FASTdan
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| posted on 25/2/09 at 10:20 PM |
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secondary fixings....again
Sorry to harp on about this but its the one area I really cant get my head around.
Ok, so I get that I need either castlated nuts with pins, wire or tab washers. What I dont get is where to draw the line, what needs it, what
doesnt?
The SVA manual is vague in my opinion. I'm thinking all suspension, brakes + steering fixings - but then this becomes a complete strip down -
for example, to do any of those on the wishbone pivot bolts (ie where they fasten to the body) will be a nightmare. And no production car I've
ever seen has pins in this area.
People have mentioned caliper mounting bolts...but again, all the production cars I've ever owned havent had anything? Merely threadlock - which
if allowed, why not use this on everything as its so easy - yet equally as easy to lie about?
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ReMan
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| posted on 25/2/09 at 10:24 PM |
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Do you?
None of the above on mine, only Nylock nuts where appropriate.
Passed without a mention.
And for my own peace of mind I might? have put nutlock on the calipers, though I am not convinced that is 100% nessesary
[Edited on 25/2/09 by ReMan]
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adithorp
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| posted on 25/2/09 at 10:45 PM |
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Nylocks are fine. You only need pins where thats what thet thread is designed for (ie.Transit balljoints).
My calipers are just thread locked like most/all tin-tops. Past without comment.
adrian
[Edited on 25/2/09 by adithorp]
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Chippy
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| posted on 25/2/09 at 11:51 PM |
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The only split pins on mine are on the T/R ends as they came with castelated nuts. Rest are all nylock, not a mention was made at SVA. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 26/2/09 at 12:48 AM |
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Hub nuts are the only ones that i can see a real need to have castelated nuts with pins, or tab washers on. As above, threadlock on the brake caliper
mounting bolts, propshaft bolts etc.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/2/09 at 08:16 AM |
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Avoid split pins like the plague.
Nylock nuts on everything except where a special fixing is provided. With Nylocs always make sure enough thread (3 turns) shows clear of the nut.
With Cortina upright caliper bolts spring washers are fine, however I always use a dab of blue Loctite (thats the non permanent version) as used
on production cars.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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AndyGT
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| posted on 26/2/09 at 08:49 AM |
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My local bolt suppliers/hardware shop say that usually nylock bolts are not hardened and usually only half as many threads thus inheritently weaker
than standard bolts. So from that point of view I would prefer castle-lated (excuse the spelling) with split-pins or loctited standard bolts rather
than nylocks nuts and bolts.
But the forces on most of these bolts (brake caliper, prop etc) are sideways and not on the bolt/bolt-heads so nylock should be sufficient.
[Edited on 26/2/09 by AndyGT]
nothing is impossible
everything is possible
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 26/2/09 at 09:13 AM |
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My caliper bolts are lock wired in place. Good that racing look... though Im not too sure about that dam metal head shaped thing the SVA man will
use...
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