
How have you routed the rear brake line - sounds like you have not got all of the air out of the rear arch line to me. You need to shoot it out quick
if this is the case.
You will get a hard one with constant pumping but that doesn't mean your line's are totally devoid of air. Keep pumping and eventually
your hard one will stay...
All to be read with tongue firmly in cheek!
Steve
Thats what I keep telling her,but does she listen
555
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maximill666
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posted on 18/3/09 at 05:43 PM |
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I had a similer problem when bleeding mine, where I bled the fronts & then the rears but left the bias bar connected & still felt slightly
spongy no matter how many times I did it.
I disconnected the bias bar from one of the master cylinders & did them again one at a time without the bar connected to the other one, I just
swapped it over each time so the pedal did the fronts then the rears & hey presto they were rock solid afterwards.
I didnt have an easy bleed kit though, just did it the old fasioned way.
[Edited on 18/3/09 by maximill666]
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Andy W
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posted on 18/3/09 at 05:43 PM |
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Hi Steve
I can get the pedal hard on the first press, but it seems to go soft after a few days. Maybe I need to try viagra
Andy
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Agriv8
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posted on 18/3/09 at 05:44 PM |
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Was that the onlt fail ?
are you unbolting the bottom bolt and lifting the rears so the nipple is the highest piont ? Sorry just read the link so you have tried that.
Long shot but MNr did have a bad batch of brake switches have you checked that its not weaping arround the switch ?
So are you having to top the fluid up?
regards
Agriv8
[Edited on 18/3/09 by Agriv8]
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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Hellfire
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posted on 18/3/09 at 05:50 PM |
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If it's doing that then it sounds like you're in need of a new MC.
Steve
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Andy W
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posted on 18/3/09 at 06:05 PM |
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That was the only fail,
The brake light switch is on the fronts.
I'm not topping the reservoir up, in between bleeds, but I've not marked it to see if the level is dropping. I'm thinking I might
try the master cylinder first. I would have thought if it was the calipers I would surely get some fluid out under pressure? unless the seals could
pass in one direction? When I bleed them I get air out of both calipers, if I had aproblem with one them do you think I would get air from both?
Andy
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Pdlewis
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posted on 18/3/09 at 06:23 PM |
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This may be a stupid question but...
How would you go about dissconnecting the bias bar without removing the master cyliner? as I looked at it but theres no way of getting the
clevis's off once they have been screwed on
[Edited on 18/3/09 by Pdlewis]
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Updated 05/02/2009
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grusks2
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posted on 18/3/09 at 06:46 PM |
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When i bled my brakes with a easy bleed, it always seams to leave the small tiny bubbles in the lines still,
I leave the pedal under pressure over night, which seams to make all the small bubbles merge into bigger ones,
Then used the old up and down on the pedal, and go round each caliper whilst the wife/mate is doing the pedal.
Pushing the pedal gives more pressure than the easy bleed as this only uses 30psi where the pedal is far higher.
I allway get bubbles when using the pedal and the easy bleed gets none.
http://mac1worxbuild.wordpress.com/
forgot my old password so another username doh
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jacko
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posted on 18/3/09 at 07:13 PM |
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Andy sorry to hear it was a fail but if you have to have a fail then your must be one of the best [Only Brakes ] give me a shout if you need a hand
or in this case a foot
Graham
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Antnicuk
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posted on 18/3/09 at 09:02 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Pdlewis
This may be a stupid question but...
How would you go about dissconnecting the bias bar without removing the master cyliner? as I looked at it but theres no way of getting the
clevis's off once they have been screwed on
[Edited on 18/3/09 by Pdlewis]
The M/C plunger will unscrew from the clevis, its only the rubber boot holding it from spinning.Its not threaded into the M/C so wont unwind or wind
in.
I would keep trying to remove the air, if you have no leaks, try disconnecting one of the m/c's and give that a go.
600 BHP per ton, Stylus Brought back from the dead! Turbo Rotary Powered!
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40inches
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posted on 19/3/09 at 02:43 PM |
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Not exactly the same, but my son had a MR2 turbo, and after he changed the clutch slave cylinder we could not get the air out of the system (master
high at front,slave low at rear) after struggling for 3 bloody days I got a vacuum oil change thingy, connected pipe to cylinder bleed nipple and
kept slowly pumping peddle,pumping vacc unit and topping up reservoir
: job done in 30 mins and now use same system for brakes,total lack of grief
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belgian2b
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posted on 19/3/09 at 07:17 PM |
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Hello,
i always use a refrigerator compressor to bleed my brakes.
Easy to find, easy to use.
Connect to bleeding point and let it suck.
You just have to check brake fluid level because it is quite fast .
Gerardo
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