Fishface
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 11:56 AM |
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how to stamp without collapsing the tube
I tried stamping the left hand side rail (before realising it was the wrong side) and made a right mess and collapsed the tube. It was a small section
tube forming the diagonal brace. However now I have to stamp the chassis for real and on the right side but im afraid i will make a righ mucking fess
all over again. Are there any tips on getting the spacing right and not collapsing the tube. Im building a super six which actually has 40mm box
section so i shouldnt miss. When i stamped my engine number it took about a dozen goes. The kit im using is the kitcar builde solutions one. Worse
comes to worse then i will be welding a plate on but would rather not risk setting light to the car at this as completed stage 
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nick205
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 12:02 PM |
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I stamped mine on a box section tube close to the edge to avoid the same problem.
The best solution I've seen is to stamp a separate plate then weld it onto the chassis rail - only needs a small tack weld in each corner.
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daviep
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 12:04 PM |
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As suggested by russbost in this TOPIC you could engrave rather than stamp the
number.
Personally I would stamp a piece of steel strip and tack weld on to the chassis, you can merge it in with filler if you're concerned it
doesn't look permanent enough, then give it a coat of paint.
It's much easier to stamp on a nice solid bench / vice than on top of the chassis and if you muck it up just cut another strip and start
again.
Cheers
Davie
EDIT Damn you slow fingers
[Edited on 29/3/12 by daviep]
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 12:08 PM |
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i stamped mine near the edge
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russbost
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 12:13 PM |
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As Davie says, either use an engraver (dirt cheap off ebay) or stamp the plate on a bench then weld it on afterwards.
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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SeaBass
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 12:13 PM |
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I stamped onto a piece of strip and seam welded the ends.
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Coopz
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 12:15 PM |
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I had trouble stamping the box section also, and after I failed IVA on a stamped plate welded to the chassis I used a small engraver with a stencil
and engraved it on the chassis rail. Clean and easy solution in the end.
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Bumble
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 12:33 PM |
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I too had issues stamping the chassis rail so in the end made up a plate, stamped it then welded to the chassis rail. Passed IVA without issue.
If however you do go for stamping the rail ensure you sit the car on axle stands before stamping as leaving it on its wheels does not help
matters......as I found out!!
Matt
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adithorp
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 02:51 PM |
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I stamped a plate and welded it to the chassis rail. Seam welded all around so there's no chance to remove easily.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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loggyboy
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 02:53 PM |
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Engraved:
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whitestu
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 03:09 PM |
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quote:
or stamp the plate on a bench then weld it on afterwards.
That's what I did.
Stu
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 03:17 PM |
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Engrave with a dremel. Write on with pencil first to avoid spelling mistakes!
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myke pocock
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| posted on 29/3/12 at 07:52 PM |
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Yep, Dremel for me also.
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Fishface
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| posted on 2/7/12 at 05:48 PM |
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Just got a nice shiny dremel for my birthday. Happy b'day to me, happy b'day to me.......
So can anyone tell me the latest requirements for letter size and spacings, including etching depth. It also has to be on the drivers side (right hand
drive car)
cheers mucho 
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loggyboy
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| posted on 3/7/12 at 08:01 AM |
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It's in the IVA manual.
Mistral Motorsport
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Fishface
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| posted on 3/7/12 at 11:11 AM |
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For info:
1. The VIN number must consist of 17 digits (except for mass-produced vehicles see note 6)
2. The information must be shown in a single line. (in the case of a mass produced vehicle the use of two lines is permissible)
3. Capital letters and numerals must be used for the manufacturer’s name and VIN
4. There must not be any gaps large enough to insert extra characters between the characters for the VIN shown on the manufacturer’s plate or stamped
into the vehicle.
5. Other than in the case of a Mass Produced vehicle the characters on the manufacturer’s plate must be at least 3.5mm high.
6. The characters used for the VIN stamped into the chassis, frame or other similar structure must be at least 3.5mm high.
7. Use of the letter I, the letter O, the letter Q, dashes, asterisks and other special signs are not permitted (see note 9)
8. In instances where the VIN has been changed evidence of agreement with the Approval Authority must be provided.
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mr T
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| posted on 25/7/12 at 09:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Engraved:
Is that a fail the letter I 
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loggyboy
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| posted on 25/7/12 at 09:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mr T
Is that a fail the letter I
Yep - http://WWW.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=172332
Mistral Motorsport
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 26/7/12 at 05:38 AM |
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I tried engraving but was cr*p at it, so stamped a plate and seam-welded to top rail in engine bay. IVA didn't complain on the test so must be
OK with it (didn't put it on my to-do list anyhow)
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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Slimy38
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| posted on 26/7/12 at 07:28 AM |
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I do find it a 'double standards' that production cars only have the VIN stamped plate riveted on to the car, whereas we have to weld it
on and even then it might not pass.
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