Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 31/3/21 at 05:17 PM |
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IVA - a Second Fail and a First Pass!
Well, third time lucky!
I went in for my second test thinking I'd addressed everything from my first fail
(http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/29/viewthread.php?tid=217498); I was wrong 
02B - Metered Emissions. I got sent a baseline map off sdh2903 (very gratefully recieved!) and spent ages remapping the car, specifically the RPM at
which emissions were monitored, and it passed by the skin of its teeth!
09C: Park Brake Control. Didn't solve this the second time round and it failed. During prep for the third attempt I finally realised the top of
the tunnel trim was catching at the rear of the lever - I cut it back and I sorted the issue!
09D: Hydraulic Systems. Label on ordered and fitted - sorted.
09E: Brake Performance. Failed on the second time; I readjusted the calipers and fitted a restrictor to the rear lines to stop them becoming too good
- a biiig mistake! It failed on the second test as overall brake efficiency wasn't high enough. For the third time I removed the restrictor,
thoroughly bled the system, fitted some greenstuff pads to the rear and chocked up the rear of the car so I could spin the wheels and bed them in
slightly. That almost worked too well! It was getting borderline whether I'd need the restrictor again 
12: Interior Fittings. 3D printed some edging with the required radius and attached it to the underside of the dash; not pretty but it worked!
16: Exterior Projections. For the second test I used some split conduit held in place by cable ties on the track rod locknuts and got failed on it, as
it didn't look professional enough. For the third test I bought some thinwall PVC tubing to slide over them, then some adhesive lined heatshrink
over the top of that. It's a pain to remove, but it passed this time.
25: Headlamps. Re-aimed them, still didn't get it quite right but luckily the tester helped me out with that in the end.
31: Seat Belts. I replaced the 4-point Luke items with some more conventional latch types, and that passed fine.
33: Identification of Controls. Labelled the starter button like I should have before 
44: Masses and Dimensions. Added 50kg to the rear; glad I didn't put the masses on the makers plates!
General Construction.
I went around and tightened/swapped out the fixings as required. Tried to solve the oil leak with a new sump gasket, and it was fine until two days
before the test when it started leaking again. Slathered it in silicon- it still leaks very slightly, but held off long enough for the test!
On the third test it got through - I am very, very relieved! Of course the car started making some horrendous rattling/tappety noises from the engine
just before the test, as it couldn't all go my way But luckily it passed and I got it home OK. Now to figure out the rattle...
I have to say though, the short amount I've driven it... IT'S AWESOME!!! Well worth the eight years of time I've put into it 
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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magpies
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 posted on 31/3/21 at 05:55 PM |
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Well done Badger
Is the oil pressure ok?
What inlet are you using?
Mick (AJ30 TVR S1)
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roadrunner
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| posted on 31/3/21 at 06:53 PM |
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Congrats Badger.
Enjoy the driving.
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 31/3/21 at 07:19 PM |
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Cheers guys
Oil PX light turns on and off, unfortunately that's about my only reference at this point. My mate says something similar happens with Skylines
when their exhaust gasket blows, definitely worth a check if nothing else!
Sorry, forgot to say - it's on the ST200 inlet at the moment.
[Edited on 31/3/21 by Badger_McLetcher]
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 31/3/21 at 08:26 PM |
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Well done Badger - it's brilliant when you finally get there and worth every effort you put into it
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big_wasa
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| posted on 31/3/21 at 08:29 PM |
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Well done.
There is some info some where that says the cam caps or somthing come loose.
https://youtu.be/V5azm1NS2_M
[Edited on 31/3/21 by big_wasa]
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40inches
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| posted on 31/3/21 at 09:35 PM |
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Regarding the cam rattle, mine did that to the extent that I took it to the local JLR franchise, they said it was most likely
the VVT actuator on the cam pulley, but not to worry as a lot of Jags with the AJ30 did it but the drivers couldn't hear it in the car
I sort of fixed it when I changed the VVT actuation method in the Megasquirt software to switch on at 1800 RPM without reference to the TPS position.
Once the valve has switched on, by blipping the throttle to 2000RPM the rattle suddenly stops and doesn't come back, until the oil drains out
overnight
[Edited on 31-3-21 by 40inches]
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 31/3/21 at 09:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Well done.
There is some info some where that says the cam caps or somthing come loose.
https://youtu.be/V5azm1NS2_M
[Edited on 31/3/21 by big_wasa]
Yeaaaaahhh that sounds familiar Thanks for the link though!
