-matt
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 02:40 PM |
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IVA Fail
Well had my IVA Today, As expecting i failed, but i don't think it was too bad a fail.
Howard (bristol) was great, Gave tips on what to do next, and didn't just concentrate on edges Etc
Anyway i failed on:
1 - noise, i was registering between 99.5 and 100Db at 9K RPM. So this shouldn't take much to quieten it down.
2 - emissions, it was good at fast idle, but was way out at idle, so will need to play with fuelling.
3 - insufficient free travel in brake pedal, it just needs a longer rod.
4 - insufficient travel in handbrake, needs adjusting
5 - speedo, this was way out, my speedo was registering over 200MPH on the rolling road  . So will need to find somewhere to setup the acewell
digidash against gps.
6 - vin plate was not displayed in correct order, advised me to get a rectangular piece of aluminium, stamp MK Sportscars, then the Vin number
underneath, then score a line underneath, and leave the rest blank.
7 - reverse motor, he wants me to cover the terminals, then make a guard for the actual motor, incase of contact as very low.
8 - o/s wheel rubbing on full lock, i had put on a load of toe/out to aid self centring, but this seems to have caused rubbing on full lock, so will
put back centre now, and problem solved.
9 finally, he wasn't happy with some exposed wiring down the transmission tunnel, he wants it all covered up and secured to top.
So got a little bit of work to do, then book in a retest.
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 03:11 PM |
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As you say, not too bad a fail.
Howard did my test too, he was pretty helpful and allowed me 'tinkering' time when he could. He also did my re-test so no issues with
extra checks that weren't needed.
Good luck for the re-test 
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 03:52 PM |
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Not to bad.
Acewell is easy to set up. You should be able to do the calcs at home and punch the figures in and they will be quite close.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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stevegough
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 05:09 PM |
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Never mind - the vast majority of us fail first time, it can be quite daunting - you never really know what parts of your car are going to get the
third degree, but most of the time the test is almost a formality because you know EXACTLY what to do to put it right.
Well done, and good luck on the retest.
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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-matt
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 06:09 PM |
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Well I've got a few of the easy bits out of the way already 
As for the speedo, I've just had another look at the manual, and it looks like I've mounted it wrong, as i have the magnet crossing the
centre of the sensor, rather than to the side as per the manual.
But I'm also not sure I'm inputing the correct data into the digidash. I've got 195/50/15 tyres, which gives a tyre circumference
of 1810mm.
Do i just input this straight into the circumference setting on the dash, or do i need to take into account diff ratio Etc?
Also the next setting on the dash after circumference has a P then 3 digits between 001 and 199. is this anything to do with speedo? i can't
find anything about this setting.
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-matt
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 06:29 PM |
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Don't worry, I've just worked it out, the sensor it attached to the prop, the prop goes around 3.64 times faster than the diff. so need to
take the circumference and divide by 3.64.
So i need to input 497, not 1810.
No wonder it was so far out 
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russbost
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 06:43 PM |
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Matt
I see you've worked out your major error re the speedo! Plenty have done it b4 & I'm sure more will in future!, re your comment
"magnet crossing the centre of the sensor, rather than to the side as per the manual", it is better for the magnet to run along one of the
lines towards the end of the plastic barrel, going past the centre can sometimes cause mistriggering, the really important thing is that you
don't have the magnet running along the length of the barrel as that will defo cause it to mistrigger at anything over 20mph (might be even
lower with it on the prop)
Good luck with the rest of the bits, hope you get it sorted b4 winter - whoops too late!
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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-matt
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 08:01 PM |
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Thanks russ, unfortunately it is running across the length of the barrel, so will have to move that aswell.
The bad news is i think both the sensor and magnet are held on with sikaflex, so won't be an easy job removing!
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russbost
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 09:52 PM |
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Haven't you always wanted to say "scalpel" in an authoritative tone!?
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Davegtst
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| posted on 28/9/12 at 10:19 PM |
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What engine is it? 9K revs for the sound test seems really high, isn't it 3/4 of peak power. They did me with the vin plate one too, gutted as
i don't think it should really fail on that point.
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-matt
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| posted on 29/9/12 at 03:26 AM |
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Yes I was expecting lower, I'd put 10,500 max power on IVA form. But will just shove one of those baffles/db killers which should do the job.
It's a 08 R1 BTW
He is technicals right with the plate, but I don't see the problem with what I'd done, anyway I've made up a new one already to what
he wanted.
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-matt
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| posted on 16/10/12 at 01:18 PM |
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I don't believe it!! Just had my retest, sailed through everything, got to the noise, and it is now even louder than before!!!
I used one of those eBay DB killers in the tail pipe!
Is a bike silencer prob the best way to go to pass this?
As well as maybe try and silence engine bay a bit?
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adithorp
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| posted on 16/10/12 at 02:09 PM |
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Thats a bugger! Never heard of a DB killer making it worse. Induction and engine noise adds quite a lot. Several people have had good results by
lining the bonnet with accoustic foam. A bike exhaust might help...or might not; The R1 carbon can is pretty quiet.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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40inches
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| posted on 16/10/12 at 06:37 PM |
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Is that ANOTHER £90 for another retest?
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-matt
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| posted on 16/10/12 at 07:38 PM |
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Yes, i found it odd!, at idle it definably made it quieter, but at 9K revs it made it louder. He let me try again by taking it back out, and it was
100DB, compared to 102DB with it!
I think i will invest in a Pipercross PX600 airbox, so i can eliminate the induction sound, and then take apart my silencer (its a tube engineering
silencer w/cat) and see how well its packed?
And yes this will be another £90, so i really don't want to fail this again!
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40inches
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| posted on 17/10/12 at 11:09 AM |
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Do you have a decibel meter? You can get them for around £25. It doesn't have to be perfectly accurate, because you
only want comparative readings.
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Irony
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| posted on 17/10/12 at 11:41 AM |
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You can get decibel meters on iPhones and Android phones these days. I guess there not that accurate but you know the amount you need to drop by so
even if the reading isn't the same as the IVA as long as you drop by the right amount it should be okay.
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ashg
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| posted on 17/10/12 at 12:23 PM |
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just go and drop some money on a massive silencer. most of skcc run a minimum of a 6inch diameter box some have 7's. it will be worth the
money in the end or you will have the same problem all over again when you do a track day.
edit.. in the grand scheme of things £200 for a 6inch silencer is cheap considering the retest is £90 a pop. i thought if you had less than 6faults
then the retest was foc. if you look at the fail sheet it says which items can be retested free.
[Edited on 17/10/2012 by ashg]
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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-matt
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| posted on 17/10/12 at 09:21 PM |
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Yes i might just buy one of these:
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/6%22_Stainless_Steel_Silencer_SIL6
And then sell the one I've got now, which has a built in cat which is not needed for a few years now
I've also bought a piper cross air filter, so this should quieten down the induction side a good bit.
Hopefully this should be enough. And at least i know i should be ok for track days then anyway.
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 17/10/12 at 10:17 PM |
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I agree with Irony, get an app to measure the dB, then work out what the difference is and use that as a guide. Best to get it so you reckon
it's 97-98dB to give yourself a little leeway.
I used an R1 can on my Pinto and the noise came in at 94dB. The original exhaust would have pushed it off the scale I reckon!
Hope you get it sorted soon
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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