bud44
|
| posted on 26/10/21 at 02:23 PM |
|
|
Chassis vin location
I just want to be 100% as to where the stamped in chassis number should be.
I have read the manual and 99.9% sure it should be on the offside front in some place.
Can somebody please confirm this is the case?
I have had the number CNCd onto a piece of plate and want to be sure before I weld it in place.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 26/10/21 at 02:32 PM |
|
|
I don't think it needs to be over-complicated!
Fix it in a prominent place, easy to see without too much looking around, and permanently fixed to a permanent bit of the chassis. I don't
believe it's necessary to weld it in place - auto manufacturers use rivets (not pop rivets, proper rivets), but I used a combination of pop
rivets and Tiger sealant - that's not coming off without a struggle! Mine is on the nearside, just in front of the firewall - take the bonnet
off, there it is.
When I put my car through SVA (precursor to IVA) I also needed to have the VIN stamped elsewhere on the chassis. I don't know if this is still a
requirement, but car manufacturers do this as well.
|
|
|
gremlin1234
|
| posted on 26/10/21 at 02:42 PM |
|
|
the relevant section is statutory plates, the manufactures plate and main vin are two separate plates.
the chassis vin must be stamped/etched or a plate welded (continuous weld around whole plate) whereas the manufacturers pate is a little simpler. but
must have the relevant information in the correct order in a rectangle
7. The Stamped in VIN must be marked on the chassis, frame or other
similar structure which is not easily removable, on the right hand side
of the vehicle when viewed from the rear (see Notes 6, 8, 9 & 12).
8. The Stamped in VIN must be placed in a clearly visible and accessible
position by a method such as hammering, stamping, etching (metal
chassis) or embossed, moulded into the structure (glass fibre or
carbon fibre chassis) so that it cannot be obliterated or deteriorate.
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 26/10/21 at 02:54 PM |
|
|
gremlin1234 has it covered.
On my MK Indy for SVA I punched the VIN numver onto the chassis in visible location.
1. for SVA examiner to read
2. for me to read
3. for a future buyer to read
Tip when you use alphanumeric punches with a hammer you can defrom the wall of the chassis member so go careful. Make sure the VIN is visible though.
If you've had a seperate plate made then I'd weld it on to the chassis.
In either case you'll need to touch up the paint after you've finished.
|
|
|
craig1410
|
| posted on 26/10/21 at 03:34 PM |
|
|
I stamped mine onto a 3mm thick steel plate to avoid the collapsing chassis tube problem, and then welded the plate onto the chassis rails just in
front of the driver's seat so it's easy to find. Much easier to stamp it off the car and then weld than to stamp hollow chassis tubes IMO.
|
|
|
James
|
| posted on 27/10/21 at 12:53 PM |
|
|
You could be like me and forget to attach the beautifully laser etched plates your mate has made at a local F1 team he works at, get to the SVA and
when the examiner asks, have to run around every damn local business asking to borrow a set of stamps, leave your phone as collateral and sprint back
and stamp it there and then in the test centre! 
And then fail because an indicator lamp failed on the way to the test and you didn't think to carry spares!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 27/10/21 at 02:01 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by James
You could be like me and forget to attach the beautifully laser etched plates your mate has made at a local F1 team he works at, get to the SVA and
when the examiner asks, have to run around every damn local business asking to borrow a set of stamps, leave your phone as collateral and sprint back
and stamp it there and then in the test centre!
And then fail because an indicator lamp failed on the way to the test and you didn't think to carry spares!
Harsh SVA tale.
Another tip for the OP - remember you (and others) will want to see and read the VIN looking down. It's handy it the VIN is marked
"upside down" so it reads the "right way" upviewed from above.
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 27/10/21 at 05:05 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
...I don't believe it's necessary to weld it in place - auto manufacturers use rivets (not pop rivets, proper rivets), but I used a
combination of pop rivets and Tiger sealant - that's not coming off without a struggle!
The chassis has to be either stamped or engraved and if you use a separate plate (so as not to dent the tube when stamping) for this it MUST be seam
welded all the way around.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
gremlin1234
|
| posted on 27/10/21 at 05:42 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
The chassis has to be either stamped or engraved and if you use a separate plate (so as not to dent the tube when stamping) for this it MUST be seam
welded all the way around.
yes absolutely for the chassis plate, the manufactures plate is less restricted
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 28/10/21 at 08:22 AM |
|
|
If you web search VIN location on production cars it shows several locations for it.
1. In the engine bay
2. On the A or B pillar
3. On the boot/trunk floor
4. On the dashboard (visible through the windscreen/windshield) - useful for sourcing replacement parts / tyres etc.
I think the fixing methods for each location may well be different. For sure there will be at least one location that demands a permanent attachment
method designed to be not easy to mess around with.
For IVA purposes you have to go with the basis of only wanting to mark it once and doing it to pass the IVA.
|
|
|
Schrodinger
|
| posted on 28/10/21 at 10:01 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
If you web search VIN location on production cars it shows several locations for it.
1. In the engine bay
2. On the A or B pillar
3. On the boot/trunk floor
4. On the dashboard (visible through the windscreen/windshield) - useful for sourcing replacement parts / tyres etc.
I think the fixing methods for each location may well be different. For sure there will be at least one location that demands a permanent attachment
method designed to be not easy to mess around with.
For IVA purposes you have to go with the basis of only wanting to mark it once and doing it to pass the IVA.
The IVA manual is quite clear in that for it's purposes it has to be on the right hand side and is usually found in the engine bay.
[Edited on 28/10/21 by Schrodinger]
Keith
Aviemore
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 28/10/21 at 10:16 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
If you web search VIN location on production cars it shows several locations for it.
1. In the engine bay
2. On the A or B pillar
3. On the boot/trunk floor
4. On the dashboard (visible through the windscreen/windshield) - useful for sourcing replacement parts / tyres etc.
I think the fixing methods for each location may well be different. For sure there will be at least one location that demands a permanent attachment
method designed to be not easy to mess around with.
For IVA purposes you have to go with the basis of only wanting to mark it once and doing it to pass the IVA.
The IVA manual is quite clear in that for it's purposes it has to be on the right hand side and is usually found in the engine bay.
[Edited on 28/10/21 by Schrodinger]
That's it covered then.
|
|
|
craig1410
|
| posted on 28/10/21 at 10:21 AM |
|
|
Yeah, I should have mentioned, I have two plates. One where I said earlier under the driver's seat which is welded, and a second aluminium plate
in the engine bay on the bulkhead which is riveted.
|
|
|
