Dick Axtell
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 posted on 18/9/12 at 10:37 AM |
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And another - IVA fail !!
Yup - another one bites the dust. Kidderminster test centre, seems to be much bigger and newer than the Birmingham centre (as was). The IVA tester was
very helpful, made constructive comments about the failure points, and presented me with a very clear list of required fixes. Some will be
straightforward, others will need a lot of thought, then suitable mods.
Transported car via rent-a-carrier outfit. Interesting drive thru Birmingham traffic, with a vehicle bigger than I'm previously used to.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 10:55 AM |
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Hi There
What sort of things did you fail on? Don't despair - I had 13 failures on my SAV (first year when it came out) and I thought they were all
sensible things to fix.
Again, I thought the examiners were good guys wanting everyone to be safe.
Enquiring minds need to know.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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BenB
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 11:50 AM |
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I had two sheets worth of failures at my first SVA 
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greed1
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 12:08 PM |
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Mine failed at Kidderminster last month
The fuel pump died so he couldn't do half of the test but was very helpful fingers xed for the retest next month
Hope yours isn't to bad
Drive it stright sideways
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 12:12 PM |
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I had 5 failures on my IVA first time through. But I totally expected it after the comment from one of the guys in the DVLA office...."They do
like their re-tests down there!". I think they must be on commission for retest fees!
Get the list of failure points up on here and let the collective give you help in sorting them ready for the re-test 
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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adithorp
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 12:24 PM |
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hard luck. At least you now have a definative list of jobs to do.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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nadwgbr
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 02:48 PM |
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hi all.......i second that request for a list of what your fails were being posted on here.....in fact that goes for anyone with points that were
failed at first time of testing.....seems like a valuable source of info for those of us still building/preparing for IVA....
Apologies if there's already a 'thread' for listing IVA fails but feel free to point me in the right direction if there is..
Cheers guys.
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 03:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
hard luck. At least you now have a definative list of jobs to do.
Ooooooooh Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1:Side Repeater Lamps - (Remember that fix which involved putting these into the headlamp shell?); Visibility to 5% rear DOWN. (Fail).
(Could solve this by raising headlamps - will need new h/lamp mounting bar.)
2: Rear Fog - Must only light when dipped or main beam on.
(Sort out wiring for this one.)
3: Identification of controls - Horn. (I followed a suggestion, from here, to re-wire my horn on to the Sierra stalk control for screen washer).
(Remove horn label from Sierra s/wheel, and s/glue it to stalk).
4: Fuel pipe chafing on bolt, NS rear, & query Rear fuel filter security.
(Fit additional P-clip to hold fuel pipe away from bolt. Sort out bracket for in-line filter. Will have to remove fuel tank for
this).
5: Fuel pipe construction, under bonnet. (Bought this from Stoneleigh show, sold as approved fuel pipe, but didn't keep receipt, which
has to declare material suitability for fuel.)
(Buy small amount of new fuel pipe, and keep receipt).
6: Front brake hose - Fouls @ full lock, both sides.
(Got alt braided hoses. Fit bracket, from donor, make up short bridge pipe, and fit both to front calipers).
7: All electrical components must be secure, of adequate capacity, and insulated as required, so as to prevent short circuiting.
(Get plastic covers for battery terminal, and starter solenoid).
8: Lack of self-centering, from full lock. Have to search around here for some tips. Gotta get front tracking correctly reset.
9: Speedo reading high @ 60 and 70mph.
(Another chat with Speedy Cables, and maybe get my Smith's speedo recalibrated).
Enough to be going on with, but can do most. Number 8 worries me most.
[Edited on 18/9/12 by Dick Axtell]
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 07:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dick Axtell
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
hard luck. At least you now have a definative list of jobs to do.
receipt, which has to declare material suitability for fuel.)
8: Lack of self-centering, from full lock. Have to search around here for some tips. Gotta get front tracking correctly reset.
Enough to be going on with, but can do most. Number 8 worries me most.
[Edited on 18/9/12 by Dick Axtell]
I had the same and had loads of advice from the forum. First thing suggested was the caster angle - not sure what yours is but I was told around
6-7deg is OK, I designed mine in at around 7deg.
The other things were the freedom of the steering components. Try disconnecting the track-rods and see how free the steering feels. If that's
OK, then check the wheels for freedom of movement throughout the lock witht the rods disconnected and the wheels raised off the ground.
IIRC another recommendation was for a little toe-out but I may be wrong.
And the final thing was to put the tyres up to around 40 psi to aid freedom of movement.
Someone else will be along soon I'm sure, but I hope that helps
JB
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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Coopz
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 07:22 PM |
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I would say that's a good fail, well done and good luck on your re-test!
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 07:33 PM |
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Re the brake flexibles fouling on full-lock. I assume that they are long enough, in which case, try slackening one end and re-installing with a slight
twist. That caused mine to move into a different position on full-lock, with no fouling.
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procomp
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 07:33 PM |
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Hi
Your right re number 8. The MK book chassis where jigged to give 0 caster. The guys who raced them in Locost championship either had new wishbones
made or simply cut and chopped the originals, but i think that gave problems with the amount of thread left in the wishbone.
If you work out the bush centers ( Chassis end ) try and find out if they are similar to the old Luego dimensions. If so you can buy them very cheap
off a Locost racer on here. ALLIED MOTORSPORT.
Cheers Matt
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 08:03 PM |
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I made my top wishbones so that they gave a bit more castor angle (as said by procomp). Also, as said above, make sure that every component in the
steering mechanism is moving freely.
It really is worth putting the effort in so that you get enough self-centring WITHOUT any tricks or fiddles - it does make for more comfortable
driving, not having to continuously adjust the steering wheel to keep a steady course (especially on a long journey).
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 19/9/12 at 07:43 PM |
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Feedback!!
Your comments and advice much appreciated. Mr. Jenkins' reply, in particular, giving me plenty of food for thought.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 19/9/12 at 09:33 PM |
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If your using a Sierra column then the lower bush can cause the column to bind slightly , I found changing it to a self aligning bearing vastly
improved the self centering as on my car the bush wasn't exactly in line with the column.. New/ reconditioned racks can be a bit tight and can
ease with a bit of use which helps as well . Best of luck with the retest
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