Dave Bailey
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 01:52 PM |
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IVA Fail...
Well arrived at 08.00 this morning at Southampton for the test and finished at about 12.30...
Tested the Vehicle with the screen and got I hope would be considered as a 'good Fail' Some frustration not with the tester who was
very fair but on myself because the fails probably should have been avoided...
1. Number Plate light Showing slight white to the rear.
2. Interior Mirror not permanent... Suction type not acceptable
3. Used PTFE tape on Brake fittings... (Not allowed)
4. Front / Rear bias (rears locked first)
5. Radius on the bottom of the dash. 15mm approx. measured needs to be 19mm. Annoying should have checked this.. Was told that the Carbon Mods Dash
was ok...
6. Exhaust Mount Bracket incorrect radius
7. Low handbrake effort 16% should be 18% min
8. Vin plate plug welded.. needs to be seem welded.
Might have a beer tonight to celebrate the 'fail' then start planning the retest....
Thanks to everyone on the site who helped me get this far...
Dave B
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theduck
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 02:05 PM |
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Sounds like a good fail and should be mostly easy fixes. I'm sure there is something in the IVA manual about dash radius being different between
hard and padded surfaces
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adithorp
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 02:14 PM |
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Hard Luck. Not a bad fail.
1. Being picky but if it shows, it shows.
2. Not the first to fail for that.
3. Thats def' a no no.
4. Whats your set-up? Are the masters different diameters and the right way around?
5. Odd one. My CarbonMods dash is 40mm diameter on the bottom edge so easily 18mm dia'.
6. Get filling.
7. Might be right with some bedding in.
8. They've just changed this so easy to get wrong.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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theprisioner
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 02:36 PM |
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Good fail
1. Unlucky
3. I did so too but managed to conceal it from the IVA man, the Willwood callipers would not seal without it, tried everything
4.The first important thing they found!
5. I used Plaskool dash, different radii??, sounds like the rubber is coming out.
6. Trivial to fix
7. Almost got caught by that one, had to do extensive bedding in trials on the way to the IVA station
8. Welder out!
[Edited on 29/7/13 by theprisioner]
[Edited on 29/7/13 by theprisioner]
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 02:53 PM |
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If the brake pipe won't seal without PTFE tape I'd suspect the end of the pipe has been made to the wrong shape. I'd shine a light
down the calliper hole and see if it is a conical pit or a cone, each need a different pipe shape to seal
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Irony
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 03:13 PM |
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Not a bad fail.
If you can't use PTFE tape then what is the best solution? I haven't filled my braking system yet and I have used PTFE tape. Guess I
shall be removing all the fittings then!
The VIN plate has to be seam welded? I thought you could get away with riveting it? I don't have access to a welder so this poses a problem
for me.
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theprisioner
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 03:22 PM |
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Would somebody tell me what is wrong with PTFE tape, I have no evidence of it being dissolved by the brake fluid?
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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Peteff
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 03:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Irony
Not a bad fail.
If you can't use PTFE tape then what is the best solution? I haven't filled my braking system yet and I have used PTFE tape. Guess I
shall be removing all the fittings then!
If it's a brake union it should not need anything it should seal on the flare. If it's a banjo fitting annealed copper washers should be
used either side of it.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 03:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Irony
if you can't use PTFE tape then what is the best solution?
copper pipe and the right fittings and a decent flairing tool 
copper pipe seals better as its softer and re-shapes itself to fit as you tighen (well all of them do a bit, but copper is the softest/easiest type)
so even if the shape of the union/calier/flare isn't perfect it compensates
I've never done any more than this on any car I've ever had - and no leaks yet
[Edited on 29/7/2013 by mcerd1]
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 03:46 PM |
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PTFE tape often tears when fittings are tightened up can get into valves causing them to not seal. Using it on brake fittings is just ignoring the
real problem that the copper pipe is not seated correctly, mind too that the PTFI does nothing to seal up the pipe going through the union.
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MsD
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 04:14 PM |
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All relatively easy fixes then- the good work!
Can you explain what number 1 means?
Mark.
