G13BLocost
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| posted on 14/7/21 at 08:36 PM |
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IVA Front Brake Lines
'Evening All,
I am a stones throw from being ready for IVA and I had planned to replace my front brake lines with something more westfieldy or caterhamy but thought
I would check with you lot first.
Will this pass or fail IVA?
Sorry for the terrible picture.
I have ran the lines like this for years with no issues but I wonder if running the brake lines attached to the wishbone would count as it clashing
and therefore fail IVA? How about the fact the line kind of rubs the wishbone at the outer end? Would I get away with replacing the loom tape with
heat shrink, as that is something a bit more permanent?
Cheers!
Josh
p.s. Here she is in all her glory:
[Edited on 14/7/21 by G13BLocost]
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adithorp
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| posted on 14/7/21 at 10:53 PM |
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I'm not sure loom tape would be considered tough enough to prevent chafing. I'd use sections of rubber hose, split lengthwise. I know
they're braided but the inspector might still want something; kind of depends on the manual wording I guess.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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obfripper
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| posted on 14/7/21 at 11:02 PM |
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Nice shot of Smeatharpe, always ready to rain, and i guess it's still as bumpy as ever!
They may not like the loom tape as a protection method as it is not a permanent component and heatshrink may be considered too thin at a point of
contact. A soft plastic or rubber sleeve over that area would be considered permanent protection (like the rubber boots on a lot of 4x4 front brake
hoses), spiral wrap is an option if it doesn't move about in use, or something 3d printed to clip/cable tie over the hose with a rubber pad on
the wishbone side.
There are quite a few oe brake hoses that use the above/similar methods to avoid fouling, they should be acceptable for iva.
If you want to protect the paint, a wrap of ptfe film/helicopter tape on the wishbone will suffice and should last a long time.
You also need to consider the hose position throughout the combined full steering and suspension operating range, as there may be points where there
is unforseen contact.
Dave
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G13BLocost
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| posted on 15/7/21 at 07:48 AM |
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That is great feedback, thank you!
Yeah spiral wrap makes sense, and I can heat shrink it at either end to stop is moving axially. I have moved the steering in the extreme in both
directions and the current lines clear everything. I'll check again once they are covered.
Yep, you caught me! Smeatharpe  Its damn bumpy but it was a real privilege to have so much space to test on.
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James
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| posted on 15/7/21 at 08:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by G13BLocost
I have moved the steering in the extreme in both directions and the current lines clear everything. I'll check again once they are covered.
Nice looking car.
When you do that test, make sure you test it at full bump and droop as well.
cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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adithorp
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| posted on 15/7/21 at 08:45 AM |
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As ^ be sure to check it clears everything when the front is jacked up as well as on the ground... the testers will.
Full bump isn't easy to simulate so as long as it looks like it'll clear you'll be OK
Spiral wrap will be OK and the heat shirk will finish it off well. I think little things like that show the tester you've thought about it and
scores a bit of credit.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 15/7/21 at 09:22 AM |
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Mine were similar to yours but IVA inspector wanted split rubber pipe covering and went and had a cup of tea while I popped to the local motor factors
and got some and fitted it on the braided line - first time pass afterwards!
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jps
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| posted on 15/7/21 at 10:11 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Full bump isn't easy to simulate so as long as it looks like it'll clear you'll be OK
I've been checking clearance of brake lines in bump by:
1- Sticking a 6" wooden block under the chassis, so I can get a jack under the hub/wheel
2 - Winding the shock collar down as far as possible (which adds about 2" of compression to the shock), so the shock can compress as much as
possible.
3 - Jacking from under the hub/wheel to try out the full range of movement
Admittedly it still does not go all the way to the bump stop - but I think it gives reassurance this way.
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adithorp
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| posted on 15/7/21 at 07:18 PM |
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Testers won't do that though so,as long,as,it looks like it'll clear you'll be OK.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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G13BLocost
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| posted on 15/7/21 at 08:58 PM |
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Parts on order! Thanks guys
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adamswifty
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| posted on 16/7/21 at 08:12 AM |
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I've just gone through IVA, I'd put a cover (sleeving) over the nuts.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 16/7/21 at 02:30 PM |
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Interesting thread. I wanted to do a similar thing with mine but the view was that it shouldn't be attached to the wishbone...
Admittedly in my photo I had just tie wrapped them in place to show positioning, but I'm tempted to follow your lead with fixings, rubber
sleeves and ties.
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