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Author: Subject: IVA Questions
serieslandy

posted on 24/1/14 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
IVA Questions

I'm coming up to my IVA (not booked it yet) and I'm starting to sort things out.

Do I need washers under the roll bar bolt heads. My head is saying yes or am I just better off doing it just incase?

What do I need to do to the pedal box area to make it comply?

Pedal Box by Series1Landy, on Flickr

Will heatshrink be ok at the bottom of my mirror mounts or will a cable gland boot be better? I know I need rubber trim around the glass.

Racetech Mirror Mount by Series1Landy, on Flickr

Cheers, Steve

[Edited on 24/1/14 by serieslandy]

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loggyboy

posted on 24/1/14 at 10:06 PM Reply With Quote
Roll bar wont be assessed for long term stability so as long as its secure at the time.
Pedals look fine as is
Once mirror arm is in place I doubt the nut will be contactable, so will just need to be blunted.

[Edited on 24-1-14 by loggyboy]





Mistral Motorsport

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davidimurray

posted on 25/1/14 at 11:11 AM Reply With Quote
If your seatbelts attach to the hoop structure then it is part of a safety system. Hence you will need a method of locking the bolts, either springs washers, double nutted or nylocks.

Pedals look fine

I would use a boot on the mirror rather than heat shrink, looks better and if it generally looks good they don't dig as deep as if it looks chucked together. And I found that a bag of assorted mints also helps the process





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Dave Bailey

posted on 25/1/14 at 11:18 AM Reply With Quote
Just one observation which i was picked up on so not saying you will... my examiner did not like a bolt being used as a fulcrum. He wanted to see clevis pins where bolts were not going through a bush or sleeve so basically the brake cylinder to pedal.

Dave B

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serieslandy

posted on 25/1/14 at 01:26 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by davidimurray
If your seatbelts attach to the hoop structure then it is part of a safety system. Hence you will need a method of locking the bolts, either springs washers, double nutted or nylocks.


Was it yours that failed on this? I've done the normal of the nuts welded to the plate but added nylocks underneath as a second fixing.

quote:
Originally posted by Dave Bailey
Just one observation which i was picked up on so not saying you will... my examiner did not like a bolt being used as a fulcrum. He wanted to see clevis pins where bolts were not going through a bush or sleeve so basically the brake cylinder to pedal.

Dave B


What a pita that would be if I have to change it. Especially as that the stupidly long bolt is operating my brake light switch.

PS I wonder if anyone passes 1st time at Southampton
[Edited on 25/1/14 by serieslandy]

[Edited on 25/1/14 by serieslandy]

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Dave Bailey

posted on 25/1/14 at 01:35 PM Reply With Quote
They were very fair... I do know someone who passed first time...

Dave B

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davidimurray

posted on 25/1/14 at 02:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by serieslandy
quote:
Originally posted by davidimurray
If your seatbelts attach to the hoop structure then it is part of a safety system. Hence you will need a method of locking the bolts, either springs washers, double nutted or nylocks.


Was it yours that failed on this? I've done the normal of the nuts welded to the plate but added nylocks underneath as a second fixing.



No, I managed to pass first time, lol must stop being so smug

He asked me to remove a plastic bolt cover to check for spring washers, then asked me how the bolts were secured, I explained bolts welded into the frame but he said they need to be locked. He popped out for a smoke and let me fit 8 nylocks while the car was on the ramp. That was the only change he asked me to make to the car.





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chrism

posted on 25/1/14 at 02:29 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by serieslandy
quote:
Originally posted by Dave Bailey
Just one observation which i was picked up on so not saying you will... my examiner did not like a bolt being used as a fulcrum. He wanted to see clevis pins where bolts were not going through a bush or sleeve so basically the brake cylinder to pedal.

Dave B


What a pita that would be if I have to change it. Especially as that the stupidly long bolt is operating my brake light switch.




Quick fix for this would be to drill the hole in the pedal larger and use a tophat bush so you can retain the long bolt.





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A little hard work never killed anyone, but why take the risk!
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40inches

posted on 25/1/14 at 05:44 PM Reply With Quote
Non slip tape on the accelerator isn't necessary, you may even find it difficult to press the accelerator smoothly.






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