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Author: Subject: Locost Rebuild query
Lancs7s

posted on 17/1/07 at 10:02 AM Reply With Quote
Locost Rebuild query

Hello, after browsing on this site for the last couple of months I've decided its time to get my 7 back on the road, I inherited it from my uncle a few years ago after I helped him build it in the early 90's. Its been on a SORN ever since.
The crossflow engine in there is not even worth thinking about using so I've decided to got for a bike engine as I've experience with these and plenty of knowlegable friends.
To get to my question....the get the bike engine to fit the chassis it will need some fairly serious welding of backets for the engine/prop mounting/gear shift etc, as well somework around the pedal box and new bulkheads. Maybe also new powder coating.
Therefore I'd like to buy a new BEC chassis from a reputable manufacturer. As my car was built pre the SVA test but has had many MOT's will the car need to go through SVA to be legal? I would hope to keep as many other parts from the original car as possible.

Thankyou - I look forward to you invaluable advice in the future.
Pete

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BenB

posted on 17/1/07 at 10:11 AM Reply With Quote
From a point of view of the engine swap itself it shouldn't need SVA. After all, if you do an engine swap (e.g. stick a V8 in everything) you don't need to... Guess you have to tell the DVLA for the V5 and of course insurance... If you re-chassis it as long as the chassis is of the same type and structure, you'll get away with a straight swap (after all who's going to know- if the chassis no is the same and the new chassis isn't made out of unobtanium only discovered last year (ie obviously not as old as the chassis is supposed to be) there shouldn't be a problem!!!)....

Do you definately need a new chassis? If the old one is okay I'd just get some engine mounts made up.... You could always get everything in place and cut to size then use a call-out welder to zap it all together- prob cheaper than a new chassis... Or get a welder and some scrap metal and get practising.... Might take a bit of practice before you'ld want to do the major load bearing stuff.....

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02GF74

posted on 17/1/07 at 10:16 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Lancs7s
The crossflow engine in there is not even worth thinking about using so I've decided to got for a bike engine as I've experience with these and plenty of knowlegable friends.


why? you can build up a crossflow that will give 120-150 bhp for the less the price a bike engine conversion will cost you and still have a reverse gear.

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BenB

posted on 17/1/07 at 10:20 AM Reply With Quote
And with a Xflow you get the advantage that your under-bonnet oil spray will ensure your chassis never goes rusty

Sorry- shouldn't joke. It's just most of the Xflow engines I've seen have been fairly hungry on the oil and when you see the underside of the bonnet you realise why... Then again, they were probably knackered....

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Hellfire

posted on 17/1/07 at 10:24 AM Reply With Quote
NO - you wont need an SVA.

New powder coating is a pain in the Aris... paint it!

Most manufacturers are very capable of adapting a CEC to a BEC... MK probably have the most experience, though MNR and the rest should not be discounted.

Nice choice by the way!


Steve






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iank

posted on 17/1/07 at 10:56 AM Reply With Quote
Things may be more complicated if it is still described as a Ford Escort on the V5.
Though if you have MOTs and credible evidence that it was done prior to SVA it is possible to get corrected.

I suspect getting a BEC fitted would be rather cheaper than getting a drivable crossflow above 120bhp personally

Though depending how knackered it is it's probably worth getting a new MOT first just so you're only dealing with fitting it, not fixing everything else at the same time.





--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous

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smart51

posted on 17/1/07 at 11:04 AM Reply With Quote
A bike engine and ancillaries is going to cost you £1000. Choping and remaking the chassis more on top of this. You'll need a new exhaust too which is more money.

Find out what kind of suped up crossflow you can get for the same money. It'll be an easier rebuild certainly. It may cost you less too.

Have a word with matt from procomp to see what a crossflow is capable of. U2U procomp or get his contact details from http://www.procomp.co.uk


A bike engine is a good choice for a new build but for conversion you'll probably get a better return for your money by keeping what you've got.


[Edited on 17-1-2007 by smart51]

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Lancs7s

posted on 17/1/07 at 11:08 AM Reply With Quote
Its down as 'Locost 7' on the V5, it wouldnt get through an MOT with the chassis in its current state so would need replacing first.

Good point, I might ask MK how much they would charge to make they alteration. Then add it the cost of getting the chassis to them and see how much short of the £710 they are currentely asking for a new one.

Thanks for the help.

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iank

posted on 17/1/07 at 12:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Lancs7s
Its down as 'Locost 7' on the V5, it wouldnt get through an MOT with the chassis in its current state so would need replacing first.

Good point, I might ask MK how much they would charge to make they alteration. Then add it the cost of getting the chassis to them and see how much short of the £710 they are currentely asking for a new one.

Thanks for the help.


Excellent news, here are the exact rules for what you need to avoid SVA on the rebuild.

http://direct.gov.uk/Motoring/BuyingAndSellingAVehicle/RegisteringAVehicle/RegisteringAVehicleArticles/fs/en?CONTENT_ID=10014246&chk=VsQ/Fs

quote:

In order to retain the original registration mark:

* cars and car-derived vans must use:

The original unmodified chassis or unaltered bodyshell (i.e. body and chassis as one unit - monocoque); or a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell of the same specification as the original supported by evidence from the dealer or manufacturer (e.g. receipt).

And two other major components from the original vehicle – ie suspension (front & back); steering assembly; axles (both); transmission or engine.



The major component thing is a little theoretical as most don't have recorded serial numbers on the V5 so proving they were changed during the rebuild is effectively impossible.





--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous

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DIY Si

posted on 17/1/07 at 05:31 PM Reply With Quote
What's up with the chassis? Has it developed a bad case of rot? Would it possible to cut out the affected tubes and replace them?





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