NS Dev
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| posted on 14/5/06 at 03:02 PM |
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Bias bar locking idea, any good??
Got an idea for locking the bias bar, opinions please....
I for one don't like the idea of drilling and roll pinning the bar right at a stressed point, never mind the problem of adjusting it in the
future.
I had an idea that should fit in the letter of the law of the sva manual.
If I use a very deep tubular locknut on the "long" side of the threaded bar, and make a very deep slot in it like a pair of very deep
castellations, can I then drill and roll pin the long side of the bar well away from the clevis and have the rollpin through the slot in the nut?
This will lock the locknut, whilst allowing adjustment 1/2 turn at a time by removal of the rollpin.
When fitted with normal rollpins the bar is adjustable by removing the pin so that so no different, but in this case i can put the pin back with the
locknut in various positions to allow fine tuning at SVA????
whaddya think?
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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nitram38
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| posted on 14/5/06 at 03:28 PM |
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The bar can still be adjustable as long as it cannot be adjusted beyond it's worse case senario.
In other words, it always has to lock the front wheels before the rears.
I have roll pinned a nut either end of the threaded rod and used two half nuts as lock nuts.
My bias can still be adjusted with spanners but not beyond the point at which the rears would lock first.
You will need to work out at what point to drill the nut on the longest thread side.
The sva want to see a permenant fixing like a roll pin or weld to prevent 'unsafe' tampering.
You also cannot be able to adjust the bias from the drivers position. In otherwords, no cable adjusters allowed.
[Edited on 14/5/2006 by nitram38]
[Edited on 14/5/2006 by nitram38]
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/5/06 at 06:58 PM |
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What a total PITA. Can you set it to a point which locks the fronts before the rears and thats it or do you actually have to find the point at which
the bias shifts.
Not sure if that makes much sense but it strikes me as being a right git to do. Im not looking forward to getting into the footwell to drill and pin
it 
Rgds
Rich
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nitram38
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| posted on 14/5/06 at 07:06 PM |
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I adjusted mine first until it felt right. I did this by jacking the car up and getting someone to turn the wheels while I operated the brakes.
Once it was manually set, I drove the car on the worst setting (most towards the rear) and checked that the fronts still locked befor the rears.
Once I was happy, I took the bar out and drilled it.
I set it to the furthest forward setting and tried it again.
I think after all that work, that the most a race car would alter the bias to the rear is only 1-2 turns.
Good luck!
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wilkingj
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| posted on 14/5/06 at 09:50 PM |
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Roll Pin is a SVA requirement. I just failed on that on Tuesday.
As Nitram says.. find the extremes that still meet the regs and work from there.
i suppose it depends how much you want to use it on the track / road.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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irvined
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| posted on 15/5/06 at 10:36 AM |
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Mine passed with a nut and bolt through each lock nut.
I'd have prefered some sort of castle nut, and im a bit nervous about having a hole in my bias bar.
http://irvined.blogspot.com
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nitram38
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| posted on 15/5/06 at 03:16 PM |
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It doesn't matter at the ends of the bar.
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