westdown
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posted on 29/5/03 at 01:06 PM |
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TIE WRAPS
Hi
Can any one tell me if you can TIE wrap the loom direct to the chassis or do you have to use some form of block to hold the loom away from the metel
work. I have had a look in the archieves but have found nothing .Any help would be appreaciated.
Thanks in advance.
Dave
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David Jenkins
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posted on 29/5/03 at 01:17 PM |
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This is a guess, but...
Anything that holds the loom securely, stops it rubbing against anything else, and generally looks neat and tidy is perfectly OK.
I spiral-wrapped my loom before using tie-wraps, but I've seen plenty of cars using tie-wraps alone.
I stress that this is only my opinion - you could always ring your local SVA test centre.
cheers,
David
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Mark H
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posted on 29/5/03 at 01:49 PM |
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I would say David J is right (but as I'm always saying it seems, who knows what the rules are, or the mind of the SVA examiner?)
Neat wiring deff way to go for SVA. Not worth rushing the build at this stage.
Mine passed with being wrapped in sparkys tape, then most of it was put in split conduit stuff and p-clipped along the chassis. Almost as easy as tie
wrapping, and no niggling doubts of sagging, etc.
Get to an auto jumble or local motor spares and have a rummage. I think i paid less than £2 for the piping, and about 3 pclips are less than £1!
And took me a few hours with a beer and the radio on!
But whilst you've got your tie wraps out, ensure fuel/brake pipes are atatched to chassis with em at least every 12 inches.
Mark
Mark Harrison and
Q986 KCP back from the dead...
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David Jenkins
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posted on 29/5/03 at 01:56 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mark H
But whilst you've got your tie wraps out, ensure fuel/brake pipes are atatched to chassis with em at least every 12 inches.
Mark
In fact, go through the whole lot and ensure that the loom, brake pipes, fuel pipes and any control cables are all separate and not rubbing against
anything (this includes flapping around to the point where they could rub).
DJ
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zetec
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posted on 29/5/03 at 02:06 PM |
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I would get some split conduit which is really easy to use. I fixed every 250mm using cable ties and saddles riveted to the chassis. This way you can
start laying in the cables and if you need to add another just slip it in the conduit and when finished tighten the cable ties. From what I was told
the SVA inspector is looking for similar standards as used on modern production cars. Real case of a neat job is more time consuming then expensive.
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westdown
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posted on 30/5/03 at 12:45 PM |
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Thanks
Many thanks all, think I will try one of these idears or may be both. Have now got hold of some stick on ty wrap block type things. Thanks again.
Dave
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timf
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posted on 30/5/03 at 01:05 PM |
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stick on cable tie bases
the just sticky ones tend to fall off after a while. If they have a hole in the middle then either self tap'er them or rivit them to the chassis
at sva freindly spacing of course.
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