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 31/3/21 at 09:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Regarding the cam rattle, mine did that to the extent that I took it to the local JLR franchise, they said it was most likely
the VVT actuator on the cam pulley, but not to worry as a lot of Jags with the AJ30 did it but the drivers couldn't hear it in the car
I sort of fixed it when I changed the VVT actuation method in the Megasquirt software to switch on at 1800 RPM without reference to the TPS position.
Once the valve has switched on, by blipping the throttle to 2000RPM the rattle suddenly stops and doesn't come back, until the oil drains out
overnight
[Edited on 31-3-21 by 40inches]
It's always been a bit of a tappety sounding engine tbh, but this is significantly louder unfortunately. I feel an investigation session coming
on Monday (my next free day!).
[Edited on 31/3/21 by Badger_McLetcher]
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 31/3/21 at 09:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Regarding the cam rattle, mine did that to the extent that I took it to the local JLR franchise, they said it was most likely
the VVT actuator on the cam pulley, but not to worry as a lot of Jags with the AJ30 did it but the drivers couldn't hear it in the car
I sort of fixed it when I changed the VVT actuation method in the Megasquirt software to switch on at 1800 RPM without reference to the TPS position.
Once the valve has switched on, by blipping the throttle to 2000RPM the rattle suddenly stops and doesn't come back, until the oil drains out
overnight
[Edited on 31-3-21 by 40inches]
I had something similar. The oil screen mesh on the vvt solenoid had disintegrated and jammed the solenoid. Caused some very odd behaviour and noises.
Screens now removed from both solenoids
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harmchar
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| posted on 1/4/21 at 12:43 PM |
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Well done on the pass. Must be a relief.
Can you shed more light on the below.
09D: Hydraulic Systems. Label on ordered and fitted - sorted
What label are they on about now?
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 1/4/21 at 09:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by harmchar
Well done on the pass. Must be a relief.
Can you shed more light on the below.
09D: Hydraulic Systems. Label on ordered and fitted - sorted
What label are they on about now?
No worries - it's this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IVA-Brake-Fluid-ID-Sticker-Label-Kitcar-Kit-Car-Locost/222792047383?hash=item33df70db17:g:a~QAAOSwQItT7Pay
I just stuck it to the bulkhead next to the master cylinder.
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 13/4/21 at 01:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Regarding the cam rattle, mine did that to the extent that I took it to the local JLR franchise, they said it was most likely
the VVT actuator on the cam pulley, but not to worry as a lot of Jags with the AJ30 did it but the drivers couldn't hear it in the car
I sort of fixed it when I changed the VVT actuation method in the Megasquirt software to switch on at 1800 RPM without reference to the TPS position.
Once the valve has switched on, by blipping the throttle to 2000RPM the rattle suddenly stops and doesn't come back, until the oil drains out
overnight
[Edited on 31-3-21 by 40inches]
I had something similar. The oil screen mesh on the vvt solenoid had disintegrated and jammed the solenoid. Caused some very odd behaviour and noises.
Screens now removed from both solenoids
I ran the car a bit to try to figure it out the other weekend, and unfortunately playing around with the VVT didn't make a difference. Went
around with a screwdriver to the ear, but couldn't really make out where it was coming from. Checked the exhausts for leaks, but that was fine
as well.
I've had the rocker covers off now - bit of a mixed bag. Cams were still secure, so that's a definitely relief! The oil screen on one of
the VVT solenoids had disintegrated as well, but that didn't seem to be the source of the noise unfortunately. Timing chain seems fine, had a
look down the bores with a borescope and they seem OK.
Since I've not found the source, I'm beginning to think a rebuild is in order. The engine has to come out to be stripped anyways, as I
won't be happy until I can find the source of the noise - as I was removing the prop bolts I found the rear seal on the transmission also seems
to have developed a leak, so that needs attention too!
At least it held on long enough to do the IVA!
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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magpies
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| posted on 13/4/21 at 04:03 PM |
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Hi Badger
on the pistonheads TVR S forum one of the chaps Blue30 has had problems with his AJ30 and has run a couple of bearings while being set up on Joolz
rolling road.
Have a read of this - halfway down page 20 dated Jan31
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=11&t=1636478&i=380
He has added this to our fb page..... Bulletproof AJV6...
As you guys are aware of my (self inflicted) engine oil starvation issue which caused a couple of my big ends to partially break up.
Now I have completed the mechanical rebuild, I think I am in a position in to give my thoughts on the bottom end longevity of these engines.
In essence, with a good service/oil change regime these engines should last a long time, a very long time, as it's a simple, robust, and
reliable layout. So if your engine is from a 100k miles plus car, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
The only slightly negative point to note is, the cost and availability of internal engine parts.
£12 each for a generally out of stock big end bolt is extortionate. The same Ford badged item in the USA is less than 2usd.
