smart51
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 02:21 PM |
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Steel wheels and MSVA
Will the inspector test the wheels with the sphere of doom? I'm using 13"x4J steel rims on my build and now that I'm painting them,
I realise the edges are not radiused. Do I need wheel trims for MSVA or are wheel rims, by luck, somehow exempt?
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tony-devon
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 02:32 PM |
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how much do the rims protrude past the tyre?
do you have mudguards on the build? ( they arent needed for MSVA) but if so then just make sure they are wider than the tyres
when the kebab is rolled along the side then it cant come into contact with it unless they well poking out, then its a different situation anyway
depending on grazing or colliding, that would be grazing if it did touch the rims, and only a small rad is required
heavy is good, heavy is reliable, and if it breaks, hit them with it
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smart51
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 02:43 PM |
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The very edge of the rim is about flush with the tyres. The centre boss is recessed a bit. I am fitting cycle wings, mostly to hold the reflectors
which have to be near the outside edge of the vehicle. The blunted but not radiused edges can be touched with a finger but not with a verticle edge
held against the cycle wing. Is that MSVA OK then?
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tony-devon
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 02:51 PM |
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Ive never put a bodied vehicle through the test.
but check the manual, from my experience it should be fine
oh how messed up is this system,
you can pass MSVA with knackered bearings, leaking suspension, bald tyres, no mudguards etc etc
but then fall foul of the construction and use regs.
if I get a chance tonight I will go through the manual and have a look at the bodied vehicle section
reflectors as the lights also have to be within 400mm of the outside of the vehicle, I mount mine inboard of the tyres, then can run with or without
guards as you choose.
have a browse of the manual, unless its states you cant do something, then you can do it 
its actually a very simple test, only thing I fell foul of was noise level, oh and the silencer didnt have a marking of manufacturer, set of stamps,
some wadding and 20 mins in the car park
you probably already aware but the VIN must be stamped into the chassis, not on a rivetted plate
heavy is good, heavy is reliable, and if it breaks, hit them with it
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smart51
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 03:02 PM |
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I'll have to check the silencer. It is the stock can from the donor but I don't know if it's marked. The vin is on a 3mm plate
welded to the chassis. I guess this is OK.
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tony-devon
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 03:13 PM |
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you can mark it up yourself, jimbobs exhausts or whatever LOL
regarding VIN number
in an accessible position and readily legible, the required vehicle identification number by a method such as hammering or stamping, in such a way
that it cannot be obliterated or deteriorate
now I would say that your ok, however from personal experience and chats with my tester I was told that he wanted to see it stamped into the actual
chassis, not a removable plate
I have just had a quick look at the bodied vehicle section, think that you need to have a read yourself, its very different to our test  nothing
looks complicated, but think that you need to just satisfy yourself that its ok
however I think that this will be your get out clause
The gaps of wheel arches are assumed to be filled by an imaginary surface forming a smooth continuation of the surrounding external surface. Jacking
points and wheels are not taken into consideration as they have their own requirements.
This check must be carried out with the wheels in the straight ahead position only. Exposed engines, exhaust, steering suspension and brake components
on vehicles fitted with “cycle wing” mudguards must be checked from the front only.
11. Check that no part of the wheel, located above the horizontal plane passing through the axis of rotation (other than in the case of tyres, wheel
discs and central wheel securing nuts which have separate requirements at 12 below), projects outside the body plan form.
12. Check that any wheel disc or central securing nut that projects outside the body plan form;
a) protrudes no more than 30mm from the wheel
b) has a radius of curvature of at least 30mm
heavy is good, heavy is reliable, and if it breaks, hit them with it
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StevieB
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 06:54 PM |
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I put my Indy through on steelies, I just shoved a very cheap and nasty set of minilite style hub caps on (£10 from my local auto jumble).
Not sure if the centre hub would have been a problem for radius, but figured £10 was worth it not to fail on something daft like that (I failed on
emissions and speedo calibration instead  )
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