Avoneer
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posted on 18/2/04 at 07:16 PM |
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Prop shaft speedo magnets
Anyone any good ideas on how to get my four magnets fitted equidistance apart on the prop shaft?
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Jon Ison
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posted on 18/2/04 at 07:34 PM |
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wunt have thought it was that inportant, its pulses its looking for, you will get them close enough by eye.......
make sure you use somthing VERY strong to bond them on, they do fly off, if your lucky you find them stuck to tranny tunnel somewhere...........
i found "tiger seal" was best for me, put a blob on then push magnets into it.
all IMO though...........
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Jon Ison
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posted on 18/2/04 at 07:44 PM |
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oh, measure circumference of prop, divide by four, scribe/draw line around prop n mark off.
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ady8077
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posted on 18/2/04 at 08:02 PM |
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Hi Pat
I fitted mine to the diff flange, i drilled a hole slightliy bigger than the magnet about 2mm deep in the side of the flange inbetween the fixing
bolts, then filled the hole with glue and pressed the magnets in.
I was recomended this off another forum as it gives the glue more to grip to
Hope this helps
Adrian
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craig1410
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posted on 18/2/04 at 08:55 PM |
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Hi,
If you are looking for a good adhesive, that "JB Weld" stuff seems to get good press. I got some at Halfords to fix the door handle on my
car (overkill probably) and it says that it can withstand 4000psi of force. I know, it's a bit of a blank statement without proper details but
it was the highest rated stuff in Halfords. It can be used to replace steel or alloy in cylinder heads and crankcases apparently.
It comes from the USA (something a Scot didn't invent ) so maybe Alan or some of the other guys over there will have heard of it.
Cheers,
Craig.
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Dusty
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posted on 18/2/04 at 09:52 PM |
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If you put them on the half shaft they dont have to go round so fast, always assuming you are not going live axle. Then there is less chance of them
flying off.
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Avoneer
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posted on 18/2/04 at 11:02 PM |
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Already mounted the pick-up at the front end of the tunnel near where the prop shaft meets the gearbox and was going to mount the magnets here. Maybe
easier to bond them onto the four bolts that hold the prop shaft to the diff and re-fix the pick up. That would be dead easy, especially seen as
I'm not using a live axle. Bloody hell, just answered my own question. Why didn't I think of that before.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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jmbillings
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posted on 19/2/04 at 07:59 AM |
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We just attached them using some araldite. Worked fine - we had to move them later on and they took some getting off!
If you have mounted your sender at the front like we did, make sure you have put it to one side of the prop, not above or below... all it takes is one
pot hole in the road, and its bye-bye sender!
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theconrodkid
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posted on 19/2/04 at 08:08 AM |
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i held mine on with some double sided tape,when it was working ok i just put 2 cable ties over the top,get the rubber stuff that goes in fridge
doors
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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PioneerX
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posted on 19/2/04 at 01:32 PM |
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what about bonding them to an ali plate cut to fit between the flange & the prop. I know this does not solve the problem of how you glue them one,
but it does allow you to increase the distance of the sensor from the spinning shaft. The problem with the magnetic's is that alot of the
effective flux (power of a mangnet) is lost because you have stick them on something steel. This loss in power means the sendor has to be closer which
inturn increase the risk on the prop hiting the sensor.
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Avoneer
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posted on 19/2/04 at 04:38 PM |
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Thought of that, but only got about 5mm spare between flange and tunnel sides!
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Blairm
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posted on 19/2/04 at 05:35 PM |
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Hi Guys,
Has any one tried a proximity sensor mounted on the diff above the crown wheel. I just set one up in the bench and it seems to work really well
(Drill 8.5 mm hole and Weld 8 mm half nut to diff housing). Nice tidy solution giving a large number of pulses per mile and relatively cost
effective. Guessing about 30 Pounds (rough conversion from NZ Dollar).
Cheers Blair
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Ian Pearson
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posted on 19/2/04 at 06:56 PM |
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quote:
all it takes is one pot hole in the road, and its bye-bye sender!
I made up a bracket for the sender and attached it to the diif. Used araldite to glue the magnets to the flange. Looks ok, but as I've yet to
finish the car.....??
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