So, in short, my repair has cost me at least £200. If the damage had been any worse, I would have seriously considered buying a full replacement used
engine. Currently there are plenty available for between £200 - £500.
As you know reasonable whole cars can been bought for £800 - £1500, mileage & condition dependant.
It'll be a week or so before I turn the Ign key to see if all is good with my engine now, as I want to do some other jobs whilst I'm in
the mood...
By the way, by the end of the year there should be 8 TVR S's converted to Jag engines
[Edited on 13/4/21 by magpies]
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 13/4/21 at 09:34 PM |
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Hmmm, that's an interesting point. I'm using an X-type sump and pickup; they seemed to marry up fine (as you'd expect), but now
I'm wondering if that might have caused an issue. Just priced up the components for a full rebuild; £1150 so far and still missing a couple of
bits! The head bolts are about £192 on their own If I can lower the bill I'll be a very happy man.
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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magpies
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| posted on 13/4/21 at 09:51 PM |
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Mine is using the X type sump and is ok after near 2000 miles.
The parts seem to be MUCH cheaper in the USA and I have a contact who will forward stuff to the UK
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 14/4/21 at 02:03 PM |
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Hah, probably not that then! I may have a poke around on the US prices - I've a couple of contacts over there who may be able to send stuff on
to me. Was hoping I may find Duratec items a bit cheaper as well.
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 13/5/21 at 07:24 AM |
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Just to bottom this out - the engine spun the big end bearing on No4, which looks likes it's knackered the crank. I bought a secondhand engine
as a donor for the crank, but on collection it looks to be in really good nick so may just bung that one in!
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 13/5/21 at 03:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Badger_McLetcher
Hmmm, that's an interesting point. I'm using an X-type sump and pickup; they seemed to marry up fine (as you'd expect), but now
I'm wondering if that might have caused an issue. Just priced up the components for a full rebuild; £1150 so far and still missing a couple of
bits! The head bolts are about £192 on their own If I can lower the bill I'll be a very happy man.
That ridiculous, I've just bought head gaskets,sump gasket,cam cover gaskets and headbolts for under £160 delivered from USA!
Felpro stuff too which is great quality.
I use RockAuto
Headbolts are in offer atm £12.67 per head!
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,2000,s-type,3.0l+v6,1363294,engine,cylinder+head+bolt,5308
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 13/5/21 at 09:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by Badger_McLetcher
Hmmm, that's an interesting point. I'm using an X-type sump and pickup; they seemed to marry up fine (as you'd expect), but now
I'm wondering if that might have caused an issue. Just priced up the components for a full rebuild; £1150 so far and still missing a couple of
bits! The head bolts are about £192 on their own If I can lower the bill I'll be a very happy man.
That ridiculous, I've just bought head gaskets,sump gasket,cam cover gaskets and headbolts for under £160 delivered from USA!
Felpro stuff too which is great quality.
I use RockAuto
Headbolts are in offer atm £12.67 per head!
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,2000,s-type,3.0l+v6,1363294,engine,cylinder+head+bolt,5308
WOW that's a bit of a drop! My current thinking is that I'll drop the new engine in to get it going again - had a call from the DVLA
earlier and hopefully my reg will be coming through soon. That'll allow me to drive it and I can take a bit of time rebuilding the old engine.
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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drummerbins
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| posted on 7/6/21 at 11:22 AM |
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repeaters on the front wheel arch
Hi, loved the photo of your car, have I got the dates wrong and this is old, but I thought for the IVA you needed repeaters in the front cycle
wings!
Thanks
Bins
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 7/6/21 at 11:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by drummerbins
Hi, loved the photo of your car, have I got the dates wrong and this is old, but I thought for the IVA you needed repeaters in the front cycle
wings!
Thanks
Bins
the side repeaters have to be within 2.6 metres of the front of the car, you can see them on the rear arch
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CosKev3
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| posted on 7/6/21 at 02:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by drummerbins
Hi, loved the photo of your car, have I got the dates wrong and this is old, but I thought for the IVA you needed repeaters in the front cycle
wings!
Thanks
Bins
As long as they meet the angles of vision requirements and as above are 2600mm from the front maximum you can put them where you want
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 9/6/21 at 06:49 AM |
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Apologies for the late reply - as gremlin1234 and CosKev3 have said they just need to be a certain distance from the front and height from the ground,
with the appropriate angles of visibility.
I originally had them mounted directly in the wings, but turns out I'd mis-measured and didn't quite meet the requirements. To avoid
having to rewire it I printed the pods, which allowed me to shufty the repeaters forwards about 10cm whilst not positioning them much lower. Even so
they're stil only just OK. On the day the inspector measured them and said "Someone's read the manual"
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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