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chrism
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 05:20 PM |
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The VIN plate one doesnt sound correct, I thought it was only the chassis number plate (If not stamped directly into the chassis) that needed seem
welding, and that the VIN plate was OK just being riveted.
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A little hard work never killed anyone, but why take the risk!
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loggyboy
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 05:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chrism
The VIN plate one doesnt sound correct, I thought it was only the chassis number plate (If not stamped directly into the chassis) that needed seem
welding, and that the VIN plate was OK just being riveted.
Possibly just a slight misquote by the OP?
Mistral Motorsport
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loggyboy
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 05:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MsD
All relatively easy fixes then- the good work!
Can you explain what number 1 means?
Mark.
Numberplate light should be shrouded so the bulb cant be seen from behind.
Mistral Motorsport
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chrism
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 05:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by MsD
All relatively easy fixes then- the good work!
Can you explain what number 1 means?
Mark.
Numberplate light should be shrouded so the bulb cant be seen from behind.
Could possibly be a bad design exagerated by the angled back panel if its a seven.
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A little hard work never killed anyone, but why take the risk!
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MsD
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 05:38 PM |
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Thanks for the above reply's regarding number plate light..
Mark.
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adithorp
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 06:12 PM |
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Re. PTFE on brake fitting...
It shouldn't be used (or needed) on brake unions as they should seal on the flare and banjo fittings on the washers as others have stated. If it
doesn't something is wrong with the flare (or machining of the hole).
If the offending item is the tapper fitting adapters on Wilwood calipers (as with The Prisoners car), then I'd understand it's use and I
had to resort to it on mine. Despite my best efforts and years of experience, it was the only way I could prevent them weeping. I left a section in
brake fluid to test it's reaction and it had no effect on the tape. I was careful not to overlap the end of the fitting to avoid any getting
inside the system. I also trimmed back the excess so it wasn't obvious.
THIS from Frosts is the only other alternative I know of. In
the picture it's being used on a union and shouldn't be need.
...now I'm going to run for cover. 
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 07:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by theprisioner
Would somebody tell me what is wrong with PTFE tape, I have no evidence of it being dissolved by the brake fluid?
If a brake fitting will not seal without resorting to bodging with PTFE then the flare is not up to standard or the wrong fitting has been used.
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theprisioner
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 08:00 PM |
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In principle I totally agree, as I said a total last resort. As you say the two devices should have been compatible, were the correct thread, were
tapered, one was plated steel the other was Wildwood alloy. One day I may take it off and change the RD (Euroquip) hose of another make. I don't
have a lot of faith in RD stuff for other reasons. This is the second product
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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Dave Bailey
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 08:04 PM |
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Number 1 was as result of the slope of the rear panel....
Ref the PTFE tape I used this on the front calipers to seal the braided hoses to the wildwood caliber... I need to take it apart and see if either the
hose or the calipers has a taper....
The plate that needs to be seam welded is the chassis identification number.....
Thanks for the feedback... and support....
Dave B
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adithorp
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 08:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dave Bailey
Ref the PTFE tape I used this on the front calipers to seal the braided hoses to the wildwood caliber... I need to take it apart and see if either the
hose or the calipers has a taper....
Dave B
The Wilwood Powerlite caliper has a taper hole. Not sure of the thread (prob' NPT) but the Powerlites are usually supplied with an adapter that
fits and converts to standard M10 (male) brake fitting. Your flexi shouldn't be fitted direct, although the tread is close to a match and could
be screwed in.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Dave Bailey
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 09:05 PM |
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Thanks everyone....
Dave B
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Andybarbet
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| posted on 29/7/13 at 09:53 PM |
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You should be well pleased, although it was a 'fail', not a bad list of fixes.
Bet your glad you stuck with IVA'ing it with the screen on too 
Nice one.
Give a man a fish & it will feed him for a day, give him a fishing rod & you've saved a fish.
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Dave Bailey
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| posted on 2/9/13 at 04:43 PM |
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It Passed
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Dave Bailey
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| posted on 2/9/13 at 04:44 PM |
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IVA PASSED!!!
Bring on the DVLA!
[Edited on 2/9/13 by Dave Bailey]
[Edited on 2/9/13 by Dave Bailey]
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