leew2
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| posted on 28/4/16 at 08:40 PM |
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Does welding need to be coded?
I seem to remember someone telling me a few years ago that any welding on any vehicle subject to an MOT test must be "coded".
Is this correct?
The only references I can find to welding in the MSVA manual is this:
"Welding should appear neat and of good quality; whilst it is
impossible to judge the quality of a weld just by looking at it, messy
welding is rarely strong welding. "
Which makes no reference to having to be coded.
I am confident in my welding ability, having destructively tested samples of my welding and having scratch built soapbox cars and pedal cycles and
raced them at 70mph+
I can only TIG weld, I tried MIG but being a bit of a perfectionist, could not get welds I was happy with using the MIG so I sold my MIG.
I have a City and Guilds qualification if that makes any difference.
many thanks, lee.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 28/4/16 at 09:13 PM |
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Nope, mot wont specifically check welding, only the structure of the car, so as long as looks ok, they wont query. Mot has very limited scope for
investigating past what is merely visible or pokeable..
Mistral Motorsport
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perksy
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| posted on 28/4/16 at 09:27 PM |
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If it lookslike pigeon sh"t it won't/shouldn't pass
Nor should it to be fair....
Remember having a chat with an MOT tester and he said when it comes to kit cars he always looked at the standard of finish to the car
If it was presented 'Tatty' he always ensured he had a GOOD look at everything..
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snakebelly
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| posted on 29/4/16 at 06:40 AM |
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As already said any weld repairs are a visual inspection only.
For interest welding jobs aren't coded the welder themselves are.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 29/4/16 at 06:59 AM |
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Welding can fail an MOT test as an inadequate repair but that normally means the repair "patch" isn't welded 100% around its
circumference. If the "sharp" end of the corrosion test tool can be inserted under the welded section at any point and lift the repair
then it should fail .
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SJ
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| posted on 29/4/16 at 07:44 AM |
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Even the crapiest welding, with a bit of grinding and painting, will pass most MOT testers standards.
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nick205
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| posted on 29/4/16 at 08:56 AM |
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Plenty of non coded welders on here have scratch built their own chassis. Some using pre-cut kits of tube and some cutting their own tube. My
understanding is that you do not need to be coded to do this and get a car through IVA and registered. From my experience you can usually tell good
and bad welding from the appearance of it - poor quality welding usually looks messy and if the welding is poor the after weld tidy up usually
isn't that much better.
Bottom line in my view is that you will have to be in it and drive it so how confident are you in your own welding ability.
Practice, practice and practice some more - practice helps you get better.
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dinosaurjuice
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| posted on 29/4/16 at 09:58 AM |
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filler and paint makes me the welder I aint 
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nick205
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| posted on 29/4/16 at 10:01 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dinosaurjuice
filler and paint makes me the welder I aint
I have seen some bicycle frames with welded, filled and painted tube joins. The end result is what looks a well made smooth frame, but the weld
itself could be less than optimum. That said good bicycle frames are usually well made so the welds are most likely OK.
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907
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| posted on 29/4/16 at 10:23 AM |
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I can see the day coming when some sort of qualification will be needed to weld cars.
Not coded as thats way over the top, but some sort of day course no doubt.
Think of running a bit of wire. Must have part P.
Bit of copper to the gas cooker. Must be Corgi reg.
I feel a bit like Mr "Dooomed" from Dads Army.
Still, all will be well after Brexit.
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SJ
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| posted on 29/4/16 at 11:34 AM |
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Part P is a right scam. Some numpty who has done a 2 week course can sign work off but a time served sparky without part p can't. It's all
about making money for the scheme operators.
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snakebelly
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| posted on 29/4/16 at 11:47 AM |
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[Edited on 29/4/16 by snakebelly]
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locost7-online.com
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| posted on 2/5/16 at 10:17 AM |
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I work for a structural steel company, we only been the welder to be coded if the weld is to EU class 2 standard on structural stuff, any of the Non
structural metalwork it doesn't matter, for welding of things like my chassis, being coded makes no difference ( some of our coded welders weld
quality is up to the coded standard but still not as good as some of our other time served welders without
Locost Xflow 150bhp injected! Sold :-(
Facebook blog https://www.facebook.com/Johns-Tiger-Avon-Build-814223212056368/
PLEASE NOTE THIS MEMBER IS NOT A TRADER.
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 2/5/16 at 11:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
Think of running a bit of wire. Must have part P.
Bit of copper to the gas cooker. Must be Corgi reg.
Funnily enough, the regulations do require part P or council inspection (for any non-exempt work), but the legislation for gas is looser. An installer
must be Gas-safe registered (Corgi is long gone) where working for payment, but for unpaid work (such as in your own house), you just have to be
"competent" - presumably if your house later explodes or you suffocate due to CO, you were not competent!
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907
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| posted on 2/5/16 at 01:04 PM |
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I did run pipes from outside Calor cylinders to a coal effect fire in my living room, and to the range cooker in the kitchen.
Over the years I've added to the electrics, ring in the garage, shower in the bathroom etc. I live in a rented house.
Landlord hasn't even got it insured as far as I know.
I rewired my sons 2 up 2 down. The insulation on the wires when he bought it would crumble at a touch.
Called out the electricity board to inspect when I'd finished and all they tested was the earth to a stake by the front door.
What really gets me is when someone on here asks a Q , how do you fit a whatsit ?
The LB members go berswick. Part P this and part P that! Someone will die! If you have to ask you shouldn't do it, etc etc.
And yet if someone says, I've never welded but am thinking of buying a Shat 80 MIG and building a chassis, the replies will be,
Yah, that's alright, just watch a vid and practice for a half hour; you'll be OK.
Double standards possibly ?
Paul G
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 2/5/16 at 09:10 PM |
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When I bought my house, one of the first things I did was re-wire, including a new consumer unit - connected very carefully, live.
A few months later the meter reader noticed the new CU and said he'd get someone to upgrade the main fuse (from 60A to 100A). By pure chance I
had a day off work a few weeks later when there was a knock at the door. In came two guys, one of whom donned rubber gloves, hit the cast-iron fusebox
with a lump-hammer, removed the remaining chunks, slotted on a new "plastic" one, connected it up, epoxy puttied the cable entries and
left!
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leew2
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| posted on 7/5/16 at 01:54 PM |
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If you build your own chassis, it still needs to pass an inspection (IVA or MSVA), Not much difference to doing your own house wiring really in that
also technically needs inspecting and signing off.
quote:
Originally posted by 907
I did run pipes from outside Calor cylinders to a coal effect fire in my living room, and to the range cooker in the kitchen.
Over the years I've added to the electrics, ring in the garage, shower in the bathroom etc. I live in a rented house.
Landlord hasn't even got it insured as far as I know.
I rewired my sons 2 up 2 down. The insulation on the wires when he bought it would crumble at a touch.
Called out the electricity board to inspect when I'd finished and all they tested was the earth to a stake by the front door.
What really gets me is when someone on here asks a Q , how do you fit a whatsit ?
The LB members go berswick. Part P this and part P that! Someone will die! If you have to ask you shouldn't do it, etc etc.
And yet if someone says, I've never welded but am thinking of buying a Shat 80 MIG and building a chassis, the replies will be,
Yah, that's alright, just watch a vid and practice for a half hour; you'll be OK.
Double standards possibly ?
Paul G
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