matt_gsxr
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posted on 6/4/09 at 08:10 PM |
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Bicycle speedo
Hi there,
I have fitted a bicycle speedo. Its a Sigma something. I have an email from the manufacturers saying it reads to 199mph. I have put a light infront
of it to illuminate it.
I went for SVA today, and it turns out that it isn't allowed to have a separate battery. "what happens when the battery fails? you wont
have a speedo", I guess I'd use my GPS.
All fair I guess. But whats my best way of sorting this in less than 36hours?
Matt
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daniel mason
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posted on 6/4/09 at 08:21 PM |
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does it have programmeable buttons on the front? i failed my sva on thursday because my speedo is digital and if you push one of the buttons,the
speedo does not show on screen. he drove the car,pushed the button and failed me on the spot for it!
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matt_gsxr
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posted on 6/4/09 at 08:24 PM |
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Actually he was wise to that one, but mine actually only has one button and it always shows the speed.
I just got done on the power thing. I guess I can just feed some power into it directly from the battery and call it a day.
Not very desirable to have to start cutting holes and making up potential dividers at this stage. :-(
Matt
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mad4x4
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posted on 6/4/09 at 09:38 PM |
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get a phone charger the rigth voltage and use that to power it instead of the battery wiring this permenantly into the loom.
Or make it appear to be powered off of the LOOM
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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matt_gsxr
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posted on 6/4/09 at 09:58 PM |
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Not actually connecting it up would make it Electrickery
I might scope out a few of our old phone chargers.
Thanks,
Matt
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mgmiller
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posted on 6/4/09 at 09:58 PM |
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I failed SVA in Aberdeen for the same reason and I'm using a digidash lite !!!!
Not sure what to do and the dash cost £500
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matt_gsxr
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posted on 6/4/09 at 10:34 PM |
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Thats not good.
I think you could legitimately contact the folk that supplied it. If this is a real problem then they will be keen to sort it out.
My Sigma BC900 cost £8 and was intended for a bike, so I haven't got a leg to stand on.
Time for some electrickery
Matt
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iank
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posted on 6/4/09 at 10:50 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by mgmiller
I failed SVA in Aberdeen for the same reason and I'm using a digidash lite !!!!
Not sure what to do and the dash cost £500
ETB are re-programming them to try to get around the problem (new as of 2-3months ago when VOSA decided to clamp down for some reason)
See http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=110319
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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JAG
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posted on 7/4/09 at 07:28 AM |
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This must be a recent thing - not that that helps at all.
My car has a Sigma BC800 bicycle speedo and passed with no problems in 2005.
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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02GF74
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posted on 7/4/09 at 08:53 AM |
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it is probably 2032 coin battery supplying 3 V.
you would take an old credit card and cut out disc to be same size, then glue two discs of copper on either side, sized as per original battery.
then either find a cigar light voltage adapter that can suppy 3 V or else use LM317 variable voltage regulator from maplins.
solder up the wires to the "battery" and then fit battery into the computer back - you would need to ensure that it stays put - how to do
that is something I am still thinking about.
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andrew.carwithen
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posted on 7/4/09 at 03:09 PM |
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Blimey!
looks like I was lucky, then.
Passed SVA with a Sigma 1200 bike speedo late Feb this year!
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matt_gsxr
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posted on 9/4/09 at 10:46 AM |
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thanks 02GF74,
You are right about the battery (it is a 3v lithium one).
The only problem is whether it loses its wheel diameter information when the battery is disconnected.
from the manual:->
Battery:
1 lithium type 2032, 3V. Change
batteries after appr. 3 years or as soon
as the display fades. Open the battery
compartment cover with a coin.
Changing batteries:
• Before changing take note of wheel
size (WS) and (total distance).
• Observe plus and minus. When battery
compartment is open, you should see
the plus pole!
• Refit rubber seal if detached.
• After change of batteries (total
distance), wheel size (WS) and
(clock) must be re-entered. kmh/mph
is shown as first value on the display.
Matt
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chrisg
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posted on 9/4/09 at 11:01 AM |
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From the new IVA manual
"Note 1: The speedometer must be of a type suitable for M1 vehicle use. The types manufactured for bicycles, racing only, those that rely on GPS
or those that require switching as a separate function to that of operating the vehicle or those that have a separate power source from the vehicle or
where they do not operate as an automatic function when the vehicle is driven are not permitted. Where the device is in question the presenter may
provide evidence as to the suitability of the device for road use from the manufacturer of the device."
So it looks like they're really clamping down.
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
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Staple balls
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posted on 9/4/09 at 11:26 AM |
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Might be worth wiring the bike speedo into the car properly?
Pull the 12v down to 3v with a few resistors and solder everything together.
Could just about be enough to get it past SVA.
[Edited on 9/4/09 by Staple balls]
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matt_gsxr
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posted on 9/4/09 at 11:27 AM |
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it turns out that in the Sigma range
the BC506 and BC906 don't remember the wheel size (on battery removal)
The
BC1106 and BC1606L do remember their wheel size information (on battery removal).
So 02GF74 solution on a BC1606L should satisfy. Also the BC1606L has in its manual that it can read up to 199.5MPH.
Now to get a new bike computer!
I guess even this will be outlawed by IVA (as it is a bike computer).
Matt
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matt_gsxr
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posted on 13/4/09 at 08:17 AM |
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I managed to put something together. I went with a voltage regulator with a fixed output (3.3v)*. The circuit is the simplest (no other components).
I couldn't get the LM317 working.
The CR3032 cells are the same size as a 1p coil, so that is how I mocked up the fake battery.
The only ugly bit is that I had to cut the lid of the battery cover, but that was inevitable.
Seems to work fine. Thanks for the advice.
Matt
*Maplin part: 150mA Ultra Low Dropout Positive Voltage Regulator TS2950CT-3.3
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